Need input on battery charger

[zelatore]

I would like to know where they are coming up with 7 Stages. The best smart chargers on the market only advertise 4 stages, and they are:


https://cookfb.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/electrical-power-for-the-overland-camper-the-problem.pdf

I agree - I just visited the battery link and let's say I'm a bit dubious of the claims. 125 A/h from what appears to be a group 31? That's...a lot. Most group 31s are more like 100. Lifeline claims 125A/h; Rolls 120A/h, but these are proven, premium batteries - and rather more expensive at that. A brand with a wiz-bang name nobody's ever heard of (OK, at least I've never heard of) making claims of extreme capacity and '7 stage' battery charging gives me pause.

It may well be a great battery, and for the price what the heck might as well try it. Worst case you're out a couple hundred bucks and it's not like changing batteries is all that tough.

 

[kjg26]

Battery is a freebie. I'll talk with ctek today. I really like there system but it is expensive.

 

[kjg26]

spoke with Ctek technician today. The D250S will be what i need once i add solar. From what I understand this will charge my house battery via alternator and solar inputs. It will optimize the charge based on what inputs are available and "best". As of right now i think i'll get a Minn Kota MK230PC. This will allow me to charge my current single battery at 15 amps, could add another battery and charge it at the same rate. They states you can charge two batteries that are independent, parallel, or in series with this charger.

 

[patoz]

When you add a second battery, are you planning on running a dual bank (one 12V battery in each) system or a single bank (two 12V batteries in parallel) system?

Unless you're planning on running a dual bank system, you don't need a dual bank charger. Since a single bank system (with two or more batteries) is treated as one large battery, a single bank charger is all you need. Also, the 15A Minn Kota MK230PC is still too small to put the amperage back in to replace what you will draw down each day when camping and using your 12V appliances, lights, etc. If all you're going to use it for is to charge and maintain the battery(s) while it sitting in the driveway, 15 Amps will be fine because there is no time limit and no constant amp load trying to draw the battery(s) down.

They states you can charge two batteries that are independent, parallel, or in series with this charger.

However, their statement is somewhat misleading.

A dual bank charger is basically two independent chargers mounted in a single enclosure. This is why you can charge different types and sizes at the same time. You can charge two 12V identical batteries (same type, size, & age) in parallel with one or each bank (set of leads) from the charger. You can also charge two 6V identical batteries (same type, size, & age) in series with one or each bank (set of leads) from the charger.

What you CAN NOT do is charge two 12V batteries in series with one or each bank (set of leads) from the charger, since you now have a 24V battery connected to a 12V charger.

 

[dwh]

Of those you listed in the OP, I'd go with the Noco G26000. 26a vs. the MK's 15a (per battery/bank). 14.8v bulk (when set to AGM mode) vs. the MK's 14.4v. Can also operate as a 5a regulated DC power supply. Has a "jump mode" (30a for 5 minutes) to get a dead car started. Has automatic pulsing step to break up sulfation. Also has on-board temp compensation.

Your battery will be happier (live longer) with a punchier charger.

Here's the manual:

https://no.co/media/nocodownloads/format/g/2/g26000-user-guide.pdf



When you add the second battery, just rig an ACR like the Samlex ACR-160:

http://www.donrowe.com/Samlex-ACR-160-Automatic-Charge-Isolator-p/acr-160.htm

Which will auto-connect the two batteries when the Noco is running and charge them both - and will let you force-tie the batteries if you need to run them as a single bank.

 

[dwh]

What you CAN NOT do is charge two 12V batteries in series with one or each bank (set of leads) from the charger, since you now have a 24V battery connected to a 12V charger.

Not exactly. What you'd have is 2 12v chargers connected to 2 12v batteries. It would only be a 24v battery if you connected at the ends of the series string instead of in the middle.

 

[patoz]

Not exactly. What you'd have is 2 12v chargers connected to 2 12v batteries. It would only be a 24v battery if you connected at the ends of the series string instead of in the middle.

Correct!

I may not have been clear, but in my statement I was referring to 2 12V batteries wired in series connected to the Charger's Bank #1 leads, and 2 12V batteries wired in series connected to the Charger's Bank #2 leads, for a total of 4 batteries as you would see in a dual bank system using 6V batteries and separated by a manual battery switch or an ACR.

Some people don't fully understand the difference in series and parallel, so I wanted to clear that up.

This is where one picture, or diagram, is worth several hundred words!

 

[kjg26]

What other suggestions do yall have. I will only ever have one bank. May run several on parallel but never more than one bank. Want something rugid. Want something I'll not need to replace. I think the biggest function this will have is at home but I want it to not be a slouch if I want to replenish the batteries while out.

 

[dwh]

Does it actually need to be waterproof? If not, then you can't go wrong with the tried and true - Iota charger plus the IQ/4 add-on multi-stage brain:

http://www.iotaengineering.com/dls45.htm


http://www.iotaengineering.com/iq.htm

(Ignore what it says about an EQ stage with the IQ/4 controller. In Iota-speak, that just means that every 7 days at float, it will run through a quick bulk/absorb just make sure the battery is fully topped up. It doesn't actually have the ability to do a true equalization.)

 

[kjg26]

So I would need both a charger and iq4 smart module? Are these rugged? Designed for bouncing around? Don't need waterproof as it will be inside a tongue box.

 

[dwh]

They sell both with the IQ/4 separate, or built-in. As for rugged...there's about a gajillion of them installed in campers and RVs. Call 'em and ask.

Or just get that Noco 26000, I like the specs on that one quite a bit.

 

[patoz]

(Ignore what it says about an EQ stage with the IQ/4 controller. In Iota-speak, that just means that every 7 days at float, it will run through a quick bulk/absorb just make sure the battery is fully topped up. It doesn't actually have the ability to do a true equalization.)

IOTA specifically states:

EQUALIZATION STAGE

If the batteries remain in a "float stage" for a seven-day period, the IQ4 will switch the DLS charger into a pre-programmed Equalization Stage. This protects the life of your battery by dissolving any sulfate layer on the battery's internal plates and avoids stratification that can occur when a battery has not been in use for extended periods.

http://www.iotaengineering.com/iq.htm

So why do you say that, and what is your information based on?

I know you have been at this much longer than I have, so I'm not doubting your word. However, I have the 75A version and a friend has the 55A version, both with the built in IQ4 Smart Controller. We were both under the impression these were true 4 Stage Chargers, so I would really like to know.

 

[Airmapper]

I have a NOCO, a CTEK, an Odyssey, a Harbor Freight float charger, and if I need it my Dad's Black&Decker. (Not that I'd ever need it.....)

Honestly, I couldn't tell you for sure if any of those are better than the next.

I use the NOCO for small AGM batteries, ATV, Lawn Mower, and a project battery I keep around. Far as I can tell it's wonderful, plug it up and leave it be, unhook it sometime if you remember to, or not. (It's a 3500, 3.5amp) My ATV battery is a pain to get to, so I have their matching connector battery indicator attached permanently, that's handy as the pocket on a shirt, look down, if it's not blinking green, plug it up.

The CTEK 25000 (25amp) I used on my Odyssey 2150 until I found a actual 50 amp Odyssey charger I bought from a member here. It's the only charger I found that would even acknowledge the 2150 wasn't full on connection. I haven't used it on any other batteries, I've told my Dad to bring me any of his batteries if they are low, so I've yet to try to bring anything back to life. What I also like about the CTEK is it's a 25amp power supply at the push of a button, so it can run HAM radios and any 12V junk that doesn't pull a ton. I don't need to dig out a battery to run stuff in a garage full of outlets. (It's kinda cool to hear the fans kick up on it when you key the mic on a radio set to 50 amps.)

So I don't think you would go wrong with a NOCO or a CTEK, but I'm no expert, just a fool who has spent a lot of money on battery chargers, and still hates batteries.

 

[dwh]

http://www.iotaengineering.com/pplib/iq4spec.pdf

"The Equalization Stage will cycle the battery through the Bulk and Absorption Stages before returning the battery to the Float Stage."

(Page 2, right side just below the voltage table.)

 

[dwh]

I may not have been clear, but in my statement I was referring to 2 12V batteries wired in series connected to the Charger's Bank #1 leads

Ah. Yea. I just re-parsed your statement and now I see you were talking about one set of leads. I take back everything nasty I've said about you over the years. (well...most of it anyway...)