Teardown and Rebuild Thread!!!

[thejafe]

Your picture does not show yoiur axle at full bumpstop. The jounce material will compress into the metal cup of your bumpstop when under compression. You need to measure to the bumpstop metal cup and make sure you have enough shock travel at that point. Just thought I'd mention it so you don't blow out a shock.

I hadn't thought of that when doing my test but it makes sense. Based on the pic, and given that I've only got about an inch of shock travel left do you think it would be in my best interest to add another inch to the rear bump stops?

 

[thejafe]

We have liftoff! Turns out my battery was completely shot but after a quick run to Sears there were kind enough to replace it for free. Score :sombrero: . After installing the new battery she started right up and purrs like a kitten. Let her run for 5min and no codes were thrown but we'll see what happens after I drive her around for a bit:

 

[thejafe]

Profile shot:

 

[jscusmcvet]

Nice work all around. Looking forward to pics on the trail.

 

[tdittyrocks]

I hadn't thought of that when doing my test but it makes sense. Based on the pic, and given that I've only got about an inch of shock travel left do you think it would be in my best interest to add another inch to the rear bump stops?

You can measure the amount of jounce material that hangs below the rim of the bumpstop cup and compare it to the 1" of shaft travel you had when you took the picture. For example, if the jounce material hangs 1.5" below the rim of the bumpstop cup and you have 1" of shock travel now, you will need at least .5" of bumpstop length. This would mean the shock and bumpstop would bottom out at the same time. I would be safe and leave .5" of shock travel, so in this example you would add a total of 1" of bumpstop length. That way when the bumpstop bottoms out the shock would still have .5" before it would bottom out. As long as the bumpstop bottoms out before you run out of shock travel, you'll be OK.

 

[thejafe]

I would be safe and leave .5" of shock travel, so in this example you would add a total of 1" of bumpstop length. That way when the bumpstop bottoms out the shock would still have .5" before it would bottom out. As long as the bumpstop bottoms out before you run out of shock travel, you'll be OK.

Makes complete sense and I was thinking along those lines as well. Any ideas on what I can use to serve as an extra 1" bump stop spacer?

 

[thejafe]

Rokmen Mercenary Sliders are done! They look great but drilling all those holes was a PITA. Tomorrow I'll get some shots of how they bolt up into the body of the Jeep. For now here's my list of what's left before I declare her ready for the Vermont Overland Rallies & Workshopsevent:

• Mount front bumper/winch.
• Set toe-in.
• Reinstall fender flares.
• Misc painting around rockers and rear bumper.
• Trim bolts securing gas tank to frame

 

[thejafe]

Shot this at the Northeast Overland Rally 2012 in VT . More pics to come!:

 

[thejafe]

Here is my complete album of pics from the Northeast Overland Rally 2012 :

http://www.flickr.com/photos/48160706@N02/sets/72157631625357249/

 

[jscusmcvet]

Awesome. Nice work on your rebuild. Best part now is that you know every single inch of your vehicle. Looks like the vermont trip was fun.

Congrats,

John

 

[jersey96_xj]

Nice rebuild. TJ looks great!

 

[thejafe]

Now that it's summer again and I've got some time spend wrenching I'm planning on upgrading my front track bar to a Currie piece. Also looking to pick up a control pack and Viking 3/8" x 80' line to finish off my winch setup. Control pack will be mounted under the hood, of course :costumed-smiley-007 . Pics to follow when this all goes down :

 

[GP'd]

Andrew, looking good! If I was to do my front track bar again I'd get the Jeepspeed model of it. Requires drilling, but I've already burned through one clevis bushing on my Currie and wish I would've gone to the poly bushing on the axle side.

 

[thejafe]

Andrew, looking good! If I was to do my front track bar again I'd get the Jeepspeed model of it. Requires drilling, but I've already burned through one clevis bushing on my Currie and wish I would've gone to the poly bushing on the axle side.

Interesting. Thanks, G. I'm, gonna look into that .

 

[GP'd]

Interesting. Thanks, G. I'm, gonna look into that .

Sure thing! It didn't exist when I ordered mine. I need to check in to see if the bushing fits the clevis style threaded housing on the standard one.



http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=3488

Part #: CE-9120TJJ
Our Price:$319.95
Description: The all new and improved Johnny Joint® trac bar for the TJ/XJ/LJ/MJ features an offset Johnny Joint® rod end that puts the bar further forward providing more clearance between the diff and the trac bar. Other features include 1 1/4" x .250 wall 4130 chrome moly construction, a welded in gusset from the bar to the Johnny Joint®, heavy duty adjustor end with urethane bushing and steel insert sleeve, and semi-gloss black powder coat finish. Some drilling is required for installation. The supplied frame bolt is a 5/8", and the supplied housing bolt is 1/2". Both of these holes must be drilled to size to accommodate the heavier duty hardware. A heavy duty nut plate kit is supplied for the housing end. NOTE: This trac bar is intended to be used with a minimum of 2" of lift. It may work on vehicles with less lift with Dana 30 frontends, however, on vehicles with no lift and a Dana 44, 9" or 60 frontend, you may run into a clearance issue. Always check fitment before drilling!

Unit of Measure: Sold each.