Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I think Lexan is just a brand name for Polycarbonate plastic.
Blender, My LX450/FZJ80 + FJ45esk + GM + Land Rover crazy concoction
- Thread starter Metcalf
- Start date
I think Lexan is just a brand name for Polycarbonate plastic.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Oh. Shows what I know...
I always say that I know just enough about everything to get into trouble.
I always say that I know just enough about everything to get into trouble.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
This is the part that needs fixed...
Basically I want to raise the top of the OEM door post to match the new belt line of the chassis ( about 2.75" ). Forming this shape might be a bit of a challenge. I need to figure out a way to do it in about a 20" section also for when I make the upper door surround/seal surface that will attach to the B-pillar. I think I am going to make the upper part removeable, but the lower part I will weld in. I'll add another blind nut for a possible striker plate raise also....
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Just a bite....
I welded in the rear window panel mounting plate/gussets. These are what the panels will attach to in the 4 corners. These are offset about 1/4" from the rib to allow space for the bulb seal to go all the way around the opening.
The compression of the bulb seal (panel location ) will be set but a threaded aluminum spacer that will be attached to the window panel carriage bolt. Then on the inside there will be a wing nut, thumb screw, or threaded knob.
Just one of the those details I am trying to plan ahead for....
I welded in the rear window panel mounting plate/gussets. These are what the panels will attach to in the 4 corners. These are offset about 1/4" from the rib to allow space for the bulb seal to go all the way around the opening.
The compression of the bulb seal (panel location ) will be set but a threaded aluminum spacer that will be attached to the window panel carriage bolt. Then on the inside there will be a wing nut, thumb screw, or threaded knob.
Just one of the those details I am trying to plan ahead for....
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
I believe that pillar has roughly the same contour as the top beltline of the original tub. I had to contend with that same problem on the FJ40 buggy I built, and I'm pretty sure we sourced the part from the pieces we cut off the back.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Darn. The back of the tub is long gone....
I'll start messing around folding up that shape tonight.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Something new to work on....
I need to extend the door post up about 3" to match the new rear body line. This is a pain in the butt shape for sure. There is a little reverse bend I need to match. I also want to make a removable door surround for the upper half of the door so I figured it was worth investing a little time in making something to help me.....
Started by making a little chipboard template for the top cap. I'll need to make a few of these eventually in some 1/8" steel, but I was more concerned about having a way to transfer the shape for now....
A couple hours later I had this! I decided to make some 'pullmax' style tooling to form this shape in straps of sheetmetal. Basically, you form the metal a bit at a time using a die with limited length. I plan on using this in my little HF press in stages.
I made the dies with pretty simple tools. I basically drilled all the inside corners with a 1/4" bit to match the radius I needed. Then connected the dots with the bandsaw in the vertical position. After some file work to clean up the shape I cut off the section in the bandsaw the other direction. The same was done for the female portion of the tie after scribing the make shape in transfer. The female side required a little more work with the files, but came together pretty nice.
Tomorrow I will get everything welded into a little assembly along with round up a few springs to use on the guide rods. Then I should be ready to make one of the test panels.
The other part of this construct will just be a simple 90 part and it will overlap the formed part in the striker plate area. I am going to give myself an extra fastener for that in case I want to raise the door latch a bit too.
Once I am more comfortable with how the die works I will form the 21" tall sections for the upper door surround. I think I am going to make that a bolt in part to allow a little more elbow room when the upper part of the door is removed.....similar to how the door surround works on like a jeep TJ.
I need to extend the door post up about 3" to match the new rear body line. This is a pain in the butt shape for sure. There is a little reverse bend I need to match. I also want to make a removable door surround for the upper half of the door so I figured it was worth investing a little time in making something to help me.....
Started by making a little chipboard template for the top cap. I'll need to make a few of these eventually in some 1/8" steel, but I was more concerned about having a way to transfer the shape for now....
A couple hours later I had this! I decided to make some 'pullmax' style tooling to form this shape in straps of sheetmetal. Basically, you form the metal a bit at a time using a die with limited length. I plan on using this in my little HF press in stages.
I made the dies with pretty simple tools. I basically drilled all the inside corners with a 1/4" bit to match the radius I needed. Then connected the dots with the bandsaw in the vertical position. After some file work to clean up the shape I cut off the section in the bandsaw the other direction. The same was done for the female portion of the tie after scribing the make shape in transfer. The female side required a little more work with the files, but came together pretty nice.
Tomorrow I will get everything welded into a little assembly along with round up a few springs to use on the guide rods. Then I should be ready to make one of the test panels.
The other part of this construct will just be a simple 90 part and it will overlap the formed part in the striker plate area. I am going to give myself an extra fastener for that in case I want to raise the door latch a bit too.
Once I am more comfortable with how the die works I will form the 21" tall sections for the upper door surround. I think I am going to make that a bolt in part to allow a little more elbow room when the upper part of the door is removed.....similar to how the door surround works on like a jeep TJ.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Saw your video last night. Looks like it works fine. I couldn't stop thinking about how to bend that in a normal sheetmetal brake, and it would be possible. Maybe you could do as someone suggested and start it with a brake and finish with the dies, or even come back at the end and crisp up the lines with a brake.
I even thought about how to make it with the help of bead rolling dies.
Would be nice to not have to finish it with a hammer and dolly.
I even thought about how to make it with the help of bead rolling dies.
Would be nice to not have to finish it with a hammer and dolly.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
But I don't have your finger sheetmetal brake or bead roller.....yet. Sometimes you just have to make due. This ended up working pretty slick honestly.
Once I went back over things with a few more passes it looked fine no need for any post work.
Making the dies out of a softer material....aluminum or plastic...would make it even better.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I love it when a plan comes together....
This is what the 'Pullmax' style die looked like mounted in a simple spring return holder. The guide rods are 0.120" wall x 0.750" pins inside some 1" OD sleeves. The springs are a #51 from the local ACE hardware store.
The entire contraption is installed in my HF 20 ton press....
I had someone ask me to make a video about how it works.
https://youtu.be/B-ZI00D0MTQ
Sorry it is long and pretty boring. Overall the concept worked really well for the time invested. It makes me want to get a real pullmax machine! This is a good tool option to have in your back pocket in a home shop. I think it could be improved upon by making a universal holder for the dies. Basically something that could clamp the die. The dies could also be made of something like derlin or HDPE for sheetmetal work. That probably wouldn't ding up the material.
This was the 1st section of bend that I made...
So why all the fuss....
Since I raised the rear belt line of the chassis about 3" from stock, the door post didn't line up any longer. The little tool made the outside section of the door seal area. I bent up a small 90 section that overlapped in the door latch area and tied back into the cage B-pillar post. The top cap is 1/8" material and I kept a hole in the top to allow me to pin in the future upper door surround. I also added another 8mm mounting bolt in case I want to raise the door latch/striker up a bit.
I decided to try and push my skills a little bit by TIG welding the entire assembly into place. While I may be getting half way decent at welding on the bench, welding out of position on thin metal is still a challenge for sure. I am having pretty good luck with .045 filler for thin sheetmetal. That seems to really make a difference.
I think the TIG makes for a little easier clean up since you have more control of the heat input vs filler material height. The new air compressor is SOOO nice for cleaning up stuff like this. I was able to use a die grinder with a 3" cut off wheel to remove the proud part of the weld really quick. Then used a 2" roll-lock pad on the angle grinder with a 36gr-80gr-Scothbrite series to make things look pretty dang decent. It isn't perfect, but a little high build primer or a skim of filler....way good enough for me.
Onto the other side....
This is what the 'Pullmax' style die looked like mounted in a simple spring return holder. The guide rods are 0.120" wall x 0.750" pins inside some 1" OD sleeves. The springs are a #51 from the local ACE hardware store.
The entire contraption is installed in my HF 20 ton press....
I had someone ask me to make a video about how it works.
https://youtu.be/B-ZI00D0MTQ
Sorry it is long and pretty boring. Overall the concept worked really well for the time invested. It makes me want to get a real pullmax machine! This is a good tool option to have in your back pocket in a home shop. I think it could be improved upon by making a universal holder for the dies. Basically something that could clamp the die. The dies could also be made of something like derlin or HDPE for sheetmetal work. That probably wouldn't ding up the material.
This was the 1st section of bend that I made...
So why all the fuss....
Since I raised the rear belt line of the chassis about 3" from stock, the door post didn't line up any longer. The little tool made the outside section of the door seal area. I bent up a small 90 section that overlapped in the door latch area and tied back into the cage B-pillar post. The top cap is 1/8" material and I kept a hole in the top to allow me to pin in the future upper door surround. I also added another 8mm mounting bolt in case I want to raise the door latch/striker up a bit.
I decided to try and push my skills a little bit by TIG welding the entire assembly into place. While I may be getting half way decent at welding on the bench, welding out of position on thin metal is still a challenge for sure. I am having pretty good luck with .045 filler for thin sheetmetal. That seems to really make a difference.
I think the TIG makes for a little easier clean up since you have more control of the heat input vs filler material height. The new air compressor is SOOO nice for cleaning up stuff like this. I was able to use a die grinder with a 3" cut off wheel to remove the proud part of the weld really quick. Then used a 2" roll-lock pad on the angle grinder with a 36gr-80gr-Scothbrite series to make things look pretty dang decent. It isn't perfect, but a little high build primer or a skim of filler....way good enough for me.
Onto the other side....
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Onto pedals and steering after I finished the 2nd door post.
Door post P. This one turned out pretty nice. It's always amazing to see the difference in quality vs time input on consecutive parts.
Then this happened....
I needed to remove the clutch pedal pivot. I found out that the pivot bolt was seized to the bushing sleeve right after it popped the weld nut off. I tried using a punch to break it loose....then an air hammer on the punch....nothing worked. My last resort was to cut out the bracket and lop the head off the pin bolt. This let me remove the entire thing as a unit....
This is where I ended up this evening. The general plan. I straightened out the brake pedal in the press and chopped off the small factory pad. I then made a new pedal out of some flat bar that I crowned in the press. Then tack welded that in place on the old pedal arm after measuring a few difference vehicles to try and figure out the pedal offset. I think its close. I might cut 1/2" off the outside to give a bit better foot rest area and access to a floor dimmer switch?
I am going to use the booster and master from the 80-series chassis. It shouldn't be too hard to make an adapter, they seem to be pretty common. Mine is going to have to be a little different since I am moving things to the clutch side. The hardest part is probably going to be making an extension for the pushrod/clevis thing.
Door post P. This one turned out pretty nice. It's always amazing to see the difference in quality vs time input on consecutive parts.
Then this happened....
I needed to remove the clutch pedal pivot. I found out that the pivot bolt was seized to the bushing sleeve right after it popped the weld nut off. I tried using a punch to break it loose....then an air hammer on the punch....nothing worked. My last resort was to cut out the bracket and lop the head off the pin bolt. This let me remove the entire thing as a unit....
This is where I ended up this evening. The general plan. I straightened out the brake pedal in the press and chopped off the small factory pad. I then made a new pedal out of some flat bar that I crowned in the press. Then tack welded that in place on the old pedal arm after measuring a few difference vehicles to try and figure out the pedal offset. I think its close. I might cut 1/2" off the outside to give a bit better foot rest area and access to a floor dimmer switch?
I am going to use the booster and master from the 80-series chassis. It shouldn't be too hard to make an adapter, they seem to be pretty common. Mine is going to have to be a little different since I am moving things to the clutch side. The hardest part is probably going to be making an extension for the pushrod/clevis thing.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
How much do you have to extend the pushrod? A lot of times, I will cut the nut off the clevis and then thread a piece of tubing, cut it to the length I need, and then weld it onto the clevis. It's easier than lengthening sheetmetal part of the clevis and allows for more adjustment. If the nut is built into the clevis, then either drill it out or make sure the thread phasing is the same as the new welded on portion.
I have a pic somewhere...
Here it is.
I have a pic somewhere...
Here it is.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
How much do you have to extend the pushrod? A lot of times, I will cut the nut off the clevis and then thread a piece of tubing, cut it to the length I need, and then weld it onto the clevis. It's easier than lengthening sheetmetal part of the clevis and allows for more adjustment. If the nut is built into the clevis, then either drill it out or make sure the thread phasing is the same as the new welded on portion.
I have a pic somewhere...
Here it is.
Thanks matt, that is a good idea. I'm not sure how far I will have to extend it yet. I could chop out a section of the firewall rib, but I'll get the booster/master up there and see. I basically need to build and adapter from the 3 bolt pattern from the fire wall side to the studs on the back of the booster. There will be some minimum to that I imagine unless I cut out the rib and firewall and start over.....which I don't want to do really....
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Another piece of the puzzle....
I was able to get the mockup done on the bracket that mounts the J80 booster and master to the FJ40 firewall....on the clutch side. With the engine mounted so high in the chassis the space on the original brake side was pretty tight. Moving it over the clutch side also moved the master away from the passenger side exhaust manifold.
The clevis push rod needs to be extended a few inches. I also want to add a few fasteners to tie my new bracket into the factory firewall brace rib.
A few more misc pictures....
Need to fix that little spot so I don't have to trim the inside studs on the booster. I really like being able to use intact unmodified OEM parts when I can ( I don't care if they come from 100 different vehices! ).
Shop tip.
If you need to mark the bottom of a long hole, take the pen apart and use just the ink tube thingy.
Next...
I was able to get the mockup done on the bracket that mounts the J80 booster and master to the FJ40 firewall....on the clutch side. With the engine mounted so high in the chassis the space on the original brake side was pretty tight. Moving it over the clutch side also moved the master away from the passenger side exhaust manifold.
The clevis push rod needs to be extended a few inches. I also want to add a few fasteners to tie my new bracket into the factory firewall brace rib.
A few more misc pictures....
Need to fix that little spot so I don't have to trim the inside studs on the booster. I really like being able to use intact unmodified OEM parts when I can ( I don't care if they come from 100 different vehices! ).
Shop tip.
If you need to mark the bottom of a long hole, take the pen apart and use just the ink tube thingy.
Next...
