Virgin steel fairlead and Amsteel Blue?

[crawler#976]

Hey all,

Vehicle: Dodge Power Wagon w/ 12K Warn.

I've purchased 90' of 7/16 Amsteel Blue from Viking Offroad to replace the 90' of 7/16" cable. Thanks for the great customer service Thór!

The cable was never used or even stretched - so the fairlead is in 100% new condition. No nicks, scratches, or dings!

So, do I need to replace the rollers w/ Delrin? If so, I'll have to machine my own since the fairlead on the Power Wagon is not stock size. No big deal, but my employee shop rate is $85.00 an hour on CNC equipment plus the cost of material. We don't have any "government" time available on the turning centers.

What say you?


Mark

 

[rambrush]

What Thor advised me is that you do not need to change rollers as long as they are in good shape.

I am curious about extreme angles and getting the cable pinched off to the side.

 

[StumpXJ]

I prefer my hawse style fairlead now with the synthetic, but I wouldnt hesitate to use a like new condition roller fairlead (steel rollers or other) on a synthetic line. As long as there is nothing to 'nick' the synthetic, it should be just fine imo.

~James

 

[I Leak Oil]

I personally prefer the hawse fairlead as well. I'm concerned about the rope being pinched between the rolls in the corners.
Regarding steel vs. delrin or other rollers, think of it this way. How much does a new rope cost if you cut it? How much will it cost you to make or buy the delrin? I'd go with the piece of mind myself.
Jason T.

 

[BIGdaddy]

go get an aluminum or delrin hawse. Your synthetic line will love you for it. It's gonna get pinched and chafed or worse, cut.

Spend $50.00 or less and ride into the sunset knowing your line is never gonna snag.

If your bumper isn't setup for hawse, make it so!!

 

[BIGdaddy]

Oh, and is Thor going to replace you line when it gets pinched in the roller fairlead?

Bet not. Not putting the man down, but hawse and synthetic have been synonymous for like 5 years.


This: http://www.spidertrax.com/products/fairleads Is an example of an excellent product, at an excellent price, from an excellent company.

Be like Mike. "Just Do It"...lol.

 

[Crikeymike]

But the design of the rollers don't really allow for the cable/rope to get pinched since they overlap in a certain way.

Stick with the new rollers. They will "roll" and not create resistance like the hawse style does.

 

[I Leak Oil]

But the design of the rollers don't really allow for the cable/rope to get pinched since they overlap in a certain way.

Stick with the new rollers. They will "roll" and not create resistance like the hawse style does.

So when I saw this happen with my own eyes I must have been seeing things? It can happen at extreme angle pulls.
Just saying....
Jason T.

 

[ntsqd]

It sounds like the PW fairlead is not a std unit, so a std hawse may not fit. I do not see a problem with using new steel rollers so long as they will always roll. Thinking on it further, the biggest enemy of the poly winch lines is heat. Sliding over a hawse is far more likely to build heat than in rolling over a roller. Wonder why hawse fairleads got to be "the answer"?

I would offer that if the angle of the pull is steep enough to offer the potential of pinching the line between the rollers that the anchor should be re-set so that this can't happen.

 

[michaelgroves]

I would offer that if the angle of the pull is steep enough to offer the potential of pinching the line between the rollers that the anchor should be re-set so that this can't happen.

I agree. Under load, the friction will wear the rope, as well as generating heat. And the rope will be under compression, which it really doesn't like!

 

[Antichrist]

I do not see a problem with using new steel rollers so long as they will always roll.

Even if they don't, the angle on a roller is usually less acute than on a hawse.

 

[JamesDowning]

What is the opinion on using the same snatch block with wire and synthetic? I assume its a similar rule... check for burrs on the pulley? If there's anything there to grab a strand of synthetic, then it's no good?

How much wear on a component would normally make it worn to a point where it would not be acceptable for synthetic? Would one winch recovery wear it enough to make it unacceptable?

I'm in the process of purchasing winch components and trying to get an understanding as to how critical it is to go with synthetic right away. To save some money right now, I'm contemplating putting the synethetic off... but if that means I have to replace parts later, I may just spend the extra now.

Thanks for the input guys!

 

[garrett]

What is the opinion on using the same snatch block with wire and synthetic? I assume its a similar rule... check for burrs on the pulley? If there's anything there to grab a strand of synthetic, then it's no good?

How much wear on a component would normally make it worn to a point where it would not be acceptable for synthetic? Would one winch recovery wear it enough to make it unacceptable?

I'm in the process of purchasing winch components and trying to get an understanding as to how critical it is to go with synthetic right away. To save some money right now, I'm contemplating putting the synethetic off... but if that means I have to replace parts later, I may just spend the extra now.

Thanks for the input guys!

The #1 reason to switch to synthetic is safety. Synthetic line does not store energy like a steel line simply because it weighs less. It is also much easier to handle (still wear gloves!). Steel kinks, bends and the line gets compromised far quicker and easier than synthetic.

A snatch block/pulley that has been used with steel cable should be fine. As you mentioned just double check that there isn't anything to cause abrasion.

For those that are worried about using a roller fairlead....don't be. Where is it that the rope has the potential of getting "pinched"? Not on any roller fairlead I've seen in the past several years. As long as the rollers are in good shape and move nicely they will offer LESS resistance than a hawse. Plain and simple. We've been using roller fairleads on all our training vehicles with synthetic rope for years. It's a non-issue.

 

[Desolation]

...the biggest enemy of the poly winch lines is heat. Sliding over a hawse is far more likely to build heat than in rolling over a roller. Wonder why hawse fairleads got to be "the answer"?

Good question/observation!
My observation when Synth ropes first showed up was they simply replaced the steel ones thus were run on Rollers that were in need of being replaced to run steel! I'll guess that is the reason...

IMO most "extreme" angle pulls are not rigged correctly. Sometimes you have to do... most times they are just lazy.

 

[Stumpalump]

I can't see friction against the hawse getting heat high enough to melt the rope. The dang thing with cut like warm butter on an ehaust pipe thou. Heat is a problem for sure but friction induced heat when using it seems like a strech. Has this ever caused a problem or is it hypothetical?

I liked the weight reduction of the aluminum hawse. All the mods add up so it's nice to actually drop a few pounds every now and then.