Wiring/grommets

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

I'm starting to think through the wiring on my trailer project (build thread in my signature below). I'll be using a 7-round pigtail, and plan(ed) on buying pre-sheathed 7-round wiring once I know exactly how long I need it. I won't have 12V power in the nose box initially, but want to eventually.

I have a few questions, though...

1. I'd like to install LED running lights on the sides of the trailer. Given the use of running lights (vs. just taillights), it sounds like I'd want to ditch the pre-sheathed by-the-foot wiring, and run a "Y" off the tongue, and down the inside of both frame rails. For the folks using running lights, can you confirm this is what you did?
2. What are you using for grommets? I found these mil-spec grommets on McMaster-Carr, and thought they'd do the trick.
   
   
3. Should the grommets seal out water where the wiring passes through the frame as well, or do they just protect the wires from being cut? Obviously, I'd like to seal up the frame as much as possible (or plan on drilling drain holes in the bottom of the frame rail...not sure yet).
4. I'd like to have a utility light in the bed, a back-up light (if possible), as well as leave a lead for a 12V battery charger in the box. How would you wire these? I assume the Black 10G wire will be the lead for the battery charger, and that the Yellow 14G would be used for the bed utility light. What wire do you use for the back-up light?

FWIW, I am not planning on running trailer brakes, so the Blue 12G wire will not be utilized yet.

Advice?

Thanks,
Craig

 

[Detour]

*I'd like to install LED running lights on the sides of the trailer. Given the use of running lights (vs. just taillights), it sounds like I'd want to ditch the pre-sheathed by-the-foot wiring, and run a "Y" off the tongue, and down the inside of both frame rails. For the folks using running lights, can you confirm this is what you did?

depending on where the lights are going.. i would run the 7 wire as far as possible with the protective sheathing. on mine i ran it all the way to the back because i only have rear lights. i used solder, heat shrink and conduit for the rest.

*What are you using for grommets? I found these mil-spec grommets on McMaster-Carr, and thought they'd do the trick.

your local autoparts will have cheap rubber grommets. no need to get fancy here. there will be an assortment of sizes..

*Should the grommets seal out water where the wiring passes through the frame as well, or do they just protect the wires from being cut? Obviously, I'd like to seal up the frame as much as possible (or plan on drilling drain holes in the bottom of the frame rail...not sure yet).

they mostly protect the wiring.. dab of silicon will help you keep things dry

*I'd like to have a utility light in the bed, a back-up light (if possible), as well as leave a lead for a 12V battery charger in the box. How would you wire these? I assume the Black 10G wire will be the lead for the battery charger, and that the Yellow 14G would be used for the bed utility light. What wire do you use for the back-up light?

if i were to wire a back-up light into my tow rig's harness, i would use a relay to take the load off the trucks harness... most of them cannot handle an extra load like that.

FWIW, I am not planning on running trailer brakes, so the Blue 12G wire will not be utilized yet.

Advice?

Thanks,
Craig

i would leave a pigtail accessible incase you ever get to add these

 

[ntsqd]

What I like to do is to put a trailer light socket in the tongue. That gives the wiring a nice strain-relief at the tongue. Wiring from the backside of the trailer's socket can then be what ever best suits the circuit(s) involved. When parked the 'lighting jumper' can be put out of harm and weather's way in the tongue box. It also allows you to have different jumpers for differently socketed tow vehicles rather than a collection of adapters.

I don't think that you can spend too much on wire grommets (within reason of course!). The very prevalent cheap ones only seem to last a couple of years at most in outdoor exposure.

If the back-up light is not an LED I second the need for a relay somewhere. I use a JY sourced 5.0L Mustang GT fog light for the back-up light on the rear of one truck. It runs off of a relay that it triggered by the reverse lights and powered by a battery hot run the length of the truck with GM isolated studs (JY sourced) placed along the way.
There is no reason that the wire driving that reverse light could not go to the trailer light socket and drive a reverse light on the trailer too or instead of the auxiliary reverse light on the truck.

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

depending on where the lights are going.. i would run the 7 wire as far as possible with the protective sheathing. on mine i ran it all the way to the back because i only have rear lights. i used solder, heat shrink and conduit for the rest.

Good suggestion...agreed.

if i were to wire a back-up light into my tow rig's harness, i would use a relay to take the load off the trucks harness... most of them cannot handle an extra load like that.

What about an LED?

i would leave a pigtail accessible incase you ever get to add these

Good idea.

What I like to do is to put a trailer light socket in the tongue. That gives the wiring a nice strain-relief at the tongue. Wiring from the backside of the trailer's socket can then be what ever best suits the circuit(s) involved. When parked the 'lighting jumper' can be put out of harm and weather's way in the tongue box. It also allows you to have different jumpers for differently socketed tow vehicles rather than a collection of adapters.

Good idea. However, both of my vehicles have a 7-round hook-up, and I don't plan on loaning the trailer out. The trailer plug/jumper is still a consideration, though.

I don't think that you can spend too much on wire grommets (within reason of course!). The very prevalent cheap ones only seem to last a couple of years at most in outdoor exposure.

I don't mind spending more to do it right once (not just with grommets, but in-general).

If the back-up light is not an LED I second the need for a relay somewhere. I use a JY sourced 5.0L Mustang GT fog light for the back-up light on the rear of one truck. It runs off of a relay that it triggered by the reverse lights and powered by a battery hot run the length of the truck with GM isolated studs (JY sourced) placed along the way.
There is no reason that the wire driving that reverse light could not go to the trailer light socket and drive a reverse light on the trailer too or instead of the auxiliary reverse light on the truck.

I'll give this some thought. I'm not an electrical guru, by any stretch. I'm more of a "paint-by-numbers" guy than a Picasso when it comes to wiring. :sombrero:

Craig

 

[trail-explorer]

Ditto on grommets - they only really protect the wire. To seal things up, a dollop of RTV or some other form of sealant is needed.

LED Backup/work light idea:

http://www.4x4led.com/accessories/worklight.htm