The Big Western Trip - September 2009

KEENO

Adventurer
Nicely done AlekG with the US National Park & Forest Service Brochures as headers for you trip report! Interesting read!

KEENO:)
 

mtsport03

Adventurer
Nice report, looking forward to seeing more. I grew up in Idaho and your pictures make me incredibly homesick. Idaho has a lot of great places that people don't know about (which I and most other Idahoans prefer to keep that way). I really like your Trailblazer, too, it's always interesting to see vehicles that most people don't use off-road set up like that. Keep it coming...
 

AlekG

Adventurer
The Big Western Trip - Days 8 & 9

Days 8 & 9 - September 11 & 12 - The Lost Days

:eek: :( Oh the shame :( :eek:

Warning, this post has no offroad value whatsoever.


LasVegasSign.jpg


So I arrived in Vegas the night of September 10th with big plans. But first I had to find an all-night car wash to get rid of all the mud and dust from the past 10 days, and to re-arrange some items in the back so that it would be easy to check into the hotel.

Then I headed up Las Vegas Blvd. (The Strip) towards my hotel. What I didn't anticipate is that there would be 2 separate areas of road construction (they obviously work during the night) which made a 10 minute drive into a 1 hour painful crawl. Well, at least I got some nice shout-outs from people admiring the Trailblazer.

Flamingo.jpg


When I finally arrived at the Flamingo, I ended up tipping the valet so that he would park the truck right in front of the entrance. Plus with the Safari rack, he said it would probably not be able to make it into the garage.
Stupid me, I ended up not getting a picture of it sitting in front of the entrance.

So what were my big plans? Well, because of past visits, and the economic downturn (Vegas needs visitors!), I was able to get 3 nights for free at the Flamingo. So I was going to use this as my base to go explore places around the area. Things on my list were Red Rock Canyon, Death Valley, and the Grand Canyon at Tuweep as a start.

I should have taken the construction as a warning as several things started to make these 2 days in Vegas the Lost Days, in terms of offroading that is. I go to check in and their room booking inventory system is down. So thats another hour and a half in line waiting to check in. So to speed things up they are scrambling and offer me a better room for the 1st night and $50 credit ... but I would have to switch rooms the next morning. I didn't want to wait anymore so I accepted.

Well now that I was here, I wasn't going to just go to sleep so I decided to walk across the street to my old stomping grounds, Caesar's Palace.

CaesarsPalacejpg.jpg


I make a bee-line over to the Seahorse Lounge where my favorite bartender is the supervisor and we catch up on old times over several Martinis. Needless to say it was a long night.

SeahorseLounge.jpg


Next morning (Day 8) I have to transfer rooms so there goes half the day. I decide to use the rest of the day to recover a bit and plan for the next day where I wanted to head out to Death Valley. At night I decided to head over the Caesar's again for a couple of drinks and bit of time at the tables.

Casino.jpg


Big mistake #1. Instead of Martinis I start up on Mojitos, my bartender makes killer ones. I then take my pre-planned gaming budget to the tables and the worst thing happens. I don't start to win right away, but I don't lose right away either. Six hours later I stumble back to the Flamingo, pretty much breaking even, but now its 5 in the morning!

I somehow wake up at a decent hour on Day 9 and scramble to get ready for Death Valley. Oh, did I mention that Vegas was experiencing an unseasonable heat wave? Temperatures were reaching 105 for the past week and there was no let up in sight. They should have been in the high 80s this time of year.

So it dawns on me that I should at least check the temps in Death Valley. I go online and the forecast was for 140! At this time what is left of my better judgement kicks in and I decide to not take a chance with a solo trip to Death Valley in 140 degree weather. I think a bit about heading over to Tuweep and the Grand Canyon, but looking at the maps I see that there are over 150 miles offroad through varying levels of graded gravel and dirt road. I decide that it is too late in the day for that and that a trip out to the nearby Red Rock Canyon would be a better choice. OK, let me go grab lunch first.

Margaritaville.jpg


Big mistake #2. I head down to Jimmy Buffett's Margaritaville right in the Flamingo. The food was great, but the Margarita's were outstanding! All six of them. Well, there goes my afternoon trip out to Red Rock Canyon. I wake up later that evening and head over to Caesar's again for a small dinner. The rest as they say "will stay in Vegas".

So that is how I ended up with 2 days of my Big Western Trip with absolutely no offroading whatsoever. Oh, and I didn't end up even taking any pictures.

OK everybody, feel free to let me have it.
 

AlekG

Adventurer
The Big Western Trip - Day 10

Day 10 - September 13

OK, so I blew it in regards to offroad adventure around Vegas. I would have really liked to have gone to Death Valley and seen The Racetrack with the moving rocks, or the Valley of Fire, or Mount Charleston.

So this day I decided to at least go visit Red Rock Canyon which is just outside of Las Vegas.


NCA-RedRockCanyon.jpg


The temperatures were still into the 100s so even though Red Rock Canyon is very close to the city and there is usually quite a few tourists there, I made sure I had plenty of liquids with me and lots of sun protection.

With clear skies above, the colors in the canyon were incredible. Reds, oranges, yellows, greens, browns ...

Red Rock Canyon seems to have something for everyone, even offroaders although ATVs are not allowed (along with driving off marked roads). The Scenic Drive loop road is paved but very nice as it takes you up close to the rocks, then higher in elevation to overlook the entire area, then back down into the flat parts. There are many parking areas that allow for great pictures as well as hiking into the rocks. The trails have varying levels of difficulty and length, plus there is rock climbing allowed in certain areas for those so inclined.

About half way through is a turn off to Rocky Gap Road. It starts as a graded gravel road that leads to some nice shady picnic areas. Past that it is marked as a high clearance 4x4 road. I followed a Pink Jeep Tours vehicle up into the mountains and at a turn, he let me pass as they were going slowly to allow for pictures I guess. I asked the driver/tour guide wether the trail was a dead end. He indicated that their tour turns around soon but that the trail itself continues on, but deteriorates. He also said that if I used my GPS I could probably follow it all the way to Pahrump on the California border.

Later that evening I took a look at Google and my GPS Topo maps. Even though the trail is not marked on Google, using the satellite images you can see that it does make its way to Lovell Canyon Road, which leads to Lovell Summit road, which ends up in Pahrump. That would have been an interesting drive through Toiyabe National Forest but unfortunately, not on this trip.

After reaching where the trail becomes quite rocky, I decided to turn around and take some pictures at what looked like a nice back country camping area.

As I drove along the back half of the Scenic Road, I tried to get some pictures of the western mountains (Bridge Mt, Mt. Wilson) as the sun was starting to set behind them. And finally at the exit to Red Rock Canyon, there is another great overlook.



I then headed back into Vegas, north-east through Arizona, and into southern Utah, all the while hoping that the weather would hold up as the next day was going to be a big one, something that I had been looking forward to for many years. :woot: :woohoo: :woot:


Garmin GPS Track (large file)
Garmin GPS Track - Red Rock Canyon NCA (large file)

September 13 Google Map
 

AlekG

Adventurer
The Big Western Trip - Day 11

Day 11 - September 14 - Part 1

This is the day I have been waiting/planning for, but first a little background. When I was a teenager, I was lucky enough to have a cool Dad that would occasionally take me on business trips (conventions, seminars, etc.) with him to all parts of the U.S.A and Canada.

One of those early trips was to a convention in Phoenix. This was our first time out west so we combined a drive to Las Vegas with a stop at the Grand Canyon South Rim. For those of you who have been there you know that it is basically impossible to put into words.

Many years later, when I had my own business and I was headed out to Las Vegas for the CES (Consumer Electronics Show), I invited my Dad along to retrace our earlier route. However, this time I decided to check out the more remote North Rim of the Grand Canyon. At the time, I thought it was "way cool" because it was not as "touristy" as the South Rim, and you were able to walk out to areas that were much closer to the canyon walls.

Little did I know at the time that there was another access point to the Canyon, one that only offroaders or expeditionists would be interested in due to its remoteness and vehicle requirements.

NP-GrandCanyon.jpg


So on this day I set out to that challenging area of Grand Canyon National Park called Tuweep and the Toroweap Overlook. Here is some advice from their website:
No one should attempt the trip without ample preparation and knowledge of the hazards associated with remote desert travel. Travelers should carry extra WATER, FOOD, and GASOLINE; GOOD TIRES including at least one USABLE SPARE; and PARTS and TOOLS to handle vehicle and tire repairs.

And just to underscore this warning, I found this press release on the National Parks Services site. It seems that just a week after I was at Tuweep, a hiker had an accident on the treacherous and dangerous Lava Falls Hiking route which descends 2500 feet from rim to river in a distance of just under 2 miles.

That morning I headed out to the BLM office in St. George to pick up a detailed map of this area of Arizona. I also filled my 2 Scepter gas cans, and checked the tires. My plan was to use the 90 mile Main Street Route for the trip there, and the shorter 60 mile Clayhole Route for the trip back to pavement.

Initially the driving was slower than I liked it as the graded gravel road was terribly washboarded. I ended up trying to drive on the softer parts of the road which was usually down the middle. At one point it looked like rain was coming in from the North which worried me a bit, many areas on this route become impassible with wet weather. Luckily, it stayed away. After a while the road got softer and clay based and I passed some abandoned homesteads.

The next stop was the Mt. Trumbull Schoolhouse. It has been beautifully renovated after some vandals almost burned it to the ground some years back. There was a lot of interesting information inside.



Continued ...
 

AlekG

Adventurer
The Big Western Trip - Day 11

Day 11 - September 14 - Part 2

The road then took me up and around Mt. Trumbull. A really nice drive with some great overlooks. I ran into a Forestry Dept. controlled burn on the slopes which was interesting.

There was plenty of the tall plant growing after the fire. I remember seeing a picture and write up of this plant somewhere but I cannot find it now. If anyone knows, please chime in. On the slope down there was plenty of Prickly Pear Cactus. I read that the fruit on that cactus is edible, but I'm no Survivorman so I left it alone.

After more driving you enter Grand Canyon NP with its ranger station right next to the road. There is a pit toilet and some information to read. One prominent sight warns of Sand Bogs along the road to the rim.



These are areas of very soft and deep sand. The notice asks drivers to NOT circumvent them by going off the track, but to slowly and carefully plow through them, preferably in low gear. I thought about airing down but didn't. A couple did feel quite deep but as long as I kept moving, there was no problem.

Shortly after the picture above, the terrain changes to barren rock with a few tricky climbs but nothing too radical. The exposed rock continues all the way to the Tuweep overlook parking area.



As I arrived, another vehicle was leaving so I got the place all to myself. It was windy but also eerily quiet. Once you shut the engine off you get the sense that there is no human around for thousands of miles, even though you will see that it is not the case.

Continued ...
 

AlekG

Adventurer
The Big Western Trip - Day 11

Day 11 - September 14 - Part 3

Now, I am not particularly afraid of heights, but a sheer 3000 foot drop I do respect! So here are some pictures from as close as I dared to venture to the rim. To get a picture of me with an interesting background, I wedged myself between some rocks that were pretty close to the edge.

I then got out my 500mm lens and tried to see if I could capture any wildlife. No luck there but I did get a couple of shots of a rafting trip down on the Colorado River.

I then headed back north to get to pavement, the Arizona-Utah border, and ultimately to Cedar City Utah. Was it as awesome as I dreamed it would be?



Absolutely! And more! The pictures only give one sense of this narrow area of the Grand Canyon. The sounds (and quiet), the smells, driving 150 miles away from civilization, it all ads up to an unforgettable experience.


Garmin GPS Track (large file)
Garmin GPS Track - Grand Canyon NP - Tuweep Overlook (large file)

September 14 Google Map
 

AlekG

Adventurer
The Big Western Trip - Day 12

Day 12 - September 15

After my outstanding day at the Grand Canyon and Tuweep Overlook, this day was about getting closer to Utah's canyons.

The plan was to head north to Salina which would be my starting point for the next day's foray towards the San Rafael Swell. I chose Salina because the next town west of it is Green River, 100 miles away and too far past the starting point of the trails I chose.

I did have time to incorporate an offroad trail today on the way north so I read through my Peter Massey Utah Backcountry Adventures book and chose the Richfield Pioneer Road on page 509. It is rated at an easy 2 (on a scale of 10) with a scenic rating of 9 and a driving time of 3.5 hours.

The weather this day started out great but unfortunately grew worse as I travelled north along the eastern edge of The Great Basin to the point where I hit some pretty heavy showers going over the mountains and Fishlake National Forest.

It seemed to be looking up by the time I got to Richmond which is the starting point of the trail so I headed up into the red hills hoping that the weather would hold up. Unfortunately as I got to the top of the first crest I could see heavy rains straight ahead. I stopped to consider this for a bit as the trail is that typical Utah red clay dirt, which turns into heavy, gooey, slippery mud when wet. What finally convinced me was a column of about 10 ATVs heading down back into Richmond (where I came from) completely plastered with red mud, head to toe. So I decided to play it safe and turned around.



As I was heading back down even more ATVs passed me. What was the deal :confused: ? Well, it seems that Richmond is ATV central in Utah that time of year as the 275-mile-long Paiute ATV Trail (PATVT) passes through it ... AND ... the Rocky Mountain ATV Jamboree was in full session!

Well, I gassed up and continued north to Salida. That evening I had a really good Mexican dinner in the restaurant right across from the Super-8 where I was staying. This is also where I spotted the blue Ascender - see picture way back on Day 1.


Garmin GPS Track (large file)

September 15 Google Map
 

bigfoot

New member
Wow, wow, wow. That looks like it was an awesome trip! (You sure crammed in a lot of scenery.) Thanks for posting all the photos and maps, too! Those pictures of Devils Tower with the fog are just too cool. :)
 

AlekG

Adventurer
Wow, wow, wow. That looks like it was an awesome trip! (You sure crammed in a lot of scenery.) Thanks for posting all the photos and maps, too! Those pictures of Devils Tower with the fog are just too cool. :)

Thanks! Much more to come as the San Rafael Swell and Canyonlands is up next!

AG
 

AlekG

Adventurer
The Big Western Trip - Day 13

Day 13 - September 16 - Part 1

I planned this day to head into the San Rafael Swell area of Utah. This area is covered in the Trails of the Central Region part of the Massey/Wilson book. I decided to explore the area south of I70 because I liked how I could tackle 4 or 5 trails with one trip. As usual, this area of Utah has an abundance of interesting areas to explore and trails to conquer. Some of the places I really would like to see but had to miss on this trip were:
  1. The 7 hour Cathedral Valley Trail
  2. Three Fingers Petroglyphs
  3. Black Dragon Pictographs
  4. Robbers Roost
  5. The Black Box of the San Rafael River



The day started off with perfect weather as I headed east on I70 through Fishlake and Manti la Sal National Forests and onto the swell. My starting point was the northern terminus of the Temple Mountain Trail (Central #12, page 466 of the book). This trail is rated a difficulty 2 with a scenic of 7, so I was really using it to get to more interesting areas.

Five miles in is the turn off for Swasey's Cabin Trail (Central #13, page 468) which is a short track to what the book calls one of the oldest remaining structures in the desert as it dates back to the 1920s. It stands in front of a unique and striking rock formation. The Swasey's used a cool cave in that formation as a year-round meat locker.



I then backtracked 1 mile to the fork where Rods Valley Trail (Central #14, page 470) heads south . This trail is rated a 3 because it crosses through the wash in Rods Valley several times as well as some rough rocky sections. Its a good shortcut down to the trail where I would spend most of my time this day - Reds Canyon Trail (Central #15, page 472).

Reds Canyon is a 2.5 hour loop trail that starts up on the plateau as a graded dirt road and then drops into the canyon where it follows the wash for about 75% of the northern part of the loop. Its difficulty is rated a 3 and scenic a 10. Here is how the book describes it:
The road's rating of 3 is contingent upon the amount of erosion from recent rain and/or how long it has been since the road was last graded. If graded and dry, the road would rate a 2. However, if there have been recent washouts, the trail could be considerably more difficult, perhaps even impassable without some road repairs.
As I was there in the tail end of Utah's monsoon season, the road was about 50% washed out from a recent heavy thunderstorm. By this I mean that half the time I could tell where the road was but the other half I had no clue. Except for 1 set of tracks that I was lucky enough to be able to follow for the most part (see the third picture). Using the tracks and the road as it was displayed on my GPS, I was able to not drive astray the entire length except for 1 place, where both the person there before me (the tracks) and I ended up missing a turn-off and driving down the wash too far. I reversed in a three point turn when I noticed the tracks I was following did the same.

As for the trail, I would rate it a 5 or 6 when I was there. The recent water created several high and soft dirt mounds to get over. I think a non-lifted vehicle would have had problems on some of those. I didn't have to use my shovel anywhere but I did need to stack rocks in 2 places where the drop and climb were significant.

Continued ...
 

AlekG

Adventurer
The Big Wester Trip - Day 13

Day 13 - September 16 - Part 2

Once the trail leaves the wash for good, it heads towards Tomsich Butte which looks monolithic from a distance. Its the one in the background in the picture with the abandoned pickup cab and engine block. At the very far end of the loop, the road drops down to Muddy Creek where there is a great viewpoint for Hondoo Arch. I parked the Trailblazer here in the shade under a big Cottonwood tree and had some lunch.



On the way back to the southern part of the loop, I took some photos of the abandoned uranium mine at the foot of Tomsich Butte. The trail then climbs up to McKay Flat and becomes a 1-rated road that takes you through rolling grassland and sagebrush back to the Temple Mountain Trail.



Reds Canyon Trail ends back at Temple Mountain Trail, which then continues east back to pavement. Along the way it navigates around Temple Mountain, into a canyon, and finally ends back on the flat.



Continued ...
 

AlekG

Adventurer
The Big Western Trip - Day 13

Day 13 - September 16 - Part 3

My last stop for the day was Goblin Valley State Park and the very interesting Valley of the Goblins.

SP-GoblinValley.jpg


Here's how the book describes the natural formations:
These unique rock formations have been carved out over millions of years by wind and rain and are thought by many to resemble little goblin-like creatures.

I arrived there just before the sun started to go down so I stayed a while waiting for the sunset to really light up the valley. Here's a series of photos showing the wide view and some close ups.

I snapped a picture of myself next to a goblin and on the way out of the park I saw the "Three Sisters" formation.



Continued ...
 

AlekG

Adventurer
The Big Western Trip - Day 13

Day 13 - September 16 - Part 4

As I was leaving a great sunset was shaping up with the Henry Mountains in the distance. This remote range were the last mountains to be mapped in the lower 48 states (in 1872). In between me and the mountains were some great rock outcroppings that just lit up in the setting sun.

I then headed north to Green River for the night. I could see heavy thunderstorms shaping up in the distance, and when I was driving into Green River the skies looked ominous in the dark, but the rain stayed away all night. Good news because the next day was going to be a big one.




Garmin GPS Track (large file)
Garmin GPS Track - Reds Canyon (large file)

September 16 Google Map
 

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