Build Thread: Long time coming
- Thread starter deadly99
- Start date
Good advice, thanks
Did you have hard time shimming them to get the wheels aligned?
Buffalobwana
Observer
Dan, that is one serious nice teardrop. The interior, exterior, all first class.
Did you put a crossbar between your Timbren’s? I have the same axles as you do on a different style trailer. 3500’s with 4” drop. Impressive design. In AK I couldn’t imagine going with anything less than that. Especially with all the hard work you put into that beauty. Well done.
Did you put a crossbar between your Timbren’s? I have the same axles as you do on a different style trailer. 3500’s with 4” drop. Impressive design. In AK I couldn’t imagine going with anything less than that. Especially with all the hard work you put into that beauty. Well done.
No I didn't do a cross member for the timbrens. Wasn't a need for it.
Thanks! Its been a fun build
Ted
Edit: ooops I see you were commenting on someone else's trailer...my bad
highlandercj-7
Explorer
Like the steel framing and aluminum skin. IMHO it's the only way to fly. It will hold up and take abuse. Very nice work.
Buffalobwana
Observer
Ted,
They are definitely needed on the 3500# model with the 4” drop. Maybe yours is different.
I don’t know what you have, so, I’m not saying “you did yours wrong”, or “yours will fail!” I actually considered going without a crossbar on mine until I realized the importance of it.
Picture the forces being put on the frame when hitting bumps. Wheels are outside the frame and being pushed up. Nothing is tying those two wheels together, so they will want to separate, or bow out. The bottom frame bows down, and the walls bow in. (If it’s a teardrop).
So you wind up twisting your side side rails of your frame. They take the brunt of the punishment. Everything attached to them takes a little punishment too.
Will you see it at the end of one trip? One season? 2 years? It all depends on how sturdy every other component is. You may get away with it forever.
There are 2x3 pockets on each of the 3500 lb Timbren axles and I believe they recommend 1/4” wall 2x3 square tubing.
Like most, I didn’t want to do it, because it looks like an axle running across, and I bought an “axle-less” suspension! I felt cheated! Well, not really cheated.
They are definitely needed on the 3500# model with the 4” drop. Maybe yours is different.
I don’t know what you have, so, I’m not saying “you did yours wrong”, or “yours will fail!” I actually considered going without a crossbar on mine until I realized the importance of it.
Picture the forces being put on the frame when hitting bumps. Wheels are outside the frame and being pushed up. Nothing is tying those two wheels together, so they will want to separate, or bow out. The bottom frame bows down, and the walls bow in. (If it’s a teardrop).
So you wind up twisting your side side rails of your frame. They take the brunt of the punishment. Everything attached to them takes a little punishment too.
Will you see it at the end of one trip? One season? 2 years? It all depends on how sturdy every other component is. You may get away with it forever.
There are 2x3 pockets on each of the 3500 lb Timbren axles and I believe they recommend 1/4” wall 2x3 square tubing.
Like most, I didn’t want to do it, because it looks like an axle running across, and I bought an “axle-less” suspension! I felt cheated! Well, not really cheated.
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That's not true at all universally. All depends on the chassis frame design.
Look at eTrailer's description of the three alternatives.
> you wind up twisting your side side rails of your frame.
Not if your frame tubing has lateral members connecting the side rails close to the attachment point. Ideally your support plate is welded to both.
The tubing pockets are only there for when the framing itself is inadequate, e.g. retrofitting on an old or flimsy C channel unit without a crosspiece near the attachment point.
I like the idea of maximum ground clearance between the wheels, could even do a drop floor.
Buffalobwana
Observer
I looked up the Timbren installation guide, and you are right. It’s not necessary. They basically leave it up to you. If you think your trailer is strong enough, leave it out.
This was kind of an assumption since it was a “ground up” build.
When you have a 4” drop axle, a heavy load, you plan on using it in rough terrain, and you have lightweight crossmembers ... then your axle will put a lot of strain on your trailer.
I too like the idea of no cross beam below my trailer.
Anyway, I’m sure it’s fine. I actually learned something by being forced to go back and read the directions again!
This was kind of an assumption since it was a “ground up” build.
When you have a 4” drop axle, a heavy load, you plan on using it in rough terrain, and you have lightweight crossmembers ... then your axle will put a lot of strain on your trailer.
I too like the idea of no cross beam below my trailer.
Anyway, I’m sure it’s fine. I actually learned something by being forced to go back and read the directions again!
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It is painfully easy to keep adding weight to this thing. Trying my best not to do that whenever possible.
