Recent content by SunTzuNephew

And the former Walker AFB, near Roswell...aside from the Roswell silliness, Walker was the largest SAC base when it was open, with Atlas ICBM's and their silos around. The Atlas missile was so underpowered that they were typically based at a few thousand feet of elevation....they needed that...

Not enough density. The bullet needs to have enough density to deliver energy at attainable velocities, and enough 'toughness' to stay intact when it hits. Bismuth can be used as a replacement for lead (in fact, it is in lead-free shot). It's more expensive, and ~20% less dense.

Ceramic would be too low density, and not conform to the rifling. Solid copper works, and has been used as 'big game' bullets for elephants, cape buffalo, and other types where you are counting on the bullets penetration and not expansion.

If you don't know these guys: http://inmed.us/index.asp

I used to have a 55 gallon drum for waste oil. When it got full, I had a problem :) Now I use a 5-gallon can that used to have kero in it. I dump the oil drainer into it via a funnel. Then I pour it into the 5 and 1 qt bottles the oil comes in, and save it for disposal at the parts store.

FWIW, rescue lifeline or climbing ropes are normally made of nylon, and as long as the core is intact are GTG. As long as they aren't exposed to acids (especially) or petrochemicals. If the jacket is worn through to the core, or there are any soft spots you can feel, it's time to repurpose...

Yeah, stove burners. The sterilizers are much smaller. You fill the tank with gasoline. Using a bicycle type pump, you pressurize it (just a little bit, 2-3 psi). Light it, and the heat generated will pressurize it up to the green range on the dial. The pressure has to be monitored closely...

That can actually blow dirt into the jacket of the rope. Vacuuming is probably better. Or just rinse off.

True, but OTOH good habits are always a good idea.

Nope. Nothing is 100% UV stable (including steel, for various values of stable) but ideally you should minimize all UV exposure. Some of the high performance synthetics (spectra, etc) are pretty much OK but as a rule it's best to minimize the exposure if able. If not, inspect and replace as...

Just keep them out of the sun as much as possible.

Hose them off, wash them in a bucket with a little soap, rinse well, hang to dry out of the sun.... Thats how we wash rescue lifeline, too.

Got that right. A filter is a lot cheaper than a lens, or even having a lens repaired.

I used to run Larsen 5/8 wave NMO antennas cut for 148 Mhz by chart, and got < 2:1 SWR from 143 to 158 Mhz, and less than 3:1 at 172Mhz.... Getting that SWR I never bothered to tweak the antenna further. YMMV.

A 2 meter or dual 2 meter / 440 should do. I am partial to Icom and Yaesu brands. Both have detachable faceplate models. So do Kenwood, and others.