Guys,
I have a 2016 Jeep wrangler 4-door. I have recently added some power distribution to the rear of the vehicle. I come off the factory battery with 4awg marine grade wire-to a Blue Sea Systems re-settable circuit-breaker...then 4 awg cable under the side door trim and into the small space under the rear removable cover of the center console. There, I have mounted a Blue Sea Dual Bus Bar Plus. All of this , to this point is 4 awg wire, crimped, loomed and heat-shrinked with great care. Then I come off of the dual pus with a fused (15 amp) cable run that is about 11 feet long (including the power-pole connected oem power cord that is 12awg- that finally connects to the end of the fridge. From the dual bus (the "break-out point" for all of this, I also run a 4 awg negative all the way back to the battery terminal for a solid grounding-- all of this design is done to minimize voltage drop.
The issue:
I plugged the SnoMaster 82d up last night to ground power so that it could cool down while I slept...and it did. My freezer side is set to 0 degrees and the fridge to 30 degrees. This am when I left for work I drove 15 minutes to the office and parked all day-- at the end of the day, the temps were 39--(from 0) and 69 (from 30 degrees.) The unit cooled down perfectly on ac power and it has previously worked fine using the cigarette lighter adapter--although I havent used it in over a month while I was wiring all of this stuff up.
Low voltage cut-off on the SnoMaster is set to 10.5. The voltage indicator on the fridge shows (at rest) 12.1-12.5, but when the compressor comes on, the voltage goes down to 11.1 to 11.3. When I used a meter to test voltage at the battery (vehcile off) I get 12.27 volts, at the dual bus bar - 12.27 volts - on the fridge 12.3-12.5.
What say you? my theory is that the 4 awg is fine, 12 awg is fine, no voltage drop shown- no warm wires -- but I think the battery seems suspect. I will say when driving the voltage reads 13.8 - 14.2 --- Kinda at a loss....
I have a 2016 Jeep wrangler 4-door. I have recently added some power distribution to the rear of the vehicle. I come off the factory battery with 4awg marine grade wire-to a Blue Sea Systems re-settable circuit-breaker...then 4 awg cable under the side door trim and into the small space under the rear removable cover of the center console. There, I have mounted a Blue Sea Dual Bus Bar Plus. All of this , to this point is 4 awg wire, crimped, loomed and heat-shrinked with great care. Then I come off of the dual pus with a fused (15 amp) cable run that is about 11 feet long (including the power-pole connected oem power cord that is 12awg- that finally connects to the end of the fridge. From the dual bus (the "break-out point" for all of this, I also run a 4 awg negative all the way back to the battery terminal for a solid grounding-- all of this design is done to minimize voltage drop.
The issue:
I plugged the SnoMaster 82d up last night to ground power so that it could cool down while I slept...and it did. My freezer side is set to 0 degrees and the fridge to 30 degrees. This am when I left for work I drove 15 minutes to the office and parked all day-- at the end of the day, the temps were 39--(from 0) and 69 (from 30 degrees.) The unit cooled down perfectly on ac power and it has previously worked fine using the cigarette lighter adapter--although I havent used it in over a month while I was wiring all of this stuff up.
Low voltage cut-off on the SnoMaster is set to 10.5. The voltage indicator on the fridge shows (at rest) 12.1-12.5, but when the compressor comes on, the voltage goes down to 11.1 to 11.3. When I used a meter to test voltage at the battery (vehcile off) I get 12.27 volts, at the dual bus bar - 12.27 volts - on the fridge 12.3-12.5.
What say you? my theory is that the 4 awg is fine, 12 awg is fine, no voltage drop shown- no warm wires -- but I think the battery seems suspect. I will say when driving the voltage reads 13.8 - 14.2 --- Kinda at a loss....
