Yakima Tracks on SnugTop Questions - '12 Tacoma DCSB

[cs0430]

I will be installing yakima tracks on my snug top I just bought and have a couple questions. I'm a little paranoid about my truck and want to make sure things work as perfectly as they can. This will be supporting my CVT RTT.

1. I bought a reinforced topper which has a honeycomb section in the middle providing reinforcing. I have heard to put the bolts for the track through this part, and I have heard the opposite. I called SnugTop twice and got two different answers. Any thoughts/experiences with one way or the other? I want to make sure my load rating stays intact, but don't want to crush the reinforced part while tightening bolts.

2. Second question is about the size of track that would match up with a short bed shell. I have about 48" of useable area, and tracks come in 42, 54 and 60. I want to make sure there is a bolt hole at the end so I don't have one end of the tracks sticking up. What size did anyone with this set-up use? Depending on the pre-drilled hold spacing I'm guessing I could cut a 60 down and be close? I'd rather do that then buy the 42 and be short on distributing the load.

Really anxious to get going on this so I can mount my RTT again (had a bed rack before). Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Colton

 

[Flagster]

Not sure if my answer helps but I mounted my rails to the side of the camper shell...
IMO the stresses are better transferred to the near vertical walls of the camper than the top...I used the yakima artificial raingutters...and 1a towers...matched the height to the towers on the cab...
I have had a lot of weight up there on only two bars...don't know what rtts weigh but can't be more than 100 lbs?
No close ups but here is what mine look like...
Cheapo snugtop cab hi...no lining...just drilled though and sealed with silicone...that was 6 years ago...no problems...
The other advantage IMO to placing the towers are far outboard as possible is to minimize bar flex outboard of the towers... I have 77inch bars...even the bike trays where they sit right now flex a lot in the wind...

 

[Mrknowitall]

I'm not a huge fan of tracks, especially for such a short cap- unless you're intending to use one of the new bar shapes, I'd go with Landing Pads and Control Towers. They install/remove in seconds, but can be locked. I would bolt close to the curve, in a non-reenforced area. I used stainless T-nuts from underneath. ON my Jason cap, I gould pull myself up by the bar end with very slight deflection. 2 cross-bars sould be plenty.

 

[cs0430]

Thanks Flagster, if I wasn't using my RTT and needing whatever rack I will be putting on to support the tent, my girlfriend and me, I would go with a system like that.

I'm not a huge fan of tracks, especially for such a short cap- unless you're intending to use one of the new bar shapes, I'd go with Landing Pads and Control Towers. They install/remove in seconds, but can be locked. I would bolt close to the curve, in a non-reenforced area. I used stainless T-nuts from underneath. ON my Jason cap, I could pull myself up by the bar end with very slight deflection. 2 cross-bars sould be plenty.

Thanks, the reason for the tracks is I will probably be having a local fabricator make me a custom rack that will hold my tent, some aux. lights up front and back, and a hi-lift on the side. It will be easier for him to make something that ties into the yakima tracks than the landing pads.

 

[cobb ridge]

If you put it in the middle on the honeycomb you cannot tighten it down without crushing it. The instructions that came with my wind cheetah said to mount them as far outboard as possible. Meaning close to the walls. The same principle as Flagsters.

 

[cs0430]

If you put it in the middle on the honeycomb you cannot tighten it down without crushing it. The instructions that came with my wind cheetah said to mount them as far outboard as possible. Meaning close to the walls. The same principle as Flagsters.

That does seem to make the most sense, mounting them outside of the reinforced part.

 

[NM-Frontier]

The closer to the sides the better, keeps the weight off the middle of the roof (weak) and over the sides (strong). Buy the long tracks and trim them, if there is not a hole at the end you could use a drill to add another hole to fit your length. Sounds like a nice setup when your done!

 

[fredgoodsell]

I am in a similar situation to the OP. I recently bought a used Snugtop. It came from the factory with Yakima tracks installed, but a previous owner removed them. I'm trying to find the right tracks to replace the originals. I looks like from the bolt-holes left, that Snugtop installed 42" tracks on this shell (double cab shortbed). The holes are drilled right through the honeycomb portion.

I can snap a photo of the hole configuration if that would help you out at all.

 

[cs0430]

The closer to the sides the better, keeps the weight off the middle of the roof (weak) and over the sides (strong). Buy the long tracks and trim them, if there is not a hole at the end you could use a drill to add another hole to fit your length. Sounds like a nice setup when your done!

Thats what would make the most sense to me, I hope the hole would line up well, and if not I could just waterproof the existing hole and drill a new one. I know from all my damn Architectural Engineering classes about loading the sides vs the top...who would have thought that would come in handy? That's why I just can't get over that someone would think it best to drill through the center portion.

I am in a similar situation to the OP. I recently bought a used Snugtop. It came from the factory with Yakima tracks installed, but a previous owner removed them. I'm trying to find the right tracks to replace the originals. I looks like from the bolt-holes left, that Snugtop installed 42" tracks on this shell (double cab shortbed). The holes are drilled right through the honeycomb portion.

I can snap a photo of the hole configuration if that would help you out at all.

That would really be great if you could snap some pictures. I found in some random forum online someone saying that the holes for yakima tracks are 12" OC, so cutting a 60" down one hole should make for a 48" system, exactly what I would be looking for. That's probably the route I will be going. Now if I could just get a definitive answer on honeycomb vs no honeycomb...

 

[Saguache]

I just finished mounting my RTT (AutoHome MGT) to Rhino tracks mounted to the ARE MX on my short bed. Pretty similar situation actually, I had the tracks factory mounted which keeps the warranty intact on the topper. You may be able to get this done with a SnugTop rep in your area (check with the guy who sold you the topper).

As far as weight is concerned the extra rigidity probably makes my MX a little overbuilt for the purpose, but it doesn't add that much weight so its worth it in my book.

Good luck (and post photos or it never happened).

 

[Uglyduck]

I installed Yakima tracks on the Snugtop Cab Hi shell for my DC 07 Tacoma three years ago and had an Eezi Awn 1600 up there off and on until I built a trailer last year.

1. I bought a reinforced topper which has a honeycomb section in the middle providing reinforcing. I have heard to put the bolts for the track through this part, and I have heard the opposite. I called SnugTop twice and got two different answers. Any thoughts/experiences with one way or the other? I want to make sure my load rating stays intact, but don't want to crush the reinforced part while tightening bolts.

I installed mine through the honeycomb without crushing it or any leaking. I've heard concerns about water collecting in the honeycomb section but haven't experienced that problem. Ample silicon and rubber washers seemed to do the trick.

2. Second question is about the size of track that would match up with a short bed shell. I have about 48" of useable area, and tracks come in 42, 54 and 60. I want to make sure there is a bolt hole at the end so I don't have one end of the tracks sticking up. What size did anyone with this set-up use? Depending on the pre-drilled hold spacing I'm guessing I could cut a 60 down and be close? I'd rather do that then buy the 42 and be short on distributing the load.

Really anxious to get going on this so I can mount my RTT again (had a bed rack before). Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Colton

I think I cut mine down to 48" from 54". I'm out of town right now but can confirm that and the distance between holes when I get back.

On the trailer I installed tracks and bars from Rhino Rack. The tracks use a t-bolt to secure so hole placement and track length aren't as critical like the Yakima's. I found the heavy duty bars easier to work with as far as attaching things to them. If I did it again, I'd install Rhino Racks on my shell.

 

[cs0430]

I installed Yakima tracks on the Snugtop Cab Hi shell for my DC 07 Tacoma three years ago and had an Eezi Awn 1600 up there off and on until I built a trailer last year. I installed mine through the honeycomb without crushing it or any leaking. I've heard concerns about water collecting in the honeycomb section but haven't experienced that problem. Ample silicon and rubber washers seemed to do the trick.
I think I cut mine down to 48" from 54". I'm out of town right now but can confirm that and the distance between holes when I get back.
On the trailer I installed tracks and bars from Rhino Rack. The tracks use a t-bolt to secure so hole placement and track length aren't as critical like the Yakima's. I found the heavy duty bars easier to work with as far as attaching things to them. If I did it again, I'd install Rhino Racks on my shell.

Well I ordered some 60" Yakima tracks from Amazon, but that doesn't necessarily mean I have to use them. I have only heard a few mentions of Rhino Racks, I'll do some research into them. Even though I think my local dealer is a bunch of morons, I'll have them install whatever tracks I get through the honeycomb just to save warranty. Should have had this done from the factory. Live and learn. Any pictures when you get back would be really helpful. Thanks

 

[Mike S]

I mounted an AutoHome Air Top on the ARE shell on my F350. The ARE has the same honeycomb re-inforced roof that you describe. We used a set of Yakima tracks. They were supplied with a special set of track bolts and nuts. We drilled through the Honeycomb section near the outer edge, and set the bolts in clear silicone sealer and used the fat nuts that came with the Yakima track system against the ceiling of the shell. It did not crush the fiberglass or the honeycomb material.

I have been using this system for several years and nothing has failed, loosened, or otherwise indicated any problem. It is very strong.

 

[bigwapitijohnny]

be real careful...

Colton,

I bought a SnugTop SnugPro. It is a commercial grade fiberglass topper with a re-inforced roof. The weight capacity is rated for 500 lbs...I would crunch the numbers on your topper's capacity and go from there. I did have the Yakima tracks installed at the factory. I was looking to do it myself, however, I was informed that this would void my warranty. I would also make sure with SnugTop that the track install at a dealer will not void the warranty as well. It was my understanding that even if the dealer installed these, the warranty would be voided. I would not let your topper's warranty hang in the balance of said 'morons'...

I consider Snugtop to be the gold standard of toppers. They are expensive, but in my opinion, well worth the cost.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

BWJ

 

[cs0430]

Colton,

I bought a SnugTop SnugPro. It is a commercial grade fiberglass topper with a re-inforced roof. The weight capacity is rated for 500 lbs...I would crunch the numbers on your topper's capacity and go from there. I did have the Yakima tracks installed at the factory. I was looking to do it myself, however, I was informed that this would void my warranty. I would also make sure with SnugTop that the track install at a dealer will not void the warranty as well. It was my understanding that even if the dealer installed these, the warranty would be voided. I would not let your topper's warranty hang in the balance of said 'morons'...
Hope this helps.

Regards,

BWJ

Thanks for the reply, I read through your whole build thread the other day, making me a little jealous I don't have a tundra. Clean set-up you have there!

I just realized there might be some confusion. By dealer, I mean the dealer who sold me the SnugTop, not my Toyota dealer. I was told over the phone by a SnugTop rep that having them install it is ok, so hopefully that is the case. The local SnugTop dealer is supposed to call SnugTop, give them my shells serial number, and SnugTop records that it was professionally installed, keeping the warranty intact. As for the load capacity, I got the 'sportsman's package' which reinforces the roof the same as yours to hold 500lbs as well as adding a few little things on the interior. I should be good for loading.