Fire Extinguisher?

[jerstw]

For those of you that carry one do you have a favorite version, brand, size, etc.? Just trying to build out the camping / expedition kit for the truck and realized I am lacking one of these. My only criteria, if it matters, is it needs to be functional in outside temps ranging from -50F to 100F.

Thanks!

 

[ZMagic97]

I have a few Kidde brand ones between the vehicles and home. Never needed to use one but they seem robust. Most hardware stores seem to have them.

 

[PhulesAU]

A couple 10 pounders will go a long way when you need them.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

I only carry one, and it is an Amerex 2.5 pound Halon, mounted next to the driver's seat so I can grab it on my way out of the cab. Halon is getting scarce and expensive (banned I think, so will eventually go away). Halotron is the new substitute, but not as efficient as Halon. There are all kinds of chemical extinguishers out there, so study up. The Amerex site has lots of good info on the pros and cons of each type. The only two problems I see with the hardware store extinguishers are plastic and plastic. Plastic nozzles that will break if you accidentally kick them and plastic brackets that may be fine for hanging on a wall but that may not hold up in a vehicle accident. You don't want that pressurized metal tube coming loose if you roll the truck, so it's probably a good idea to invest in a metal bracket with positive retention.

Re Halon and Halotron, those seem to make sense in a modern vehicle because they are designed to not damage sensitive electronics when deployed. If you can carry two units, Halon is good for the truck itself and something like Purple K is good for other stuff.

 

[landsharkman]

I carry two 1.5 lb H3R Performance HG100C HalGuard mounted on the side of the rear seat

 

[NYresQ]

I did 23 years in the fire service, so I speak with a little experience.

A 5lb Amerex ABC extinguisher will do for most things. if you have a camper or toy hauler, then I would get a 10lb. Larger than that becomes cumbersome, and if you cant put it out with 10lbs of ABC powder, you need to get everyone away and call the fire department.

And Halon is no good for most fires in cars. Doesnt work for class A or B fires and unless you disconnect the battery first, wont work on class C fires.

Halon gas works on the principle of blocking the oxygen from feeding the fire. It doesnt remove heat like water or CO2, and it doesnt coat and block like dry powder. As soon as the halon gas is dissapated or blown away by the wind outside, the heat and burining material is free to re-ignite.

Places like computer rooms use Halon because its a closed space and when the system activates, it shuts down the HVAC system and floods the room. Same with the US Navy (who is the largest user of Halon in the world) Seal the compartment and flood it with Halon, fire goes out, and then wait till it cools down before you open the hatch.

if you have a fire in your car, the last thing you will think about is damage to your sterio. You will want to put the fire out quickly and effectively to insure it doesn't flare up again in 15 seconds when the Halon disapates.

 

[jerstw]

Thank you everyone for the input on this. Going to do a bit of measuring on space to hold the extinguisher before I get one ordered up.

 

[Happy Joe]

... haven't had a vehicle fire... yet (crosses fingers).
I have worn out (carried them until the pressure went away) a number of the mid sized powder (less than 10 pound) kidde extinguishers carrying them in vehicles (shake them and check the pressure every 6 months). The only plastic part that has ever broken was the pin that keeps the handle from being squeezed (to prevent accidental discharge). I typically replace these with a spring pin from the farm/hardware store.

Be aware that these extinguishers do not last long in use.

I too keep the extinguisher next to the seat; in the jeep on the right hand side, in the truck next to the door.

Over years, off road, I have seen a number of vehicle engine fires (when far from my vehicle) most in carbureted vehicles and most were put out with dirt/sand.

Enjoy!

 

[Ducky's Dad]

if you have a fire in your car, the last thing you will think about is damage to your sterio.

The stereo is $200. I am more concerned about the thousands of dollars worth of factory electronics in the ECU, body module, etc.

 

[Louisd75]

Places like computer rooms use Halon because its a closed space and when the system activates, it shuts down the HVAC system and floods the room. Same with the US Navy (who is the largest user of Halon in the world) Seal the compartment and flood it with Halon, fire goes out, and then wait till it cools down before you open the hatch.

if you have a fire in your car, the last thing you will think about is damage to your sterio. You will want to put the fire out quickly and effectively to insure it doesn't flare up again in 15 seconds when the Halon disapates.

They've been moving away from Halon and going to straight CO2 for fixed fire fighting systems on board ships. I believe that it is still commonly used for aviation engines though. Halon has the nasty characteristic of breaking down into Phosgene gas when exposed to flame, so if you do use it to fight a fire make sure you've got some breathing room.

I've got a 5lb dry chem that I keep behind the driver's seat in the truck

 

[comptiger5000]

They've been moving away from Halon and going to straight CO2 for fixed fire fighting systems on board ships. I believe that it is still commonly used for aviation engines though. Halon has the nasty characteristic of breaking down into Phosgene gas when exposed to flame, so if you do use it to fight a fire make sure you've got some breathing room.

Halon will suffocate a person in a confined space regardless. For datacenters, FM200 has become a common Halon replacement. There's usually big strobes with warning signs next to them that basically say "if this alarm goes off, you have 30 seconds to get the heck out of the room!" After that 30 seconds, you get the FM200 / Halon dump, which snuffs humans just as well as it snuffs fires.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

The ECU & such is a sealed container.

I just had to change the body module on my Tundra a few weeks ago, and it was not well sealed.

 

[Sabre]

...shake them and check the pressure every 6 months....

Former fire service officer here. I agree wholeheartedly with NYresQ's statement that ABC dry chem extinguishers make the most sense for vehicle carry.

Also, what Happy Joe said needs an echo. Over time in a moving vehicle the extremely fine dry chemical powder packs down into a solid block. If you don't regularly turn, roll and shake your extinguisher, you may find that you get nothing but a "fffffffffftttttt" sound when you need it the most.

 

[landsharkman]

Well I guess I will just carry both my halgaurd and a standard dry powder abc 5lb

 

[Louisd75]

Halon will suffocate a person in a confined space regardless.

This isn't very likely to happen in a vehicle fire unless you're trying to fight it from inside the vehicle. Phosgene will always be a byproduct and it really doesn't take much exposure to ruin or end your life. It does a number on your lungs and was the main cause of death during the chemical warfare part of WWI.

Well I guess I will just carry both my halgaurd and a standard dry powder abc 5lb

FWIW, I'd personally leave the halguard and only take the powder. It'll save confusion, especially if you're in a position of where you're telling someone to grab the extinguisher. The time you'll take trying to figure out which class of fire you're trying to put out in the engine compartment could be used applying an extinguisher that works for all of the common fires you'll deal with on a vehicle (unless you drive an old VW, but that's a different animal)