Could anyone here tell me how to wire a fuse panel? I was under the impression that the heavy gauge cable from the battery/isolator for aux system would run into a fuse panel/circuit breaker and then come out in smaller wires from each fuse to each respective appliance (12V & 120V). But from the pictures and posts im seeing it seems like the wire runs come in via small gauge wire and continue with the same gauge and im confused about where the heavy gauge wire from the battery/isolator turns into a bunch of smaller ones. Sorry to be so ignorant here, we are in a sort of desperate attempt to wire our campervan and am trying to learn everything i can in a short period of time. Any info is greatly appreciated!:REExeSquatsHL1:
Wiring Fuse panel/circuit breaker?
- Thread starter Tress
- Start date
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
What you are seeing is two different ways of handling the installation of fuses. Generally it is preferrable to do as you are wishing to do. That is, one large gauge supply wire into a fuse block with the individual circuit wires coming out of the fuse block. Sometimes things happen and force one into using a fuse in the middle of the wire. Not ideal, but much better than no fuse at all.
Most fuse blocks have some way to "gang" the supply side of the fuses together. In some cases you have to add a parts or parts, in other cases that is the way the fuse block comes and there is nothing you need to do.
HTH
Most fuse blocks have some way to "gang" the supply side of the fuses together. In some cases you have to add a parts or parts, in other cases that is the way the fuse block comes and there is nothing you need to do.
HTH
UK4X4
Expedition Leader
for example.
4 off 10 amp fuse/switches on a panel..
Means the supply wire should be minimumly capable of supplying 40amps....the exiting wires for each sub system should be rated at least at the fused rating 10 amps each
I would place a 40 amp fuse right next to the battery, protecting everything down stream, however in order to make things safer, measure the current with all toys operating at their max level and fuse accordingly........melting wires and the insuing fire will not make you a happy chappy, I'd rather change a fuse than put out fires
now normally you won't find 4 items that exactly require 10 amps each....
so choose the supply wire for what the items require.....most electrical issues are caused by people short cutting on their installations.
twisting wires together and covering with tape...is a trail fix...not an installation method.
grommet not only means a famous film star dog....but a safe way of routing cables through panels
film star dog
required item
the 10cent china made crimp connectors ....does what the price says on the label
get decent ones from summit racing
4 off 10 amp fuse/switches on a panel..
Means the supply wire should be minimumly capable of supplying 40amps....the exiting wires for each sub system should be rated at least at the fused rating 10 amps each
I would place a 40 amp fuse right next to the battery, protecting everything down stream, however in order to make things safer, measure the current with all toys operating at their max level and fuse accordingly........melting wires and the insuing fire will not make you a happy chappy, I'd rather change a fuse than put out fires
now normally you won't find 4 items that exactly require 10 amps each....
so choose the supply wire for what the items require.....most electrical issues are caused by people short cutting on their installations.
twisting wires together and covering with tape...is a trail fix...not an installation method.
grommet not only means a famous film star dog....but a safe way of routing cables through panels
film star dog
required item
the 10cent china made crimp connectors ....does what the price says on the label
get decent ones from summit racing
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I have already been scoping out grommets from work, i work at a low voltage company so we do a lot of pulling wires. As for the crimps im planning to buy all the wires and connectors ill need and then bring them to someone who is good at crimping and has the right tools then plan to do the installation myself. But thanks guys, i was getting extremely confused by so much of what im reading that i wasn't real confident i have the slightest chance of doing this myself, but it sounds like im on the right track. Has anyone any suggestions about where to get most of this stuff, especially fuse panels. Thanks again Abody :victory:
UK4X4
Expedition Leader
well the 6 channel switch panel with resetable breakers, rubber toggle switchs and leds...I have sat next to my desk....for my trailer
was from bass pro shops...under $ 50
The only thing I don't like is the push on connectors are'nt sleeved
so I'll be shrink wrap covering them.
12volt dude or something similar does reportedly good stuff, maybe some one will post a link..
was from bass pro shops...under $ 50
The only thing I don't like is the push on connectors are'nt sleeved
so I'll be shrink wrap covering them.
12volt dude or something similar does reportedly good stuff, maybe some one will post a link..
Traindriver
New member
I recently had to install a stand alone fuel pump relay and switch on my 85 Toyota 4x4. And found that it is better to use soldered on connectors and than use heat shrink to cover them. They don't come loose and you don't ahve a crimped connnection subject to corrosion in the future. From my aircraft mechanic days I had a avionics manager that used to say " a crimped connection is a crap connection, solder the damn thing, that way they won't have to try and fix it at 30k feet."
travel dodge
Adventurer
search for the thread Electrical (better crimps?)
It has lots of good info on where to get wiring supplies and which ones to use. I am still gathering what I will need for a future project and Waytec seems to have the best of everything at good prices.
It has lots of good info on where to get wiring supplies and which ones to use. I am still gathering what I will need for a future project and Waytec seems to have the best of everything at good prices.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
I was recently looking at putting together a Weather Pack parts box and set up a spreadsheet to compare prices. Waytek had slightly better unit prices, but also has odd minimum purchase quantities. Del City had minimum quantities of 1 for every item. Net result was that Del City was less, by a lot ($80 vs. $135), for the quantities I want.
As to crimp or solder or crimp then solder, a lot has been discussed already about that. Suggest searching out those threads.
As to crimp or solder or crimp then solder, a lot has been discussed already about that. Suggest searching out those threads.
Fantastic, thanks agin:chowtime: How do i know which type of fuse panel im getting? I want the one where I can run the main battery power right to the panel and then come out with smaller wires for each outlet/appliance. Ill look into the solder vs crimp posts, I would imagine the soldering would be easier but im very new to all of this. This site is great! Man i wish i had found you all long before i had started the conversion, cant wait around though ya know. Later:costumed-smiley-007
Oh one other question, how do you wire for 120V? I mean i know i have to go through an inverter which i have on order but how do i get to it? Would i have to go straight from the isolator through a circuit breaker? Or would i come out of the fuse panel then into the inverter with some lighter gauge wire? Or would i come out of the fuse panel with heavier gauge wire and into the inverter? Or none of the above, thanks agin
:REOutIceFishing:
:REOutIceFishing:
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
Depending on the power consumed by the inverter it might be possible to wire it to the fuse block, but I rather doubt it. The higher power inverters need to pull directly from the battery(ies) with a dedicated wire to both the plus and the minus battery posts. If the inverter is physically close to the battery(ies) then no fuse between them is needed. However, if there is more than a foot or so of wire is between them then it's time to start thinking about a fuse at the battery(ies). Some systems want a fuse in both wires. This protects the devise from voltage spikes and accidental reverse polarity.
That is my preferred method of wiring, pull a single high current wire off the battery(ies) and take it to a large amperage fuse or breaker. Then attach the various feed wires (even those going to a fuse block) to the other fuse/breaker terminal.
Have to look at fuse/breaker location as "Exposure". In a perfect world the fuse or breaker would be built into the battery(ies) and then you'd have no wires that could short to ground that weren't protected.
That's not realistic to do, but it is why most OE's use Fuseable Links right at the battery. Fuseable Links are a pain to field service. I don't even consider them a viable option, but it illustrates how the OE's think about this sort of thing.
That is my preferred method of wiring, pull a single high current wire off the battery(ies) and take it to a large amperage fuse or breaker. Then attach the various feed wires (even those going to a fuse block) to the other fuse/breaker terminal.
Have to look at fuse/breaker location as "Exposure". In a perfect world the fuse or breaker would be built into the battery(ies) and then you'd have no wires that could short to ground that weren't protected.
That's not realistic to do, but it is why most OE's use Fuseable Links right at the battery. Fuseable Links are a pain to field service. I don't even consider them a viable option, but it illustrates how the OE's think about this sort of thing.
It all comes down to inverter size. I have a 2k inverter in our 5th wheel. It is 2ga wire and is supposed to be a run of no longer than 4ft from the battery. We have a couple of smaller inverters that I use in different situation. Our 300 watt is capable of running off of 8ga wire anywhere. the 1000 watt has a run of 10ft from the battery of 6ga wire and has survived that situation for several years.
Where are you guys located?
Where are you guys located?
DC area, Falls Church to be precise. We also are buying a Tripplite 2k Inverter and plan to have it pretty close to the batteries, so it sounds to me like we are in decent shape. I do have another question though, how do you run so many wires to the battery, doesn't the terminal pile up with connectors?:REOutArchery02: