First, I have to admit I'm a Toyota loyalist. But, I've been passing a 94 ZJ on the way home for a week. Stopped last night and went for a short test drive, and would've bought it, except that the owner had someone in line in front of me for today. He's going to call me back if the guy doesn't take it. It's a 94, 4.0 with 269k miles, and has been in one family since new. Looking to get it for $1000-1200. My main concern is an alert popped up on the 4wd display screen saying "service 4wd button", and I really couldn't tell if it was engaging in 4hi/4 part time. It locked in 4lo fine, and had a little gear grind going back to 4hi, similar to what you find in old vehicles.This would be a secondary vehicle that would be driven 40 miles a week just because, and then the occasional trip off road. Our primary family camping vehicle is our 01 4Runner, that is my wife's daily. I'm not real familiar with these, so any input is appreciated
94 Grand Cherokee questions
- Thread starter dport
- Start date
Mitch502
Explorer
The linkage for the 4wd stuff is a joke. Lol. It's got like 3 or 4 pivot points and is terrible to mess with. It can be adjusted which will probably fix your problem, and that is pretty simple to do. Even if it was the transfer case, they're commonly available. My local junkyards charge between $75-100 for one (u-pull places) and swapping is very easy. Also, you're supposed to be moving when shifting into the 4 wheel drives (I think my manual says "Any legal speed"), except 4LO, I think it's like between 5-15 MPH or something. The 4.0 is strong, especially the older ones from what I remember...269K miles is a lot for anything though. $1000 for something that runs and drives is usually never a bad deal though.
comptiger5000
Adventurer
The "Service 4wd Switch" message just means the sensor that tells the display it's in 4wd isn't working. It doesn't mean anything about the actual state of 4wd.
For 4hi, shift while driving straight. Let off the gas, shift and lightly re-apply throttle and it should engage / disengage. For 4lo, you want to be rolling 2 - 3 mph with the trans in neutral. It can be done at a stop as well, although it's easier to shift with the engine off if you have to get into 4lo while stopped.
For 4hi, shift while driving straight. Let off the gas, shift and lightly re-apply throttle and it should engage / disengage. For 4lo, you want to be rolling 2 - 3 mph with the trans in neutral. It can be done at a stop as well, although it's easier to shift with the engine off if you have to get into 4lo while stopped.
Mitch502
Explorer
Also, the wiring for any transfer case is behind the VIC (screen down by the shifter if it's equipped) or just down there. Just unplug and plug in a different connector that's already there. What t-case does it have? Is it AWD all the time with 4hi/lo options? Or is it 2wd-4hi-n-4 part time-4 full time?
Thanks for your input. Just got a text 2 minutes ago that the other guy backed out. Probably going to be in trouble....lol
It seemed to drive fine, maybe needs a little maintenance in the steering, or it could've just been the worn tires on the front. Transmission seemed a little soft, but once again, I don't have a lot of experience with them. A little oil leaking isn't going to bother me, as it will only serve as a backup 4wd for me on days that my wife is working and I want to escape town on some forest roads.
It seemed to drive fine, maybe needs a little maintenance in the steering, or it could've just been the worn tires on the front. Transmission seemed a little soft, but once again, I don't have a lot of experience with them. A little oil leaking isn't going to bother me, as it will only serve as a backup 4wd for me on days that my wife is working and I want to escape town on some forest roads.
Mitch502
Explorer
Thanks! The trans could be soft with that many miles, but they do ride exceptionally nice (I always tell people there is a reason they're "the most awarded SUV ever"). The steering boxes have a allen screw/bolt on top that can tighten the steering box. Or you can upgrade to a closer ration Durango box that is a direct swap (I think, you'd have to double check on the year...it was a direct swap for my 98)
Oil leak is most likely a rear main. It's 2 piece and can actually be replaced by dropping the oil pan and rear bearing cap and not removing the whole motor. BleepinJeep did a video on it for a Cherokee, but it should be the same procedure I would think (again, please research) for a ZJ. Post up pictures when you get it! My first ZJ was my second car. It was a 94 with 235K miles on it when I sold it. I loved it, but the Trans had been replaced 3 times according to the previous owner, and was starting to slip about a year and a half after I got it. I considered it "the one that got away" until I bought the 5.9.
Oil leak is most likely a rear main. It's 2 piece and can actually be replaced by dropping the oil pan and rear bearing cap and not removing the whole motor. BleepinJeep did a video on it for a Cherokee, but it should be the same procedure I would think (again, please research) for a ZJ. Post up pictures when you get it! My first ZJ was my second car. It was a 94 with 235K miles on it when I sold it. I loved it, but the Trans had been replaced 3 times according to the previous owner, and was starting to slip about a year and a half after I got it. I considered it "the one that got away" until I bought the 5.9.
Mitch502
Explorer
Here is a link to the t case adjustment...scroll to the bottom of the post(s?)....It's there somewhere...
http://www.nagca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39318
http://www.nagca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39318
Mitch502
Explorer
Nice! If you're going to get tires for it, and want to replace some of the suspension, do a few things:
1) The V8 tie rod and V8 sway bar will make you feel a lot better, both are around 1/8" thicker, which will make a HUGE difference. Other than having to buy the V8 rod end and correct sway bar bushing, they should be direct bolt ins.
2) 2" budget boost with shocks is only around $100 on ebay and will allow you to run 31"x10" (I think, might be 9.5") without rubbing.
3) WJ front lower control arms are tubular, and are angled to prevent rubbing, worth buying these if you want to replace the LCA/bushings
4) Down the road, look at MallCrawlin and research the 99+ intake manifold swap. It's a bolt on and adds something like 15HP (They dyno tested it for proof)
5) With 270K miles, injectors are poop. Lol. Get yourself a junkyard set of 700 series injectors and you'll like your idle/throttle response a lot better.
6) ENJOY falling in love with it:beer:
1) The V8 tie rod and V8 sway bar will make you feel a lot better, both are around 1/8" thicker, which will make a HUGE difference. Other than having to buy the V8 rod end and correct sway bar bushing, they should be direct bolt ins.
2) 2" budget boost with shocks is only around $100 on ebay and will allow you to run 31"x10" (I think, might be 9.5") without rubbing.
3) WJ front lower control arms are tubular, and are angled to prevent rubbing, worth buying these if you want to replace the LCA/bushings
4) Down the road, look at MallCrawlin and research the 99+ intake manifold swap. It's a bolt on and adds something like 15HP (They dyno tested it for proof)
5) With 270K miles, injectors are poop. Lol. Get yourself a junkyard set of 700 series injectors and you'll like your idle/throttle response a lot better.
6) ENJOY falling in love with it:beer:
comptiger5000
Adventurer
The Durango box is actually slower than the stock ZJ box (ZJ box is 12.7:1 ratio, fastest commonly available 700 series Saginaw box).
Also, if you're willing to trim a little, a skinny 32 like a 235/85R16 will fit with a 2" lift.
Also, if you're willing to trim a little, a skinny 32 like a 235/85R16 will fit with a 2" lift.
Mitch502
Explorer
Hmm, are there different versions? The Durango box in my ZJ made a huge difference in turning?
comptiger5000
Adventurer
Difference in what sense? The Durango box is stronger and should be easier to turn, but you'll have more turns lock to lock (stock is around 3, Durango box should be closer to 3.5).