OVRLND CAMPERS ONLY : Post your OVRLND Camper build here or a link to your build thread to inspire others!

dirtnsmores

Member
I have an HCal diesel heater I got on sale for $100 arriving soon. Camper won't be here for a few months. I read some not-so-good reviews about this heater. I won't do a ton of winter camping, just a few trips to the desert in the winter. Do you think something like a Wave 3 would be a better option for simplicity? I do like the idea of being able to run a heater while we sleep.
 

dstefan

Well-known member
Same same, digging up old comments. How much propane does the Vario consume trying to keep you warm overnight?
That’s a bit hard to answer since I haven’t used it a whole lot. Best I can do is a guess. I’ve run this maybe 15 times since install. I think 3 of those have been overnight with the temp set at 42º on the night (eco) setting in outside temps into the mid 30s, but not terribly cold. The rest of the time has been running in the morning and evenings for periods of up to an hour on the auto setting to get to temp (set at 65º) again in temps in upper 30s to mid 40s in the mornings and 50s in the evening.

I’ve used two different tanks — one 5lb and a 10lb.
5lb: Tare weight 11 lbs. Full weight 15.4 lbs. Weight now is 14.6, so used .8 lb. This is the tank that had 2 of the overnights. I also had used this tank for very brief periods with my old catalytic heater, which was very effecient. So maybe .6lb used for the Truma, maybe less.

10lb (aluminum tank, hence the lower weight): Tare — 9.4 lbs; full weight 18.2 lbs (IIRC), current weight 17.0 lbs. This tank has had the bulk of running on high to heat up in the evenings and mornings and some test runs, also on high.

So total use has been 1.8 — 2 lbs. Truma lists the consumption ratesin grams/hr as:
Low/Night: 1300 W (100 g/h) / Mid: 2800 W (220 g/h) / High: 3700 W (290 g/h)

I’ve been PMing with another member with an AT Summit who lives in Leadville and am waiting to hear what his consumption is as he's used his a lot overnight in very cold temps (very happily). I’ll post what I learn.
are you happy with its reliability?
Yes, so far. The only issue has been on initial start up (eg, pulled into camp, pulled out the tank and set up to the outside quick connect) the Truma has thrown a error code indicating no gas. On my older 5lb tank, this did not happen, but on my new 10lb tank it’s been consistent.

Appears to be a new style OPD valve auto shut off known issue on the tank, not the Truma. More careful attention to the hookup/startup process has fixed this in testing.

The guy in Leadville had the exact same issue and also says it’s the tank. Think this might be the same for any heater, though perhaps the Truma is a bit more sensitive? Edit: should also say, once it starts getting propane initially, there’s been no drama with it coming on automatically or when I turn the thermostat from Off or the lowest setting (40º) to set the temp during the subsequent time span when I haven’t had to disconnect the tank.

 
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dstefan

Well-known member
FYI for anyone looking
 

sea_weathered

New member
That’s a bit hard to answer since I haven’t used it a whole lot. Best I can do is a guess. I’ve run this maybe 15 times since install. I think 3 of those have been overnight with the temp set at 42º on the night (eco) setting in outside temps into the mid 30s, but not terribly cold. The rest of the time has been running in the morning and evenings for periods of up to an hour on the auto setting to get to temp (set at 65º) again in temps in upper 30s to mid 40s in the mornings and 50s in the evening.

I’ve used two different tanks — one 5lb and a 10lb.
5lb: Tare weight 11 lbs. Full weight 15.4 lbs. Weight now is 14.6, so used .8 lb. This is the tank that had 2 of the overnights. I also had used this tank for very brief periods with my old catalytic heater, which was very effecient. So maybe .6lb used for the Truma, maybe less.

10lb (aluminum tank, hence the lower weight): Tare — 9.4 lbs; full weight 18.2 lbs (IIRC), current weight 17.0 lbs. This tank has had the bulk of running on high to heat up in the evenings and mornings and some test runs, also on high.

So total use has been 1.8 — 2 lbs. Truma lists the consumption ratesin grams/hr as:
Low/Night: 1300 W (100 g/h) / Mid: 2800 W (220 g/h) / High: 3700 W (290 g/h)

I’ve been PMing with another member with an AT Summit who lives in Leadville and am waiting to hear what his consumption is as he's used his a lot overnight in very cold temps (very happily). I’ll post what I learn.

Yes, so far. The only issue has been on initial start up (eg, pulled into camp, pulled out the tank and set up to the outside quick connect) the Truma has thrown a error code indicating no gas. On my older 5lb tank, this did not happen, but on my new 10lb tank it’s been consistent.

Appears to be a new style OPD valve auto shut off known issue on the tank, not the Truma. More careful attention to the hookup/startup process has fixed this in testing.

The guy in Leadville had the exact same issue and also says it’s the tank. Think this might be the same for any heater, though perhaps the Truma is pehaps a bit more sensitive? Edit: should also say, once it starts getting propane initially, there’s been no drama with it coming on automatically or when I turn the thermostat from Off or the lowest setting (40º) to set the temp during the subsequent time span when I haven’t had to disconnect the tank.

Dang man, thank you for the detailed response! That's quite a lot less fuel consumption than I'd expected. I'm caught between what heater I want to run, availability, and whether to run independent heat and separate hot water, or a combo unit like the Truma Combi.. Decisions decisions!
 

Dave in AZ

Active member
I have an HCal diesel heater I got on sale for $100 arriving soon. Camper won't be here for a few months. I read some not-so-good reviews about this heater. I won't do a ton of winter camping, just a few trips to the desert in the winter. Do you think something like a Wave 3 would be a better option for simplicity? I do like the idea of being able to run a heater while we sleep.
NO, the Wave3 would not be better. It burns combustion products INSIDE the camper, not exhaust outside like diesel, so tons of moisture inside. Like 600ml, almost a quart, from running 8 hrs, saw a calculation yesterday.

95% of all the reports of issues on diesels I see, folks have blatant and obvious install errors. Bends in exhaust, exhaust slopes up somewhere, restrictions on intake or exhause. And dont provide required voltage, 120w for startup, so 10A absolute minimum. Voltage not kept above 12.4, due to voltage drops from too long wires, too small wires, unregulated crap power station, using a cigarette lighter dc port which maxes out at 120w but has voltage drop issues, using 5521 or 5525 dc barrel ports on power stations which only supply 5A without voltage drops, using alligator clips, bad wiring connections, and on and on!
If you dont have a dc 15A to 30A specialty port on your power station, it probably will throw a voltage error. Guys with poor dc on power stations are running an ac 12v charger on them, which then supplies enough good 12.4v dc to run.
Running on low too long without a 15 min High cycle to burn soot.

Here, just watch this guys videos:
 

dirtnsmores

Member
NO, the Wave3 would not be better. It burns combustion products INSIDE the camper, not exhaust outside like diesel, so tons of moisture inside. Like 600ml, almost a quart, from running 8 hrs, saw a calculation yesterday.

95% of all the reports of issues on diesels I see, folks have blatant and obvious install errors. Bends in exhaust, exhaust slopes up somewhere, restrictions on intake or exhause. And dont provide required voltage, 120w for startup, so 10A absolute minimum. Voltage not kept above 12.4, due to voltage drops from too long wires, too small wires, unregulated crap power station, using a cigarette lighter dc port which maxes out at 120w but has voltage drop issues, using 5521 or 5525 dc barrel ports on power stations which only supply 5A without voltage drops, using alligator clips, bad wiring connections, and on and on!
If you dont have a dc 15A to 30A specialty port on your power station, it probably will throw a voltage error. Guys with poor dc on power stations are running an ac 12v charger on them, which then supplies enough good 12.4v dc to run.
Running on low too long without a 15 min High cycle to burn soot.

Here, just watch this guys videos:
thanks. looks like another rabbit hole that I don't have time to go down right now!

one other question... how many of you got the daisy chain option for the ceiling. It looks super useful, but the option is $175 :(
 

Pra4sno

Member
thanks. looks like another rabbit hole that I don't have time to go down right now!

one other question... how many of you got the daisy chain option for the ceiling. It looks super useful, but the option is $175 :(

Hammock Daisy Chain Straps - $7 and a handful of self tapping screws and you'll have close to the same thing for under $10 total.

I have on order, and am going to put in T-track in the same spot, so I can connect battery powered lighting, hooks for accessories, etc. using t-nuts and move it where needed with a quick twist and slide. Had this in a previous camper and loved it!

For heater, we use a Lavaner Alpine Pro 5kw Diesel heater and it has been flawless - at about 100 hours of runtime right now and really like it. Nothing against propane, I just like the option to fill up at the gas station and have about 24 hours of runtime on 1.3 gallons of fuel if we have it at 50% output. We like it so much I am on the wait list for the 2kw alpine version as well.
 

7000'Tundra

New member
Originally I had the diesel heater in the camper, but everything I read said maybe rethink keeping the fuel and heater in the sleeping area. It also took up floor space

So I ordered a suitcase conversion kit from a guy on Etsy (keeganbuilds) and installed a 4” boat deck plate on the side of the camper

I tried putting the heater on the ground and running the hose up, but the 6’ run of tubing lost a lot of heat

I settled on installing some 1” aluminum flat stock on the back of the heater so it hangs off the tailgate. It works much better and my wife (who is not cold tolerant) slept great when it was 20 degrees outside. No artic pack
 

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dirtnsmores

Member
Question of the day:

How many of you sleep 3+ people and have your kids or family in the OVRLND Camper?

Most of my weekend trips will just be a few of us, but some trips it will be my whole family of four. We're thinking the bunk bed cots down below might be our solution.
 

Pra4sno

Member
Question of the day:

How many of you sleep 3+ people and have your kids or family in the OVRLND Camper?

Most of my weekend trips will just be a few of us, but some trips it will be my whole family of four. We're thinking the bunk bed cots down below might be our solution.
Not really able to help on this other than to say it is 100% doable depending on the size of your truck/camper. With our bed pulled out, there is a great space below to put a bunk. We are going to be building a bench on one side, which could be combined with an L shape bunk on the cab-side that could sleep two children.

My recommendation would be to take a look at Taxa for solutions, as they have similar dimensions in their Cricket Camper as an OVRLND on a full size when popped up and some really creative solutions on their drop down bunks as well as their side sleeping bunks. No affiliation to them, but I've been in a couple of their campers and found the design for families fit a lot in to a small area. https://taxaoutdoors.com/products/cricket

SBC08735.jpg

Mantis_CouchBunk_1.jpg
 

Pra4sno

Member
Originally I had the diesel heater in the camper, but everything I read said maybe rethink keeping the fuel and heater in the sleeping area. It also took up floor space

So I ordered a suitcase conversion kit from a guy on Etsy (keeganbuilds) and installed a 4” boat deck plate on the side of the camper

I tried putting the heater on the ground and running the hose up, but the 6’ run of tubing lost a lot of heat

I settled on installing some 1” aluminum flat stock on the back of the heater so it hangs off the tailgate. It works much better and my wife (who is not cold tolerant) slept great when it was 20 degrees outside. No artic pack

Do you climb out your drivers side hatch and then remove this to get out?
 

dirtnsmores

Member
Not really able to help on this other than to say it is 100% doable depending on the size of your truck/camper. With our bed pulled out, there is a great space below to put a bunk. We are going to be building a bench on one side, which could be combined with an L shape bunk on the cab-side that could sleep two children.

My recommendation would be to take a look at Taxa for solutions, as they have similar dimensions in their Cricket Camper as an OVRLND on a full size when popped up and some really creative solutions on their drop down bunks as well as their side sleeping bunks. No affiliation to them, but I've been in a couple of their campers and found the design for families fit a lot in to a small area. https://taxaoutdoors.com/products/cricket

SBC08735.jpg

Mantis_CouchBunk_1.jpg

Thanks for the idea. Will definitely check them out. I'm looking to build a minimal L shape bench like you mentioned. My 12 yr old gets the long bench and my 7 year can fit on the cab bench, will double as seating and storage.

That's only about four trips a year where I will have all four of us. There's going to be plenty of small weekend trips with just two of us. I foresee us bringing the gazelle tent and throwing the kids and the dog in there for trips where we're going to be at the same place multiple nights. Byeeeeeeeee


Big news! The big deposit is paid, and they are starting the manufacturing of my camper this week!

Here are most of the specs:

It's going on my first gen double cab Tundra 4x4. It's a 2006 and super clean. I sold my two-wheel drive Tacoma long bed for about the same price I bought this for a few months ago. Much roomier for the family, has 4x4, and a bigger bed (63w X 76L). Win-win all around.

- 11inch cabover, black anodized

- 70/30 ratio half barn doors, extra 2" of entry height. Slider window on the larger door (centered to truck), 80/20 on the smaller door.

- drive side flip up hatch, passenger side slider window (will have a dog crated in the bed during travel)

- Cabside slider window

- deluxe maxxair fan

- keder awning tracks on both sides, mounting a Kammock Crosswing awning on the rear.

- unistrut roof rails for occasionally hauling a canoe or paddle board, traction boards.

- headliner and insulation on ceiling

- had them cut off 6" from bed slide out length. Now it'll be 74", and I'll have more standing room.

- black Friday deals they ran... Free window, brake light, and clear plastic for the tent windows.

Decided not to get the lights ($$$ and I can do myself), solar gland (I have portable panels), daisy chain $$$.

I'm so stoked! They said should be ready in late February/early March.

PXL_20231004_223820015.jpg
 
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sea_weathered

New member
Thanks for the idea. Will definitely check them out. I'm looking to build a minimal L shape bench like you mentioned. My 12 yr old gets the long bench and my 7 year can fit on the cab bench, will double as seating and storage.

That's only about four trips a year where I will have all four of us. There's going to be plenty of small weekend trips with just two of us. I foresee us bringing the gazelle tent and throwing the kids and the dog in there for trips where we're going to be at the same place multiple nights. Byeeeeeeeee


Big news! The big deposit is paid, and they are starting the manufacturing of my camper this week!

Here are most of the specs:

It's going on my first gen double cab Tundra 4x4. It's a 2006 and super clean. I sold my two-wheel drive Tacoma long bed for about the same price I bought this for a few months ago. Much roomier for the family, has 4x4, and a bigger bed (63w X 76L). Win-win all around.

- 11inch cabover, black anodized

- 70/30 ratio half barn doors, extra 2" of entry height. Slider window on the larger door (centered to truck), 80/20 on the smaller door.

- drive side flip up hatch, passenger side slider window (will have a dog crated in the bed during travel)

- Cabside slider window

- deluxe maxxair fan

- keder awning tracks on both sides, mounting a Kammock Crosswing awning on the rear.

- unistrut roof rails for occasionally hauling a canoe or paddle board, traction boards.

- headliner and insulation on ceiling

- had them cut off 6" from bed slide out length. Now it'll be 74", and I'll have more standing room.

- black Friday deals they ran... Free window, brake light, and clear plastic for the tent windows.

Decided not to get the lights ($$$ and I can do myself), solar gland (I have portable panels), daisy chain $$$.

I'm so stoked! They said should be ready in late February/early March.

View attachment 816022
Very cool!! I just finalized my build and mailed the big deposit too. We have similar builds, but you're a little ahead of me. I'm set for a May 2nd instal date
 

Pra4sno

Member
Thanks for the idea. Will definitely check them out. I'm looking to build a minimal L shape bench like you mentioned. My 12 yr old gets the long bench and my 7 year can fit on the cab bench, will double as seating and storage.

That's only about four trips a year where I will have all four of us. There's going to be plenty of small weekend trips with just two of us. I foresee us bringing the gazelle tent and throwing the kids and the dog in there for trips where we're going to be at the same place multiple nights. Byeeeeeeeee


Big news! The big deposit is paid, and they are starting the manufacturing of my camper this week!

Here are most of the specs:

It's going on my first gen double cab Tundra 4x4. It's a 2006 and super clean. I sold my two-wheel drive Tacoma long bed for about the same price I bought this for a few months ago. Much roomier for the family, has 4x4, and a bigger bed (63w X 76L). Win-win all around.

- 11inch cabover, black anodized

- 70/30 ratio half barn doors, extra 2" of entry height. Slider window on the larger door (centered to truck), 80/20 on the smaller door.

- drive side flip up hatch, passenger side slider window (will have a dog crated in the bed during travel)

- Cabside slider window

- deluxe maxxair fan

- keder awning tracks on both sides, mounting a Kammock Crosswing awning on the rear.

- unistrut roof rails for occasionally hauling a canoe or paddle board, traction boards.

- headliner and insulation on ceiling

- had them cut off 6" from bed slide out length. Now it'll be 74", and I'll have more standing room.

- black Friday deals they ran... Free window, brake light, and clear plastic for the tent windows.

Decided not to get the lights ($$$ and I can do myself), solar gland (I have portable panels), daisy chain $$$.

I'm so stoked! They said should be ready in late February/early March.

View attachment 816022
Dang! You went full send on that build!

Just finished my self installed insulation, and a headliner from the ovrlnd folks. It's awesome. You will love all of the options you went with.
 

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dirtnsmores

Member
Dang! You went full send on that build!

Just finished my self installed insulation, and a headliner from the ovrlnd folks. It's awesome. You will love all of the options you went with.

That came out really good! I bet your shoulders got a workout. Looks clean. Easy to install headliner? I may be pulling mine back to work on lights occasionally. Hoping it goes back together nicely.
 

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