The pic below is from the 2002-2004 shop guide, and if I'm reading it right, the interval between flashes is different for the tens column (1.2 seconds) vs. the units (0.4 seconds). Given your description of your flashes, it sounds like your error code could actually be a 22. Unfortunately, the...
I wrapped up my front wheel bearing replacement this weekend, and found that all four of the old bearings were Koyo brand. I'm assuming this means they were not the original bearings, or is it possible that that's what Mitsubishi used for the OEM bearings?
I've been wanting to tackle this job for a while (front and rear bearing re-pack). My truck (2004 FG649) has around 125k miles on it, and I suspect it still has the original bearings, so I'm planning to replace them while I'm at it. I saw the Timken inner and outer part numbers mentioned above...
Wow, it's been 5 years already? Alas, September of 2019...when we were still all so young and innocent, but I digress. To folllow-up: Skaug Truck Body Works in San Fernando was able to build a subframe with four spring mounts on each side. It took several months for them to fit me in, as it's an...
Interesting. The info from Counteract (a mfr. of beads) reccomends 12 oz. for 37" mud terrains. I was still getting a shimmy though, so I added 3 oz. to each, which seemed to help. Still not great though. I wonder if having too much could be the problem, or maybe I just need to give up on beads...
There should be a date on the side of the tube. With the wrong gun though, yes, it can be impossible to get out. You don't have to spend a ton though -- I've found that upgrading from the $5 gun to the $15 gun at Home Depot made all the difference.
Slightly outside the OP's parameters, but I've had great results with a cheap 110 volt residential 5000 BTU window unit mounted on my back wall. It draws around 400 watts when the compressor is on, and offers plenty of cooling for such a tiny space. I've heard some say that these units won't...
Success. Getting the old lug nut off turned out to be a piece of cake with the cutting wheel, and SkiFreak's idea of taping pieces of sacrificial sheet metal to the wheel definitely saved me from doing some inadvertent damage. Good stuff. I was able to whip up my own locknut removal tool as...
The shop guide isn't all that clear (to me at least) on how much actually needs to be removed if one just wants to remove the hub/brake drum assembly for the purposes of replacing a lug stud. I've removed what the shop guide calls the "housing assembly," which is the thing that houses the dial...
Thanks for the additional thoughts. I managed to get my hands on new studs and nuts today -- locally. Always a good day when you can say that about Fuso parts. Hell, it's a good enough day when you can find them on the same continent. At any rate, Dan is correct -- there's a nut on the back side...
Thanks for the suggestion. Here's a shot of what I'm dealing with. Plenty of access to get at it with an angle grinder/cutting wheel. I'd have to stop about 1/16" or so shy of the wheel to avoid damaging it, but hopefully that's good enough to bend each section back and forth to break it away.
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