Texas TJ's 99 D1 Project

TexasTJ

Climbing Nerd
Its not that i don't want to lift it. I just want to do other stuff first. I also have new rover shocks in front and Bilstein 5150's in the rear. The Lift will come closer to a time that I can Re-gear. Right now its Bumpers, Sliders, and cargo gear.
 

jham

Adventurer
Its not that i don't want to lift it. I just want to do other stuff first. I also have new rover shocks in front and Bilstein 5150's in the rear. The Lift will come closer to a time that I can Re-gear. Right now its Bumpers, Sliders, and cargo gear.

fair enough, sounds like you're going with protection. I hope you're not throwing all that weight on there for looks.

If you are putting these things on for protection, you're going to want to protect the weak diffs. Look into getting diff covers on there as well. I would also suggest doing the cut michael talked about if you're going with new tires. All that weight is going to sag the vehicle and you're going to lose travel space for the tires.
 

TexasTJ

Climbing Nerd
So the shock I got are long and That Has made me think about lifting. Can I get any real world advice about power loss on 245s.
 

TexasTJ

Climbing Nerd
what hight lift would I need to go along with the 235's. I'm look at OME coils and have bilstein 5150 for the rear right now.
 

SeaRubi

Explorer
what hight lift would I need to go along with the 235's. I'm look at OME coils and have bilstein 5150 for the rear right now.

You are on your way to having some kind of mongroid suspension that works poorly in all conditions. My advice to you: sell those blingsteins. find a nice set of 235/70-R16 all terrains and leave it alone. Make sure it's reliable, go through the known problem areas of the truck and leave the suspension alone. How are the tie-rods? what are the radius arm bushings like? how about the bushings for the rear suspension links? when was the last time the driveshafts were serviced? Is the steering box leaking? Fix the sunroof. A nice disco like that doesn't deserve to be ghetto. If you want to travel - then go find the stuff you need to do that well.

There are plenty of people that get their hands on these trucks for cheap and start throwing money at parts they don't need, then run out of money and start cheap-bastard'ing their way into finishing projects and end up with an unreliable rig that looks the part but isn't. Don't be another one! Those '99 model year D1's deserve to be loved and well cared for.

cheers,
-ike
 
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TexasTJ

Climbing Nerd
Im addressing the bushings this spring with a firm bushing kit form Atlantic British. and the Leaking steering box is on the list but not a high priority right now. I just keep it toped off. The Driver shafts are Next on the list. I going to try to do them with the bushings. I didn't this putting some of the best shock on the market in the rear would be ghetto but i can see where your coming from. My original plan as to live it stock I just thought about lifting after dropping 270 on a set of shock. This is definitely for travel and light backcountry driver. I've built a couple of jeeps to do the hardcore stuff and now have that out of my system. In the end I would like to end up with something like the Overland Journal Disco. I took five years to get my last Jeep done so i have no problem taking my time. I do need to replace the rear shock on this truck as I think the ones on it are the originals. Anyone have a good stock alternative to the 5150's? Also a good way to keep a loaded rear end form sagging to much full of climbing and camping gear? Also to the dam sunroofs. The rear is leaking. should I seal it or fix it.?? I really don't care to open it I just like the light.

thanks for the grounding searubi :D

Nate
 

timmy!!!!!!!

Explorer
Get the new OME nitrosport shocks. Those are valved correctly for your truck and should be the correct length. If you want to replace the springs you can with OME or RTE springs. Oh and you can run 235/85s with that suspension set up. Don't get the bushing kit from AB. Use the genuine ones as I have heard that the aftermarket bushings to not work well long term like the LR rubber bushings.
 

SeaRubi

Explorer
+1 for genuine bushings. Those poly bushing kits are for the birds. The first thing that sucks is that they limit suspension flex. The second thing that sucks is that they'll delaminate real quick if sand or a small rock gets wedged into them and split right in two!

The Bilsteins are great shocks - I just don't think the 5150's are worth the hassle of converting the mount style, nor does the valving ever seem to work out as well as OME. Likely the ones you have are valved very stiff, and you're about to couple them with a soft spring. It ain't going to ride as nice as it could. I ran 7100's in my RRC and they worked well off-road, but they sucked on the highway. My buddies with OME kits seemed to have the best of both worlds and spent a lot less money that I did.

OME is a great choice, but if you put on those 2" lift springs you're going to also want bigger tires. After having 2 jeeps, the rover's 3.54 gearing on 32" tall tires really bugs me. Most people just live with it.

Given your intended use for the truck, Bilstein does also make a great set of replacement shocks that are 100% bolt-in:

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9279D.cfm

There's also a matching steering dampener from AB. These are firmer than stock but aren't harsh. Handling is much improved over the woodheads. I've been in an LWB rangie and a D1 that's run these and both were great riding trucks. They're just not very popular because, essentially, it's still stock.

If you're worried about load, you can get a pair of slightly stiffer factory springs for not much money. Nobody ever does this really because the OME kits work so well, are cost effective, and a bolt-on medium duty kit will clear your choice of tire under 33". If you do want to investigate getting replacement springs with 0~1" lift, check out the P/N's here:

http://www.members.shaw.ca/jbarge/springinfo.html

In my opinion, for an adventure type truck like you're talking about that's going to see plenty of highway - a fresh pair of genuine springs for the rear and a set of these "baby" Bilsteins would work great and won't encourage you to put on bigger tires, keeping the fuel mileage close to stock. Plenty of people will disagree with me ... edit: but they probably don't have a built jeep keeping their rover company in the driveway :D

cheers
-ike
 
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TexasTJ

Climbing Nerd
Well I just ordered a rubber bushing kit and some rear "baby" Bilsteins. That with some BFG at in the 235/70 should hold me for a while. I'm also going to sell the 255's the PO put on it to my brother-in-law for his DII. While I have the truck on the lift for the bushings i'm going to go a head and drain the tranny and put in a new filter and seals. It’s not leaking and the fluid doesn’t stick like eggs, but it’s not the normal red anymore and God only knows when it’s been changed.
 

SeaRubi

Explorer
Well I just ordered a rubber bushing kit and some rear "baby" Bilsteins. That with some BFG at in the 235/70 should hold me for a while. I'm also going to sell the 255's the PO put on it to my brother-in-law for his DII. While I have the truck on the lift for the bushings i'm going to go a head and drain the tranny and put in a new filter and seals. It’s not leaking and the fluid doesn’t stick like eggs, but it’s not the normal red anymore and God only knows when it’s been changed.

Nice work :sombrero: Have you checked the swivel ball housings to make sure they're greased up? A lot of people ignore them and assume if it's not making noise that they're ok. If they look a little dry, order some of the "one-shot" grease packs. They just squirt down into the swivel housing. better safe than sorry. Wheel bearings rarely give anybody trouble unless the rig sees a lot of water. I'd probably drain the diffs and refill.

Also, if the transmission fluid looks old, it's probably worth having the radiator flushed and dropping in a new thermostat before your trip. just thinking through the small stuff.

cheers
-ike
 

Funrover

Expedition Leader
So as far as sliders go. Do you have a welder or know someone who welds? For the DI Rovers they are a pretty easy set up for a frame mount (IMO) A nice set of sliders would be nice, stock or lifted, also if you add a little extra step/rail to them they provide a great step for that roof rack you plan on. I realize this was the original question and not current conversation but hope it helped
 

TexasTJ

Climbing Nerd
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24440690@N08/4965691308/
4965691308


Well Im long over due for and update. Going in to the summer I was going to take a big climbing trip in the Rover so gearing up for that I did some maintenance stuff. I also Ordered a Rover Rack XD style Voyager rack. Im really happy with the Rack. However I had the water pump go out 2 day before I was going to leave and didn't have time to fix it so we to the trip in the jeep. Once home I Fixed that and built a deck for the rack. I also added an aux water temp gauge for just in case. Next week I'm going to pull the Radiator and have it Boiled out and while Im there I'm going to swap in a GM fan clutch. well that where it sits right now this fall I will look into the new tires and some stiffer coils.

Nate :smiley_drive:
 

David Harris

Expedition Leader
OME is a great choice, but if you put on those 2" lift springs you're going to also want bigger tires. After having 2 jeeps, the rover's 3.54 gearing on 32" tall tires really bugs me. Most people just live with it.

A good compromise size to look at is 245/75R16. They are about 31" tires that do fine in just about any off-road conditions, yet don't kill your stock gearing as much as the 32's. They fit fine without a lift too. I have the stock, flexy springs on mine with two LR spring isolators installed front and rear. I also camel-cut the rear and removed the spoiler in front. Flexes fully with sway bars disconnected and no rubbing. Keeps the center of gravity low. Just something to think about for a true dual purpose rig.
 

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