Our "new" Tiger...

[ersatzknarf]

Whoa....
That was a lot of work and you did a great job (! wow ! ! ! :sombrero, but you're right, that's very labor intensive.
I sure don't think I could have gotten that to work.

 

[ersatzknarf]

Just came across this, today.
Here's another German application using the road case method, but in a modular arrangement : http://www.ququq.info/
(not inexpensive, but then one could build this at home...)

 

[blupaddler]

I am glad you started a thread for the Sprinter.

We too miss the Tiger, and I was recently tempted by a CX on the east coast.
With a +1 on the way, I have thought about gutting the interior of our SMB. But that, as you know all so well, is a bunch of work!

 

[HMR]

With a +1 on the way...

+1!!!
CONGRATS ROBB!!!
I think we need to celebrate with a camping trip. :wings:

 

[HMR]

Just came across this, today.
Here's another German application using the road case method, but in a modular arrangement : http://www.ququq.info/
(not inexpensive, but then one could build this at home...)

Thanks for the link. I think the modular cases have a lot of potential for storing camping gear. They're relatively easy to make, surprisingly inexpensive, not "that" heavy and super tough. I used them to haul expensive equipment around the U.S. for years in a previous career. They outlasted every vehicle we used to haul them.

One of the projects still remaining on the Sprinter is building a 2'x3'x1' road case to sit where the black rug is in this photo:

It'll have a removable top and connect to the aircraft track along the floor. Inside will be a shower pan, shower curtain, etc. to serve as our indoor shower.

 

[ersatzknarf]

Thanks for the link. I think the modular cases have a lot of potential for storing camping gear. They're relatively easy to make, surprisingly inexpensive, not "that" heavy and super tough. I used them to haul expensive equipment around the U.S. for years in a previous career. They outlasted every vehicle we used to haul them.

You're very welcome. I thought it good food for thought. The statements "relatively easy to make" and "surprisingly inexpensive," not to mention "super tough" and the examples, really drive home that this is a method to be considered strongly; the first two especially

One of the projects still remaining on the Sprinter is building a 2'x3'x1' road case to sit where the black rug is in this photo:

It'll have a removable top and connect to the aircraft track along the floor. Inside will be a shower pan, shower curtain, etc. to serve as our indoor shower.

That is an amazing idea ! ! ! :sombrero:

I've collected a large number of road case construction interior photos, but not seen that before. That's going to be a very useful addition.

By the way, the design for ours will need to span across the aisle to make the sleeping platform. With the baltic birch only method, the plan was to have a panel/s that is held to one side by piano hinge and then flips over the span to rest on a support rail. With the road case method, I've yet to come up with something to do this. Have you seen anything, HMR ?

 

[mhiscox]

I am glad you started a thread for the Sprinter.

Me, too. It's a fantastic piece of work, and with my own Sprinter sold, I'm living vicariously through your build.

Enjoy your travels. Your rig sure turned out great. :bowdown:

 

[Overland Hadley]

Very nice. Can you give a quick run down on the materials and general construction methods?

x2!

 

[HMR]

By the way, the design for ours will need to span across the aisle to make the sleeping platform. With the baltic birch only method, the plan was to have a panel/s that is held to one side by piano hinge and then flips over the span to rest on a support rail. With the road case method, I've yet to come up with something to do this. Have you seen anything, HMR ?

Yes. One of our original sketches used a similar platform for the bed. I don't know how big of a space you need to span but if the width is, say, 3' or less, I would use 1/2" Baltic Birch (see note #1 below), laminate both sides with ABS and use 1/2" "U-Cap" extrusion for the edges. On the edge with the piano hinge (see note #2), I'd drill completely through the wood for each hole (you could also do every other hole depending on piano hinge) and use #8-32 x 1/2", stainless steel, pan head screws with a matching T-nut on the other side. With a little loc-tite on each screw it should withstand many miles of washboard roads. Also be careful when tightening any fastener on top of the ABS. The plastic will discolor and warp if it gets squeezed too hard.

Note#1- I purchased our plywood from a specialty shop so I could get a "true" 1/2" thickness. Home Depot and Lowe's usually sell their ply in 15/32" thickness. When laminating both sides of a sheet with ABS it's probably better to use the 15/32". The extrusions can be a tight fit when trying to overlap two sheets of ABS and a 1/2" thick ply. It's always good to experiment with a little section, first, to ensure the right fit.

Note#2- Just a reminder that there are a ton of different piano hinge sizes/configs available. You don't have to stick with the standard width offered by the road case suppliers. The standard size will work great for what you want to do but you might find something else that works better. Aircraft Spruce has a nice selection of piano hinges.

Finally, we ditched the idea of the plywood bed base when my wife suggested an Ikea slat frame. This was probably the single best design change we made. If there's anyway to fit this into your project, DO IT! I can't express how much more comfy this setup is.

The frame:

 

[HMR]

Me, too. It's a fantastic piece of work, and with my own Sprinter sold, I'm living vicariously through your build.

Enjoy your travels. Your rig sure turned out great. :bowdown:

Mike- Your Sprinter, like your Jeep, is a complete mind blower. Thanks for sharing both builds (not to mention your other cool builds) with us. Just FYI- The Sprinter was probably #5 on our list of "next vehicles". The first time I toured your Sprinter it moved up to the top. It was a big motivator in our move towards the "T1N Can".

 

[HMR]

x2!

Nathanael- I wish I had some good photos to share a "how to" for the box building. The technique is no harder than what you're already doing, just a couple extra steps for the laminate and extrusions. I didn't plan to do a write up like we did with the Tiger and, regrettably for me, I didn't document much of the build with photos. I'm kicking myself now as there were a few clever solutions we came up with that I'd like to remember for future projects.

I think this would be an awesome setup for the FWC. As you know, we were close to purchasing a custom FWC and planned to use the same "road case" materials for the interior. Since the FWC is mostly square, it would've been a much easier project. As mhiscox and Paul Jensen can tell you, there is not a SINGLE spot on the Sprinter where two surfaces are square to each other. The only flat surface in the entire vehicle is the rear section of floor. I had to retire my measuring tape after this one. :Wow1:



BTW- The aluminum in your camper looks awesome! Very nice work.

 

[ersatzknarf]

Yes. One of our original sketches used a similar platform for the bed. I don't know how big of a space you need to span but if the width is, say, 3' or less, I would use 1/2" Baltic Birch (see note #1 below), laminate both sides with ABS and use 1/2" "U-Cap" extrusion for the edges. On the edge with the piano hinge (see note #2), I'd drill completely through the wood for each hole (you could also do every other hole depending on piano hinge) and use #8-32 x 1/2", stainless steel, pan head screws with a matching T-nut on the other side. With a little loc-tite on each screw it should withstand many miles of washboard roads. Also be careful when tightening any fastener on top of the ABS. The plastic will discolor and warp if it gets squeezed too hard.

That's great. Thank you. Aside from appearance, does the ABS laminate add anything to the strength ? I presume it adds durability, but my wife likes the wood look, if you know what I mean... That's a great point to keep in mind about the ABS discoloring under pressure.

The present design only has to span a distance of about 19.5" between cabinets to make up the sleeping platform - we're working with a somewhat narrow, but fortunately long-enough (I hope) space.

Note#1- I purchased our plywood from a specialty shop so I could get a "true" 1/2" thickness. Home Depot and Lowe's usually sell their ply in 15/32" thickness. When laminating both sides of a sheet with ABS it's probably better to use the 15/32". The extrusions can be a tight fit when trying to overlap two sheets of ABS and a 1/2" thick ply. It's always good to experiment with a little section, first, to ensure the right fit.

Ah, hah ! Finally a good use for the undersized materials that they sell

Note#2- Just a reminder that there are a ton of different piano hinge sizes/configs available. You don't have to stick with the standard width offered by the road case suppliers. The standard size will work great for what you want to do but you might find something else that works better. Aircraft Spruce has a nice selection of piano hinges.

That's a very good point, also. I did not think to go to Aircraft Spruce for those.

Finally, we ditched the idea of the plywood bed base when my wife suggested an Ikea slat frame. This was probably the single best design change we made. If there's anyway to fit this into your project, DO IT! I can't express how much more comfy this setup is.

The frame:

That's brilliant ! ! ! I had heard that some folks have used Ikea for their camper cabinets, but to use one of their slat frames is a huge save on cost and time. I am not sure we could fit one, but it's too good not to keep in mind. Where do you store it, when not in use, may I ask ? Is it kept up high toward the roof or off to one side ?

 

[Overland Hadley]

Nathanael- I wish I had some good photos to share a "how to" for the box building. The technique is no harder than what you're already doing, just a couple extra steps for the laminate and extrusions. I didn't plan to do a write up like we did with the Tiger and, regrettably for me, I didn't document much of the build with photos. I'm kicking myself now as there were a few clever solutions we came up with that I'd like to remember for future projects.

Thanks.

When I posted my ''x2'' I did not see that I missed the 20 most recent posts. I now better understand your build. I must say that it is a shame for the rest of us (especially those of us who do not live on the west coast) that this build went undocumented. But thanks for posting some details now.

BTW- The aluminum in your camper looks awesome! Very nice work.

Thank you.

 

[Overland Hadley]

I always get a kick out of seeing what a place like Adventure Trailers charges for "home builder" accessories vs. what you'll pay for the same stuff at a normal supplier. Example: "Aircraft Grade Adjustable Track" at Adventure Trailers vs. the same thing at McMaster-Carr. The road case suppliers, thankfully, don't include the "Expo Tax".

It seems that a 400% increase in cost is standard in the overland industry. I kind of understand when looking at a converted item, like an upgraded tire and wheel package, but it's hard to swallow when it is a DIY item.

 

[Overland Hadley]

Paul Jensen was kind enough to spend some time with me in Oregon and give me a tour of the amazing Earthroamer Jeep he converted. He also crawled around our Sprinter, took photos and asked intelligent questions. On his latest build, he ended up using the same flooring/aluminum extrusion combo as our Sprinter. Paul's woodworking is in a whole different universe than mine. It would be a shame to cover up his finishes/veneers with the ABS. It would be fun to see his version of something like this with the wood exposed:

Is there any online info on Paul's latest work?