I need longer cross bars on my Z71 rack (2004 Suburban). Probably something in the 72" range. The commercial option would be something like the Yakima Timberline Towers that strap around the rail portion of the rack. These towers with locks run around $250. I was wondering if I could just get some crossbars and mount them directly to the rail in some fashion. I do not care if they are easily removable and it would add a little less height. I could potentially lay them right on top and bolt through the rail. The other option would be to use a carriage bolt and a 90 degree assembly of some type to attach to the cross bars similar to what Rayra did with his roof rack build. I could also lay them on top of the factory crossbars and bolt through those. I am transporting a couple of long paddleboards so the weight on the rack is minimal. I am more worried about the lift created. Any ideas? Thanks!
Z71 Extended Cross Bars
- Thread starter C.I.TR3
- Start date
rayra
Expedition Leader
Roof racks is Storage, I'd say. Was going to mention my solution, but you beat me to it 
It would be easy to add and all you'd have to do is get some 3/4" or 1" square tubing a to make the cross bars and four angle brackets and bolt hardware. Jus tdrill right thru the square tubing and run the bolts thru it and the angle brackets. Use carriage bolts or pan-head or 'truss' bolts to have flattish heads that shouldn't damage your hulls if they come in contact.
And you could just cover the square tubing with foam pipe insulation. In fact you could use standard EMT conduit for your cross braces, they'd be plenty strong enough for a couple paddleboards. Whole setup would cost $30-40, depending how fancy you get.
eta just discovered my sig links don't work anymore, guess the board conversion changed the addressing.
Here's my topic on the roof deck build and attachments
https://www.expeditionportal.com/fo...f-rack-deck-on-a-gmt800-suburban-z-71.156783/
A 5/16" carriage bolt's shoulders are a snug fit in the Z-71 roof rack strut / channel. Sometimes it binds a little but you want it snug. I use the claw of a hammer inserted into the slot, trailign the inserted bolt, then I move the hammer handle towards the front and rear bumpers of the vehicle to pry the strut open enough to scoot the bolt along to where I want it.
A 2" long angle bracket should do the job for you, if you have the cross braces laying on top of the factory rack side rails. Drill a new hole in the bracket leg centered on the slot in the side rails. Use the original pair of holes in the other leg of the brace to bolt down the new cross brace.
A 1" long carriage bolt should be long enough. I used nylock nuts for my crossbrace nuts. Didn't want them working loose as my roof deck blocks ready access to the crossbrace carriage bolts when the deck is bolted down.
It would be easy to add and all you'd have to do is get some 3/4" or 1" square tubing a to make the cross bars and four angle brackets and bolt hardware. Jus tdrill right thru the square tubing and run the bolts thru it and the angle brackets. Use carriage bolts or pan-head or 'truss' bolts to have flattish heads that shouldn't damage your hulls if they come in contact.And you could just cover the square tubing with foam pipe insulation. In fact you could use standard EMT conduit for your cross braces, they'd be plenty strong enough for a couple paddleboards. Whole setup would cost $30-40, depending how fancy you get.
eta just discovered my sig links don't work anymore, guess the board conversion changed the addressing.
Here's my topic on the roof deck build and attachments
https://www.expeditionportal.com/fo...f-rack-deck-on-a-gmt800-suburban-z-71.156783/
A 5/16" carriage bolt's shoulders are a snug fit in the Z-71 roof rack strut / channel. Sometimes it binds a little but you want it snug. I use the claw of a hammer inserted into the slot, trailign the inserted bolt, then I move the hammer handle towards the front and rear bumpers of the vehicle to pry the strut open enough to scoot the bolt along to where I want it.
A 2" long angle bracket should do the job for you, if you have the cross braces laying on top of the factory rack side rails. Drill a new hole in the bracket leg centered on the slot in the side rails. Use the original pair of holes in the other leg of the brace to bolt down the new cross brace.
A 1" long carriage bolt should be long enough. I used nylock nuts for my crossbrace nuts. Didn't want them working loose as my roof deck blocks ready access to the crossbrace carriage bolts when the deck is bolted down.
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