Gov't Mule - M101A3 multipurpose trailer build

[Scoutman]

While I didn't weld an opposing wedge to the chain mount, I did grind one into the bushing. Thanks for the good idea. My other plan was to counter bore the wedge to be perpendicular to the bolt hole and have the bushing sit in that recess.

Here's what I came up with. My McMaster 3/4" hardware is coming in this afternoon and after I dry fit everything to the truck then I'll figure out where the chains need to go. Yes, RaginarD I do want to keep the larger loop in the chains as I too have found that to be the best place for the hooks to go.



So in my few hours I got in the shop last night I also pulled the tail lights to check on their condition. I was surprised at how clean and in good shape they were. I cleaned the lenses and swapped the bulbs for 12v ones and then hooked a power supply up to test them out. I was also surprised at how bright they and replacing the tail lights has been scratched off my list.



Here's the pin-out on converting your lights to 12v with a standard COTS plug. I'm thinking of putting all the wire connections/junctions into an ammo can mounted on the frame rail instead of under the sheetmetal cover. That way I can also put junctions for things like a 12v socket, USB plug, and backup circuit.

 

[cyclic]

if you are changing the plug to a standard 7 way, you can wire in the bottom black out lights to the reverse circuit very easily. It will use the same bulb that you installed in the upper socket, all you have to do is pull the little cover over the opening that blocks the light. Almost free upgrade.

Also, when you weld on the chain mount, make sure you weld it to the bottom of the tongue. IF the hitch fails (unlikely, but that's why the chains are there), the safety chains are more likely to work rather than just pull off of the top of the tongue.

 

[Scoutman]

if you are changing the plug to a standard 7 way, you can wire in the bottom black out lights to the reverse circuit very easily. It will use the same bulb that you installed in the upper socket, all you have to do is pull the little cover over the opening that blocks the light. Almost free upgrade.

Also, when you weld on the chain mount, make sure you weld it to the bottom of the tongue. IF the hitch fails (unlikely, but that's why the chains are there), the safety chains are more likely to work rather than just pull off of the top of the tongue.

The chain mount bushing will go through the tongue. It's just sitting on top for pictures sake. I'll take a hole saw to the tongue, run the bushing through, clock the taper slightly forward and then weld the bushing to the tongue tube.

As for the backup lights, I'm not sure I follow. Are you saying that the lower portion of the light housing can be made to be backup lights? Are you talking about the few LED's that are at the bottom? What little cover do I need to remove? How much light will it put out?

 

[Mark Harley]

https://parts.pjtrailers.com/180410.html

 

[wrooster]

How did you get the light covers so clean? Mine have a bunch of army tan over spray and nothing seems to help remove it. I also would like to see the led to reverse light trick. Has anyone ever posted up what it looks like when done?

 

[Scoutman]

How did you get the light covers so clean? Mine have a bunch of army tan over spray and nothing seems to help remove it. I also would like to see the led to reverse light trick. Has anyone ever posted up what it looks like when done?

I didn't have any paint on the lens for starters. All I did was use a little bit of simple green to clean the dust, dirt, whatever off of them.

 

[Scoutman]

How did you get the light covers so clean? Mine have a bunch of army tan over spray and nothing seems to help remove it. I also would like to see the led to reverse light trick. Has anyone ever posted up what it looks like when done?

This does look pretty easy. I'll pull the covers off again and check this out the next time I'm in the shop.
http://www.flashoffroad.com/Accessories/MilLights/MilitaryRear.htm

 

[cyclic]

You could do either mid or lower bulbs, or even both. Turning them into reverse lights is stupid easy. On the cover, cut and or pry out the plates blocking the clear lens. On mine (as with most all of them), the mid cover was a deep red and the bottom one was basically solid. Mine just pried out with a thin flat tip screw driver, but just remove what ever is blocking the clear lens. Those LED assemblies come right out, I wasn't worried about saving them so I pulled off the LED plate part, cut the connecting wires, and then used needle nose pliers to remove the bulb base. Which is exactly the same small base bulb type as the top bulb for both of them. Finish up by testing which wires at the harness end light up the bulbs, connect the to the reverse circuit and your done.
They won't "light up" the trail, but will help a little and it definitely helps those behind you know your backing up. And as I said, other than labor and the bulbs, it's a no cost upgrade.

 

[Scoutman]

Hardware and pins arrived!

 

[usafjake]

I'm usually a lurker here and never post but I had to when I saw these pictures. I grew up going to lake Conasauga and that brought back a ton of memories. I grew up in Eton, Georgia. At the foot of Grassy Mountain.

The camping trip to get the trailer. We took off on a friday evening and camped out on Conasauga Lake for the night before heading up to Copperhill, TN.

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[Scoutman]

I'm usually a lurker here and never post but I had to when I saw these pictures. I grew up going to lake Conasauga and that brought back a ton of memories. I grew up in Eton, Georgia. At the foot of Grassy Mountain.

Glad I could bring back some memories for you. We enjoyed our short stay and took backroads to Copperhill. Its definitely an area I want to explore more.

 

[Scoutman]

The pins above are for removing the front rail wall without tools. It makes removing the wall sections a 3 part job instead of getting tools and extra hands involved. Just pull the 1/2" pins on the front 2 corners and take the front wall off then remove the other two. Also if you want better visibility you can leave the front wall off and fold the rear gates back.

I dove into the lights again last night.

Here's what we started with.


Here's with the IR/Low visibility bulbs engaged. You can see them with no lens with the naked eye but it's not very bright.


And here's the #97 bulb in place...


So here's how to get the old bulbs out. At first it appears that there isn't any room to push and twist these circuit cards out. After looking more, in the center of each card there is a place for a flat tipped screwdriver. For the bottom card with the LED's on it, the front half of the card must be popped open to reveal the slot. For the second up card, there is a hole in the middle of the card that if you look inside is a slot for the screwdriver. A quick left turn and they pop right out.

 

[Scoutman]

And lastly, the lens. Like mentioned in the link and post above, you must remove the red lens cover. In my case it was a couple of screws and it lifted right out. Now that's it's out I have to figure out some sort of spacer to keep pressure on the clear lens to keep it engaged to the rubber seal in the lens housing. Needs to be 1/8"-3/16" thick.

 

[RagnarD]

Great job. I will add it this to the list of things I would do if starting over again.

 

[Scoutman]

And playing around with the tongue layout. The tan box is repurposed and I'll build a metal rack for the cooler.