"TrailTop" modular trailer topper building components
- Thread starter jscherb
- Start date
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Mason,
I'm sorry but the Trailtop components are not currently available for purchase - I just design and build these projects as a hobby, I don't sell anything. But I'll keep everyone here informed in the event a company signs up to bring them to market.
FWIW, at the retail prices I have to pay for fiberglass materials a complete kit of parts for a Traildog camper cost between $150 and $200 to mold, depending on a few options.
jeff
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Since I wanted to make the TrailDog adaptable to multiple requirements and sizes, I designed it with the center section of the roof and the floor being parallel. That way the shell can easily be stretched or shrunk as the builder's requirements dictate just by lengthening or shortening the roof (and of course the side panels lengthened to match), and using the same 30- and 60-degree angle components. This one is 9' long and 4' tall; it could easily be made 10' long and 5' tall by lengthening a few of the Trailtop components - which are molded in 8' lengths anyway, so the camper below could be lengthened about 4' to 13' without any extra joints in the fiberglass parts.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
A while back I expanded the capacity and capability of my military trailer by building a chuck wagon/cargo section that goes between the tub and the fiberglass lid.
Before:
After:
The photo above on the right is a work in progress shot; the hatches are open but the compartments inside that hatches aren't built yet; also the sink is just propped up on sticks. The new section attaches to the tub using the same latches and hinges that the lid uses and matching latch strikers and hinges are on the top of the new section for attaching the lid. The new section is modular and disassembles quickly into the 4 walls and is easily removable for times when I want to use the trailer as an open trailer.
The reason I molded the Trailtop straight sections the other day is that I'm going to build a similar section for my Jeep tub trailer. Since the military trailer is all right angles, it was easy to build the section out of wood, but the Jeep tub trailer has curved corners so the new section will be made with Trailtop parts - they match the corners of the Jeep tub.
Here's a concept drawing of a simple cargo section.
It will be made of plywood, with Trailtop sections at the corners to match the curve of the tub and the Trailtop lid. I haven't decided how I'll do the rear door yet, it could be separately hinged and the drop-down tailgate could remain in place, or I might swap the tailgate for a Wrangler side-swing tailgate and attach the top section to the tailgate like the barn door on my LJ:
The new section will be a modular design - two end panels and two side panels that will bolt together. They will unbolt for easy removal and the whole unit will store flat when they're off the trailer. This concept image shows just the end panels in place; the side panels are removed.
Before:
After:
The photo above on the right is a work in progress shot; the hatches are open but the compartments inside that hatches aren't built yet; also the sink is just propped up on sticks. The new section attaches to the tub using the same latches and hinges that the lid uses and matching latch strikers and hinges are on the top of the new section for attaching the lid. The new section is modular and disassembles quickly into the 4 walls and is easily removable for times when I want to use the trailer as an open trailer.
The reason I molded the Trailtop straight sections the other day is that I'm going to build a similar section for my Jeep tub trailer. Since the military trailer is all right angles, it was easy to build the section out of wood, but the Jeep tub trailer has curved corners so the new section will be made with Trailtop parts - they match the corners of the Jeep tub.
Here's a concept drawing of a simple cargo section.
It will be made of plywood, with Trailtop sections at the corners to match the curve of the tub and the Trailtop lid. I haven't decided how I'll do the rear door yet, it could be separately hinged and the drop-down tailgate could remain in place, or I might swap the tailgate for a Wrangler side-swing tailgate and attach the top section to the tailgate like the barn door on my LJ:
The new section will be a modular design - two end panels and two side panels that will bolt together. They will unbolt for easy removal and the whole unit will store flat when they're off the trailer. This concept image shows just the end panels in place; the side panels are removed.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I've been traveling since the day after I pulled the second TrailTop part out of the mold so I haven't had any time to work on the project until today.
First thing I did was bolt together a Dinoot tub in an extra room. This tub is the same length as my yellow trailer and will allow me to fit the parts without installing them on the actual trailer.
I cut the TrailTop parts into 31" pieces; here I'm holding two corners in place, to see how the overall height of the trailer will be. The TrailTop parts are still a little green looking, that's because I haven't washed the mold release off yet. Headroom inside will be a little over 48" from floor to ceiling when the lid is installed. It'll be a lot more when the lid is raised, I'll be able to stand at the tall end (I'm b6'6").
I've also got another Dinoot panel in the workshop; I'll use it for fitting the end panels as I build them, and then I'll take them to the spare room to fit on the test tub.
The next thing I plan to do is assemble a solid end panel using two of the straight rails.
First thing I did was bolt together a Dinoot tub in an extra room. This tub is the same length as my yellow trailer and will allow me to fit the parts without installing them on the actual trailer.
I cut the TrailTop parts into 31" pieces; here I'm holding two corners in place, to see how the overall height of the trailer will be. The TrailTop parts are still a little green looking, that's because I haven't washed the mold release off yet. Headroom inside will be a little over 48" from floor to ceiling when the lid is installed. It'll be a lot more when the lid is raised, I'll be able to stand at the tall end (I'm b6'6").
I've also got another Dinoot panel in the workshop; I'll use it for fitting the end panels as I build them, and then I'll take them to the spare room to fit on the test tub.
The next thing I plan to do is assemble a solid end panel using two of the straight rails.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Yes, it's self supporting. Here are a few more views of it, I use it on several of my Jeeps. It's a DIY project, cost me about $45 to build. It's based on a window blind I picked up at Ikea. I documented it here: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...for-JK-factory-hardtops?p=2348288#post2348288, details continue over the next few pages.
A little more about it here: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...for-JK-factory-hardtops?p=2350131#post2350131
and here: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...for-JK-factory-hardtops?p=2352921#post2352921
and one more detail here: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...for-JK-factory-hardtops?p=2380706#post2380706
Sorry, it's not the main subject of the thread it's in so there are bits of info in a few places in the thread.
A little more about it here: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...for-JK-factory-hardtops?p=2350131#post2350131
and here: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...for-JK-factory-hardtops?p=2352921#post2352921
and one more detail here: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...for-JK-factory-hardtops?p=2380706#post2380706
Sorry, it's not the main subject of the thread it's in so there are bits of info in a few places in the thread.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
This morning I finished up the basic framing for the tub topper. Plywood skins will be fitted to each end panel, and separate side panels will be made that bolt the the flanges on the end panels, so the entire structure can be removed and stored flat for times when I need to use the trailer without the top.
Haven't decided exactly how tall I'll make the rear door, so I still need to add a top jamb member.
The lid that's on the trailer now will be hinged onto the topper, and to do that I need to add a bevel to the top of the panels just like the bevel on a Jeep tub. I'll make up the bevels next.
Haven't decided exactly how tall I'll make the rear door, so I still need to add a top jamb member.
The lid that's on the trailer now will be hinged onto the topper, and to do that I need to add a bevel to the top of the panels just like the bevel on a Jeep tub. I'll make up the bevels next.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I'd like to, but making the door taller would require a section of another door to splice in so both the inner and outer skins matched. I had a second door but got rid of it a year ago because I've got too much crap around here.
Space Wrangler
Observer
Or just splice a piece on the top portion of the door ?