Plastic Headlight Renewal or Restoration products?

[Clutch]

I've yet to come across any that I couldn't get the "yellow" out of, though badly yellowed ones do certainly require considerable elbow grease to get them clear like new again (like 600 grit wet-sanding, followed by 1500 or 2000 grit, and then finally a plastic polish or restoration product of some kind).

They will still have a tinge of yellow when you compare them side by side with a brand new one.

Oh yes, elbow grease...time is money as they say.

Next mod is going back to glass.

 

[Hilldweller]

The protective films all take away LUX and that gets worse over time.

 

[Co-opski]

So I took the old Milwaukee drill to them with the 3M kit and they did clean up better than they were. Heck it was just a $25 mod and I will not even get to use them till the end of August when we start to get dark again. One of those things when you are a driveway mechanic and it is winter 8 months a year you just kind of jump into projects.
The kit cleared up the haze but left a few deep nicks from stones.

As for glass it does have better optics, but it comes at a cost and not as durable. I put stone guards on all my glass lenses but in the slushy snow and road grime it makes cleaning impossible.

 

[4x4junkie]

Glass definitely keeps it's clarity, no doubt.

They will still have a tinge of yellow when you compare them side by side with a brand new one.

I'm not so sure about that (at least within the lens itself)... The only tinge i could tell afterward in a set of pretty yellowed lights on a Ranger was from the glue or caulk or whatever it is they use to bond the clear lens to the rear housing had turned a bit beige from the sun (which wouldn't affect the light beam)... Maybe this is what you saw?
They seemed just as crystal clear and glittery as ones that were less than a year old (I used the wet-sand method I described above on them).

And I'll gladly put 20-30 minutes time into it rather than spend $100 each on new ones (I don't buy cheap china aftermarket ones). So yeah, it's actually: "time saves money".

 

[Clutch]

Glass definitely keeps it's clarity, no doubt.




I'm not so sure about that (at least within the lens itself)... The only tinge i could tell afterward in a set of pretty yellowed lights on a Ranger was from the glue or caulk or whatever it is they use to bond the clear lens to the rear housing had turned a bit beige from the sun (which wouldn't affect the light beam)... Maybe this is what you saw?
They seemed just as crystal clear and glittery as ones that were less than a year old (I used the wet-sand method I described above on them).

And I'll gladly put 20-30 minutes time into it rather than spend $100 each on new ones (I don't buy cheap china aftermarket ones). So yeah, it's actually: "time saves money".

I couldn't get the yellow out as much as I tried, why I bought new ones. Perhaps you're more patient than me.

Now I need to go comb the salvage yards for an early Tacoma grill assembly.

Co-opski: No worries about slush down here, but yes stone guards are a must.

 

[Stroverlander]

The protective films all take away LUX and that gets worse over time.

I prefer the increased protection from damage and yellowing/hazing/pitting.

I know you're a headlight guru so I'd be interested in any additional details you can provide on the subject as I've never seen any real testing/comparison data with and without headlight protection film. Thanks!

 

[Hilldweller]

I prefer the increased protection from damage and yellowing/hazing/pitting.

I know you're a headlight guru so I'd be interested in any additional details you can provide on the subject as I've never seen any real testing/comparison data with and without headlight protection film. Thanks!

Even the best films reduce output considerably. The percentage is relative to too many variables to give a blanket amount but I've seen as much as 25% loss.
Sometimes it can be worth it though. Like if you're traveling and break a light; it could be argued that it would've been better to have had 900 LUX rather than 1050 LUX and still have your light. You can't pick your place of failure, can you? And it's not always easy or possible to buy a spare.

There is ongoing research into the plastics for headlights. But the test criteria to get a new material approved is lengthy and expensive.

Some vehicles have lots and lots of options ---- like a Jeep with a 7" round headlight. You can easily carry an entire assembly as a spare.
But for most of us that just won't work. Big bulky cumbersome plastic assemblies that are OE-specific dealership items with plastic covers that are prone to hazing, crazing, pitting, scratching, and other long-term deterioration.
I've seen headlights that look more like nightlights than vehicular forward lighting. And some people take that poor piece of equipment and make it worse by sticking a rebased HID capsule into it; that turns it into a glare producing weapon.

 

[lilkia]

Ive used the sandpaper method and it worked pretty well. This year I bought the Turtle wax kit. It comes with sanding pads(surprise) a clarifying (buffing)compound, a lubricant to use with the sanding pads, and a sealer. I did my K2500, my wifes Legacy, and my Kia Sporty. The truck and sporty lights were real cloudy, her legacy was so so before I started. The kit worked amazingly well. I did the sanding and compounding on all three, then the sealer at one time since they only give you one sealer wipe. They honestly look like new now. It even cleared up the yellow. I followed the instructions but I spent longer sanding then what the instructions recomend. It took about 15-20 minutes per car. The sealer really finishes it off. Its been a couple of monthes and they still look great. Ill see if I can put up a pic or two.

 

[Hilldweller]

I'd love to test the light output of a restored headlight.
Just a 25 foot dead-on LUX. Compare it against other similar new lights.
A before/after would be better if anybody is close by and still in the cloudy condition.

Where's Scott? This would be good for OJ.

 

[Vegasrandall]

lens

try wiping them with transmission fluid on a rag.

 

[Hilldweller]

try wiping them with transmission fluid on a rag.

I wouldn't recommend that.
Don't ever put anything of a petrochemical nature on any plastic.
See here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crazing
This includes most commercial hydrophobic applications like Rain-X, etc. Some are "plastic friendly" but I'd check with the headlight manufacturer.

Better to stick with Plexus or something similar.

 

[Rattler]

I noticed my '04 Tacoma headlights were looking a little hazed yesterday (no yellowing). I run the Sylvania Silverstars and notice when they start to haze some. I went through my autocare products and found some Meguire's paint cleaner. With a little elbow grease they came out fine. I followed with some Meguire's paint finish (basically a wax) for a clean up. With the exception of a little dirt inside them from a submersion or 2, they came out great.

I have heard of using toothpaste, light rubbing compound and a wheel polish too.

 

[goodtimes]

I couldn't get the yellow out as much as I tried, why I bought new ones. Perhaps you're more patient than me.

I ended up replacing the lights on the Dodge for the same reason. The sanding/polishing trick worked well on the outside surface of the lights, but the inside surface was discolored as well.

 

[Hilldweller]

A couple of good threads on headlight plastic:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...untain-of-Youth-and-Headlamp-Lens-Restoration
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?361221-Best-way-to-keep-headlights-from-oxidizing
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...eadlight-restoration-new-uv-sealant-idea.html