WK2 backseat delete - looking for platform ideas

kga1978

Active member
Hi everybody,

I got bored over the TG break and decided to remove the back seat in our 2017 Grand Cherokee Trailhawk - because, why not. So step 1 is completed, but I haven't really thought too much about step 2.... We often sleep in the back of the car, so I was hoping to build out a platform where the back seats used to be so I can create some cubby space / storage. I love what Goose Gear has been doing for a lot of different vehicles, but the WK2 platform unfortunately isn't one of them.

I don't really know where to start, but I'm looking for ideas and inspiration for how I can build out the platform. There should be a good number of attachment points from where I took the seats out, so I think I can make a pretty solid structure. But what type of material should I use? How should I cover the material - maybe automotive felt? What about those nifty little cubby holes GG makes - could I make similar ones using e.g., marine hatches? I bought a router to, presumably, be able to do some fancy cuts - and no, I have no real idea how to use this little magic machine, but I watch the Tube.

Has anybody done something similar for the WK2? Or other cars where I might get some inspiration? I'd describe my skillzzz as "aspiring DIY'er, with plenty of failures - and a few successes - on previous projects under my belt". I got rad(ish) tools too.

Here's where I'm currently at:
wk2.jpg
 

ThePartyWagon

Active member
Marine grade baltic birch in 1/2 inch-maybe 5/8 inch thickness

I'm partial to the Goose Gear bedlined panels myself, but auto carpeting will work as well. I like the bedliner because it can get wet, dirty and gross without staining or remaining damp.

Mark and drill your seat delete for threaded mounting point called t-nuts, install those from the underside for various threaded points. Use these for tie downs or mounting other components.

Use the factory hardware and mounting points for the plates, no need to drill new holes in your truck. You may need to elevate or space out the panel from the lower mounting points that were under the seat. What is that giant chunk of plastic in the trunk? Will that be removed as well? If not, it doesn't look like you can make the seat delete flush with the trunk floor. Maybe that's not your goal.

For the cubby holes, you've got the router and you can buy various latches on the internet but I believe Goose Gear sells their exact latches if you like what they use.

Make your plate flat and use a vertical plate as the front leg to support the seat delete behind your front seats. Think of a T shape; the plate will be the horizontal part of the T and the front support will be the vertical part of the T. Attach however you would like but Goose Gear uses a small piece of 80/20 track for strength and a mounting location. I've seen some installations where there is an anchor point or loop mounted under the plate and another loop or anchor point mounted to the floor. Then pull a cam strap tight to keep the front end of the seat delete secured.

You can see the vertical support and the top plate interface with the 80/20 track in the photo below. If you want to support any real weight on the seat delete, you will need to reinforce the plate with some sort of extrusion or 80/20.


IMG_5953_2000x.jpg


Let us know how it goes. Goose Gear is the gold standard of drawer systems, in my opinion. Feel free to bounce ideas back to me.

Good luck!
 

nwoods

Expedition Leader
I echo the comments on Goose Gear.
however, for a more homebuilt assembly, its not hard. I built a platform for a Jeep LJ a few years ago. Nothing fancy, but it worked amazing for my needs. The key at the end was the Tuffy Tie Down bar. Here is a photo of half the platform (rear seat back in).

platform-20-L.jpg


Here are photos of the build:
 

SARon

New member
I just did the same thing in my FJ. Don't need the back seats and I needed to fit my large Gunner Kennel. I used high quality oak ply, cut into a single piece to fit the exact measurements of my cargo area. The platform secures to the chassis at 6 different points, making for a solid platform. A quick visit to amazon found me some cargo tie-down points. Everything, amazingly turned out exactly like I wanted and I'm super stoked on the versatility of the platform. My inspiration came from my FJ Cruiser Forums, where many different threads about platforms are on display.

IMG_20201112_143725054_HDR.jpg
 

kga1978

Active member
Thank y'all - a lot of really good stuff here and great ideas.

Mark and drill your seat delete for threaded mounting point called t-nuts, install those from the underside for various threaded points. Use these for tie downs or mounting other components.

Great idea! I hadn't thought of that, but this is a nice and easy way to make the platform more functional and future proof it a little. Easy to do as well, so I'll make sure to add some in. If nothing else, I can use the points to tie down bandits trying to steal my nice new platform...

I'm partial to the Goose Gear bedlined panels myself, but auto carpeting will work as well. I like the bedliner because it can get wet, dirty and gross without staining or remaining damp.

Bedliner.... Hmmm. Now I'm wondering whether I should go with automotive carpet or instead go with plastic laminate? Or maybe bedliner (paint?)? I'm planning on enclosing the platform, so there'll be sides - I'm wondering whether that's going to look a lot nicer with e.g., plastic laminate (something like this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wilsona...tandard-Matte-Finish-48206035036144/202840822) than automotive carpet. Do any of you know whether Goose Gear is using bedliner/paint or laminate? Kinda looks like bedliner to me, but not a product I have previously used.

What is that giant chunk of plastic in the trunk? Will that be removed as well? If not, it doesn't look like you can make the seat delete flush with the trunk floor.

There's a cylinder underneath that plastic for the air suspension - so that's going to stay put. I'm planning on leveling the platform with the top of the plastic and then there's a cover going over. We sleep in the car, so I need to make sure I make the platform perfectly flat.

For the cubby holes, you've got the router and you can buy various latches on the internet but I believe Goose Gear sells their exact latches if you like what they use.

Indeed they do! $45 each, but hey - they're nice latches... And surely using that router is going to be a piece of cake....

Here are photos of the build:

A lot of great photos that gave me some ideas - thanks!

FJ Cruiser Forums

Oh, I bet there must be a lot of great ideas over there - I'll go check it out.

?
 

ThePartyWagon

Active member
Bedliner.... Hmmm. Now I'm wondering whether I should go with automotive carpet or instead go with plastic laminate? Or maybe bedliner (paint?)? I'm planning on enclosing the platform, so there'll be sides - I'm wondering whether that's going to look a lot nicer with e.g., plastic laminate (something like this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wilsona...tandard-Matte-Finish-48206035036144/202840822) than automotive carpet. Do any of you know whether Goose Gear is using bedliner/paint or laminate? Kinda looks like bedliner to me, but not a product I have previously used.

Goose Gear uses a spray on bedliner similar to your average truck bed liner. I made my own Goose Gear style base plate for my XJ and I am planning on spraying it with Raptor Liner. I've previously used the stuff and it turned out really nice but you need an air compressor. The laminate might be nice inside the enclosure, kind of like a kitchen drawer liner, I would want something more durable where I'll be storing gear or sliding stuff across the surface though.
 

nwoods

Expedition Leader
I've been kicking around some ideas for my WK (a bit different from the WK2 posted above). I want to omit the back row seat, and provide a platform that is a bit easier for my dog to jump up onto, and I'd like to create a flatter, larger floor plate for storage. I recently did a trip with my wife and dog, and we had to add a roof top box to fit all our camping gear. The WK is pretty small inside, even compared to my Jeep LJ. Where did you see that Goose sells their latches? I searched their website and didn't see that.
 

kga1978

Active member
@@kga1978 - Any progress with your backseat delete for your WK2? I am headed in that same direction with my WK2...

Yeah, a lot of progress actually - I should do a build thread... Here's what I did:
  • Removed back seat and built a storage box that also houses a inverter and soon a second battery
  • Built a cabinet in the back for drawers, water/shower, fridge, etc.
I made all of this using 3/4" birch plywood and coated it in bullyliner for a nice bedliner texture - it holds up well. For the cabinet, I cut out parts of the sides, internal frame, top, etc. to save weight. It comes out pretty easy and can be pushed forward since the spare tire is still underneath (takes ~5mins to get to the tire - need to remove some beefy bolts first). I wanted to make the cabinet using T-slots, but they're pretty much impossible to come by at the moment, so plywood it is.

Overall very happy with the results - came out pretty nice. Some photos attached.
 

Attachments

  • Backseat removal.jpg
    Backseat removal.jpg
    4.1 MB · Views: 155
  • Cabinet1.jpg
    Cabinet1.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 148
  • Cabinet2.jpg
    Cabinet2.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 137
  • Cabinet3.jpg
    Cabinet3.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 132
  • Electrical3.jpg
    Electrical3.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 132
  • Frame1.jpg
    Frame1.jpg
    3.7 MB · Views: 134
  • Frame2.jpg
    Frame2.jpg
    3.4 MB · Views: 130
  • Frame3.jpg
    Frame3.jpg
    3.2 MB · Views: 138
  • Parts.jpg
    Parts.jpg
    3.6 MB · Views: 132
  • Platform3.jpg
    Platform3.jpg
    3.5 MB · Views: 137

kga1978

Active member
I should mention that before we did the cabinet in the back, we used to sleep in the back of the car using a custom made RV mattress. Soooo nice! We have since installed a RTT so we can have the 'kitchen' permanently in the back - it's nice, but I'm a little torn which setup I like more, since sleeping inside the car was really nice...
 

Attachments

  • Bedroom1.jpg
    Bedroom1.jpg
    3.5 MB · Views: 74
  • Bedroom2.jpg
    Bedroom2.jpg
    4.2 MB · Views: 67

kga1978

Active member
... and in case you need the instructions for removing the back sets, please see attached - pretty easy to do, just know they're pretty darn heavy!
 

Attachments

  • Rear seats.pdf
    249.7 KB · Views: 24

nwoods

Expedition Leader
Wow that is completely fantastic. What you did is essentially the sesame as what I am thinking of doing. Nice job! What is Bullyliner? Is it sprayed on or rolled?
 

kga1978

Active member
Thanks - I needed a COVID distraction and this seemed like a good project for that... ;).

You can get Bullyliner from Homedepot or directly from the manufacturer: https://www.bullyliner.com/. Great stuff. Spray it on as a really light mist and the results look fantastic - it needs a couple/few coats but it only takes ~30mins to dry and is fully water based (you can roll it on too, but I think it looks better when sprayed on (as you do it properly - be patient and don't try to add to much all in one go)). I picked the "storm grey" color, which I really like.

The backseat removal / storage box took me a couple of weekends to complete - the cabinet a little more (a lot of cutting and painting...).
 

nwoods

Expedition Leader
@kga1978 - What did you do in the rear cargo area? Did you replace the "cassette tray" with a more structural floor to accommodate the storage system? I have a WK, and it appears your is a WK2, but many aspects are similar. I am considering replacing the tray altogether with a new plywood floor. Here are photos of my mine partially disassembled:
IMG_7325D.JPGIMG_7328.JPGIMG_7336D.JPGIMG_7335.JPG
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,161
Messages
2,902,899
Members
229,582
Latest member
JSKepler
Top