I put a hydro-boost system in with a GM master cylinder, i ditched the LR abs system completely. I'm also running a full hydro steering system...
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- Thread starter mongosd2
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I put a hydro-boost system in with a GM master cylinder, i ditched the LR abs system completely. I'm also running a full hydro steering system...
I'll post some pic later this am..
Ill be doing a complete refresh of my rear axle in the next week or so. New pads, rotors, bearings, seals, Ashcroft HD axles and drive flanges. Im going to see if I can keep the camera handy and document it.
Then, the real fun starts when I go ahead and rewire the accessories on the truck. Drew up the diagram a couple of days ago. To be safe, Ill be taking a 3 day weekend to get this one done:
Maybe there should be a no BS zone DIY thread. No comments, just tech.
Easy task, just a little time consuming...be wary of rust, pb blaster and a BFH will be your friend
Toy-Roverlander
Adventurer
Nice! Can I ask which GM master you used? Did it improve brake performance in a big way? Do you use a brake balancer of some sort?
Hope you don't mind the questions, I'm just interested as I like having good brakes. I've got the same axles on my 109 using a RRC mastercylinder and booster and it's working really well. But if I'm going to bigger rubber I might feel the need for something extra.
I got the hydroboost from a fritolay delivery truck. I got a reconditioned MC for 35 bucks from Autozone, don't have the part number on this computer. No brake balancer needed, but I ran new brake lines...
I can lock up my 37's with no problem...
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Toy-Roverlander
Adventurer
Oh yeah. I forgot the hydroboost bit is seperate from the m/c..... I'll have to look into all that, and how to hook it all up when the need arises.
Thanks for the info!
Edit: Can't remember ever having seen a recent pic of your D2, only ones from before the axle swap. Have you got some? I'd love to see what it looks like with the 37s..
Thanks for the info!
Edit: Can't remember ever having seen a recent pic of your D2, only ones from before the axle swap. Have you got some? I'd love to see what it looks like with the 37s..
ipgregory
Adventurer
Well a little knowledge of LR model history and configurations as well as ROW vs. NAS set ups might have helped you here Rob because this is a totaly different animal to what you did with your modern D2. Remember this is a non NAS 1983 110 getting a NAS 1995 Disco set up. If we had access to a NAS 1993 110 Harness then it would have been much easier but they are NLA so we had to start with a new 1983 110 harness and go from there. The mechanical side is partially easy as has been mentioned with the removal of the clutch mechanism and pedal. After that the fun begins.
1st problem is the NAS part. NAS trucks have shift lockout solenoids fitted to the Trans and T-Case that ROW trucks do not. Then there is the starter lockout circuitry. Trans and T-Case Temperature sensors and indicator lamp that where not present on a 1983. Etc., etc. The 1983 harness is very simple and has none of the curcuitry to support a NAS Autobox (even a non electrical one). All that has to be added, spliced in or modified.
From a mechanical standpoint the major problem is the shifter set up. NAS shifter and console set ups are NLA. So the Ashcroft version is the only one available 'off the shelf' as you put it. But its wasn't designed for a NAS so it has to be modified. T-Case linkages are different and have to be switched around. Trans Tunnel was designed for an LT95 so has to be modified, modifying the trans cooler lines and mounting a trans cooler, and so on.
So no, not an off the shelf undertaking. Not overly complicated but certainly not 'drop in' by any means.
Remember that there are manual trans D2s out there and you where able to source the parts you needed off the shelf and simply diasable the electrical circuits you didn't need. Your biggest issue was probably programming. There never was a factory NAS ZF Auto 1983 110 so its a little more difficult.
Thats just the Trans. Now throw in in the 3.9L EFi Engine part, the installation of the TD5 Dash and instruments and so forth and you start to see that this is more of a total rewire and rebuild of the basic systems.
Combining parts from 2 or 3 trucks built for different markets 12+ years apart is 'off the shelf'? No, not so much.
1st problem is the NAS part. NAS trucks have shift lockout solenoids fitted to the Trans and T-Case that ROW trucks do not. Then there is the starter lockout circuitry. Trans and T-Case Temperature sensors and indicator lamp that where not present on a 1983. Etc., etc. The 1983 harness is very simple and has none of the curcuitry to support a NAS Autobox (even a non electrical one). All that has to be added, spliced in or modified.
From a mechanical standpoint the major problem is the shifter set up. NAS shifter and console set ups are NLA. So the Ashcroft version is the only one available 'off the shelf' as you put it. But its wasn't designed for a NAS so it has to be modified. T-Case linkages are different and have to be switched around. Trans Tunnel was designed for an LT95 so has to be modified, modifying the trans cooler lines and mounting a trans cooler, and so on.
So no, not an off the shelf undertaking. Not overly complicated but certainly not 'drop in' by any means.
Remember that there are manual trans D2s out there and you where able to source the parts you needed off the shelf and simply diasable the electrical circuits you didn't need. Your biggest issue was probably programming. There never was a factory NAS ZF Auto 1983 110 so its a little more difficult.
Thats just the Trans. Now throw in in the 3.9L EFi Engine part, the installation of the TD5 Dash and instruments and so forth and you start to see that this is more of a total rewire and rebuild of the basic systems.
Combining parts from 2 or 3 trucks built for different markets 12+ years apart is 'off the shelf'? No, not so much.
Here ya go...
Attachments
Toy-Roverlander
Adventurer
Thanks for the pics, looks cool! Are those Iroks 14" wide? Over here they only seem to sell the 14" wide ones for a 16" rim for the 37" size. They don't look that wide on your truck though..
One other question, how does it drive at speed on the road with the hydro steering? I thought it would wander all over the place and you'd have to keep steering left and right to compensate..
One other question, how does it drive at speed on the road with the hydro steering? I thought it would wander all over the place and you'd have to keep steering left and right to compensate..
Irok's are 37x12.5x16...
As for the steering, I changed out the stock PS pump to a Trail Gear pump with a custom mount. Now it travels straight with very little wander...
ipgregory
Adventurer
That really depends on the particular Defender you're starting with. Putting a ZF model 22 into a 94/95 NAS D90 or 93 NAS 110 isn't overly complicated as much of the stuff is there. Also really depends on the availability of parts. If you can get the right shifter bits off a NAS 97 D90 and you have the auto box harness and plugs then its pretty much a straight forward swap with just a few wiring changes to plumb in the lock outs and senders.
If you're working with an early ROW truck like we are then its a bit more hassle but by no means impossible. Again it really depends on what parts you have and what the base truck is. Early Ninety and One Ten models have very simple wiring and you're really just adding stuff. Starter Lock out is really the only thing you're changing rather than adding. Ashcroft's console is pretty good but it doesn't fit a NAS Shifter without some modification. The Solenoid on the side of the NAS shifter means you have to drill big holes in it and the plastic top for the shifter display doesn't fit the holes so they have to be modified. Would be much more of a PITA in a Truck cab or a ROW Ninety because of the bulkhead for the tub getting in the way of the Console. On a One Ten you just have to fab a bracket to mount the back of the console in the rear footwell. Early trucks will require the tunnel to be modded or swapped for a later R380 tunnel as well.
In a nutshell its no big deal if you can get the right parts and you start with the right truck. Problem is that most of the parts are NLA or are very expensive. So its not a drop in.
If you're working with an early ROW truck like we are then its a bit more hassle but by no means impossible. Again it really depends on what parts you have and what the base truck is. Early Ninety and One Ten models have very simple wiring and you're really just adding stuff. Starter Lock out is really the only thing you're changing rather than adding. Ashcroft's console is pretty good but it doesn't fit a NAS Shifter without some modification. The Solenoid on the side of the NAS shifter means you have to drill big holes in it and the plastic top for the shifter display doesn't fit the holes so they have to be modified. Would be much more of a PITA in a Truck cab or a ROW Ninety because of the bulkhead for the tub getting in the way of the Console. On a One Ten you just have to fab a bracket to mount the back of the console in the rear footwell. Early trucks will require the tunnel to be modded or swapped for a later R380 tunnel as well.
In a nutshell its no big deal if you can get the right parts and you start with the right truck. Problem is that most of the parts are NLA or are very expensive. So its not a drop in.
David Harris
Expedition Leader
So is this hydro setup an assist to the normal steering system, or does it completely replace it? I made my own hydro assist for my CJ5 in conjunction with the stock system with hi-steer and it actually made it track straighter due to the stabilizer effect of the ram.
David Harris
Expedition Leader
That's a bad-*** Disco by the way. I've been thinking of taking one of mine and doing a rock-crawling set-up on it like that. How much lift are you running?
When I swapped the axles I built a custom suspension that has gone thru way too many revision to count...Basically it sit's the same height as D2 with a 3" lift...
I limited up travel to 6" and down travel is the full length of the coilover, which is gives it about 22" inches of wheel travel...
I limited up travel to 6" and down travel is the full length of the coilover, which is gives it about 22" inches of wheel travel...