Questions on the installing a Yakima Rack on Leer Shell

[kcdeming]

Hey Guys!

I have decided to install a Yakima rack on my 100XQ Leer that is currently mounted to my 2013 F150 and cannot seem to find any information on the install. The route I will be taking is permanently mounting 4 of the Yakima Landing Pad 6 and then use 4 Yakima Control Towers with my round crossbars I already own. I guess my main concerns are where on the shell I should mount these supports that will displace the weight evenly? Since there are no identifying marks on the top I am not sure where to start. Also what sort of sealant should be used to properly seal the holes I am about the make?

Any suggestions or person experience would be great appreciated!

 

[Sparse Gray Hackle]

I use the gutter style clips on both of my Leer canopies, but from a strength perspective, I don't believe it matters much where you locate any style mount. On the 2014 F350, there is a height difference, where the back of the canopy is an inch or two higher than the front. The F150 canopy may not do that (my 2007 Ranger is fine). Just be aware of the potential issue.

I used a sealant called Boat Life. There are others that are great. Call a Leer dealer and ask what they recommend.

One possible issue when drilling holes is having the bit catch the mouse fur material on the inside. It wraps around the bit and pulls things loose. Try starting with a small bit, then progressively larger.

If you think you might need different spacing for things where lengths are different, say canoes versus bikes, consider track style mounts.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

I have had the Yak track mounts on a couple of fiberglass shells for eleven and 18 years, respectively. I used longer stainless screws than Yak supplied, sealed the holes with clear RTV silicone available at any parts store. These racks have had up to 1100 pounds on them, never a leak.

Lay out your hole pattern from inside the shell to be sure you catch the strongest parts of the fiberglass and that you have flat areas to seat the Yak washers.

 

[kcdeming]

Great point on the drill, I can easily see that being an issue. I thought about the track system but feared it wasn't as strong as the fixed mounts. I've contacted Leer a couple times with a couple questions and they haven't been the easiest to work with or give more than 3 word answers.

I use the gutter style clips on both of my Leer canopies, but from a strength perspective, I don't believe it matters much where you locate any style mount. On the 2014 F350, there is a height difference, where the back of the canopy is an inch or two higher than the front. The F150 canopy may not do that (my 2007 Ranger is fine). Just be aware of the potential issue.

I used a sealant called Boat Life. There are others that are great. Call a Leer dealer and ask what they recommend.

One possible issue when drilling holes is having the bit catch the mouse fur material on the inside. It wraps around the bit and pulls things loose. Try starting with a small bit, then progressively larger.

If you think you might need different spacing for things where lengths are different, say canoes versus bikes, consider track style mounts.

 

[kcdeming]

Glad to hear that you have had great success with your track mounts. I feared they wouldn't be as strong as a fixed mount but it sounds like they can hold a serious load. The idea behind this rack is to hold our RTT. I have heard so many mixed reviews on what will or will not hold. I am giving this mount a shot and it seems iffy I can always brace the cap from inside.

I will go and see about finding that silicone possibly from advanced auto.

I have had the Yak track mounts on a couple of fiberglass shells for eleven and 18 years, respectively. I used longer stainless screws than Yak supplied, sealed the holes with clear RTV silicone available at any parts store. These racks have had up to 1100 pounds on them, never a leak.

Lay out your hole pattern from inside the shell to be sure you catch the strongest parts of the fiberglass and that you have flat areas to seat the Yak washers.

 

[fortel]

Don't have any pics at the moment but I've done the same on two different Leer shells. First time was on a F150 that at 7 years had not leaked a drop through any of the mounting points of my Thule rack feet, now currently 4 years into permanently mounting my cargo basket through the roof of the shell on my Frontier and no leaks to date. Don't skimp on hardware since you don't want to have to be breaking the seals to replace cheap rusting out bolts. I've always used stainless. Plenty of sealant, between the feet and the shell, coating the bolt going through the holes, and between the bottom of the shell and the washers/nuts. You can always wipe off the excess, but its hard to cram more into any voids. Another thing I do is to use big fender washers or a homemade plate to distribute the load against the fiberglass on the inside of the shell from the tightened hardware.

 

[kcdeming]

I guess my biggest question is how far from the edge of the cap do I mount the brackets? I can't find anywhere the spacing from the edges or atleast recommended spacing. Leer has been 0 help. Apparently they have no recommendations on how or where to mount a rack even though they sell racks to be mounted.

Don't have any pics at the moment but I've done the same on two different Leer shells. First time was on a F150 that at 7 years had not leaked a drop through any of the mounting points of my Thule rack feet, now currently 4 years into permanently mounting my cargo basket through the roof of the shell on my Frontier and no leaks to date. Don't skimp on hardware since you don't want to have to be breaking the seals to replace cheap rusting out bolts. I've always used stainless. Plenty of sealant, between the feet and the shell, coating the bolt going through the holes, and between the bottom of the shell and the washers/nuts. You can always wipe off the excess, but its hard to cram more into any voids. Another thing I do is to use big fender washers or a homemade plate to distribute the load against the fiberglass on the inside of the shell from the tightened hardware.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

My shells are all SnugTop, and they have a thick area in the center of the roof that is reinforced with honeycomb material (I think). On my shells, that thick area runs pretty much the full length and width of the shell, and stops on the sides before the roof curves down to meet the sides. It also stops a few inches short of the front and back of the shell. As long as you mount properly to the reinforced center section of the roof, you should be OK. That extra thickness is the primary reason I had to go out and find longer stainless screws to mount the tracks. McMaster Carr should have whatever hardware you need. My shells have headliners, and with a sharp drill bit I had no problem pulling the headliner material. My tracks are about 42" apart, center-to-center. If you want to slide the towers around to accommodate different baskets and boat/bike mounts, be sure to keep the tracks parallel to each other.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

6"x10"x18' douglas fir timbers on standard Yak bars mounted to Yak tracks on the fiberglass shell. Bent the bars pretty badly, but no leaks and no cracks in the shell. FWIW, the Yak bars in the 86" length (only) are heavy duty, with double wall thickness, and take a special end cap, but OD is the same as standard bars. Cut to length to get what you want. I am upgrading both racked trucks to the HD bars.

 

[fortel]

I suspect you will get no advice from Leer since you are modifying their product. My totally unscientific decision was to mount through the thicker part of the roof but close to the point where the shell roof curves down into the sides. My thinking was that this might help with any potential flexing of the top of the shell where it is flatter. Seemed to make sense in my mind. Anyway, four years of use with the basket mounted this way has not produced any leaks or cracking of the fiberglass. Because of the shape of the feet on my cargo basket I also added a flat piece of aluminum to help distribute the load at the mounting points. The white on the bolt ends are closet shelving rubber end caps, helps save my bald head from bleeding when crawling around inside. This probably goes without saying but measure 2, 3, or 4 times and drill once, its hard to undrill a hole in the wrong place.

 

[kcdeming]

Crazy!! I went ahead and mounted them up last night and they seem to work great with the CVT RTT and me in it. Waiting for the wife to come home to see if will hold us both.

View attachment 358263
6"x10"x18' douglas fir timbers on standard Yak bars mounted to Yak tracks on the fiberglass shell. Bent the bars pretty badly, but no leaks and no cracks in the shell. FWIW, the Yak bars in the 86" length (only) are heavy duty, with double wall thickness, and take a special end cap, but OD is the same as standard bars. Cut to length to get what you want. I am upgrading both racked trucks to the HD bars.

 

[kcdeming]

I measured a few times for sure before I committed haha. I ended up using masking tape (pro tip) and it helped. I also went and picked up some Permatex Clear adhesive silicon sealant which should help with the holes.

View attachment 358324View attachment 358325


I suspect you will get no advice from Leer since you are modifying their product. My totally unscientific decision was to mount through the thicker part of the roof but close to the point where the shell roof curves down into the sides. My thinking was that this might help with any potential flexing of the top of the shell where it is flatter. Seemed to make sense in my mind. Anyway, four years of use with the basket mounted this way has not produced any leaks or cracking of the fiberglass. Because of the shape of the feet on my cargo basket I also added a flat piece of aluminum to help distribute the load at the mounting points. The white on the bolt ends are closet shelving rubber end caps, helps save my bald head from bleeding when crawling around inside. This probably goes without saying but measure 2, 3, or 4 times and drill once, its hard to undrill a hole in the wrong place.

 

[kcdeming]

 

[kcdeming]

Not sure why the last photo is turned light that because the original is straight. You guys get the picture.

 

[Regcabguy]

If I ever chuck the popup,I'm getting a Snug Top fiberglass with a contractor upgrade. They add another layer of glass to the roof and sides.