The old 1999 build thread

['round n' back again]

Its been my experience and generally accepted good idea concerning sway bars to eliminate both or none at all.
a rig with no bars will sway evenly until tip point. there are no counter forces acting to cause unpredictability, just greater body roll. this is assuming suspension is at factory spec.

eliminating just one bar, makes poo come out.
The twisting force of body roll works differently on each end of the rig. so one may over steer or may understeer , the front may try to roll and the rear try to stand up straight. fighting the front because there is a rear bar and there is no front. etc.
Toastys new suspension; tight and properly aligned held sway to a minimum and he had no screwball dynamics acting on the entire rig as both bars were eliminated.

once you become accustomed to no sway bars , you will factor in the sway and just"roll with it".

 

[PA_JERO]

I didnt know driving a montero "with" sway bars existed. Either way, I've driven mine loaded to the max with a full roof rack down the highway with tight turns, mountain roads, straight shots at 75/80 mph. No worries.

 

[RyanY]

Its been my experience and generally accepted good idea concerning sway bars to eliminate both or none at all.
a rig with no bars will sway evenly until tip point. there are no counter forces acting to cause unpredictability, just greater body roll. this is assuming suspension is at factory spec.
eliminating just one bar, makes poo come out.
The twisting force of body roll works differently on each end of the rig. so one may over steer or may understeer , the front may try to roll and the rear try to stand up straight. fighting the front because there is a rear bar and there is no front. etc.
Toastys new suspension; tight and properly aligned held sway to a minimum and he had no screwball dynamics acting on the entire rig as both bars were eliminated.

Removing just the rear bar will increase the amount of understeer, while removing just the front bar will increase the amount of oversteer. Understeer is generally considered to be the safer alternative for street vehicles, and is the way that most auto manufacturers tune their factory suspensions, so removing the rear bar makes the most sense if you're only going to remove one. Note though, that the Montero's suspension balance would have been set up to understeer from the factory, so removing the rear bar will make the understeer even stronger - under hard cornering or in an emergency maneuver where you're swerving to avoid something, the Montero will want to continue to plow ahead rather than turn.

Personally I don't feel it's safe to tow anything with the sway bars removed since any amount of trailer sway will have much more of an effect on the vehicle with it's reduced resistance to body-roll.

Toasty - I'm excited to hear that the big brakes are doing what you'd hoped they would. I need to get over there and check out your set-up in person.

 

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

X2 on Ryan's comments above. He oughtta know.

John B.

 

[Toasty]

Finally started on the kickouts for my sliders, a whole bunch of years later. I always intended to have tubing with a rear kickout to match the curvature of the body. A little less aggressive than the ones on my old Mighty Max. Just need to fab up the little legs for the insides and I can weld these hogs on, had I done this when I started the sliders FOREVER ago I'd have a better passenger door.

So here's my little update.

 

[jms_brns]

Finally started on the kickouts for my sliders, a whole bunch of years later. I always intended to have tubing with a rear kickout to match the curvature of the body. A little less aggressive than the ones on my old Mighty Max. Just need to fab up the little legs for the insides and I can weld these hogs on, had I done this when I started the sliders FOREVER ago I'd have a better passenger door.

So here's my little update.

I hope these are being added to the ADD product line!! Sliders are near the top of my list of upgrades, and these are exactly the type I'd be looking for.

 

[Toasty]

Lead time 10 years! Ha Ha Ha! kidding.

 

[snare]

i want kickouts.

 

[Toasty]

I installed the 4:1 T-case and driveshafts connected, need to work on my flat belly crossmember next. Super stoked to have a decent low range again!

 

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

Super stoked to have a decent low range again!

You mean to have a "decent low range" for the type of wheeling you want to do, like slow speed crawling. Let's not give people the impression that their Montero is inadequate. It's not.

John B.

 

[PA_JERO]

You mean to have a "decent low range" for the type of wheeling you want to do, like slow speed crawling. Let's not give people the impression that their Montero is inadequate. It's not.

John B.

I put 4:1 in my truck, and never looked back. Because that's how I roll.

 

[Toasty]

You mean to have a "decent low range" for the type of wheeling you want to do, like slow speed crawling. Let's not give people the impression that their Montero is inadequate. It's not.

John B.

You're right (almost)
The majority would be perfect with Marks 2.72 kit, which you need more than you need an RD110. If anyone is planning on a front locker or 33"+ tires get the Aussie gear kit FIRST. Trust me less strain on the truck and capability far exceeding a front locker and stock 1.90:1 T-case gearing.

 

[Toasty]

LIMITED OFFER ONLY AVAILABLE TO JBFP! I will personally install your 2.72 gear kit into a donor T-Case that i will supply if you buy the gears.

 

[Toasty]

The money shot!

 

[Toasty]

2" bodylift is a prerequisite and cut the top left and the side left tabs off before installing. They clear but not by much, i cut mine after this pic. Wasn't hard but it would have been much easier out of the truck