Converting a factory JK/JKU hardtop to modular

unkamonkey

Explorer
Interesting Scherb, Odd how when I sent rebel off road an email about this and that was the excuse I got from them. Claiming its was nothing more then for athletics and couldn't withstand the weight of a fuel roto.. So yes I WAS misinformed by the manufacture.
Strange, as in gasoline weighs less than water...
 
My comments above are not about my creditably, but the creditably of the manufactures who misinformation me. If their information is wrong and because I'm not aware of how the system works, then everyone seems to point at me as being the faulty chain in the link. As I said.. The manufacture of the window insert told me via email, at the time I emailed them, that the window rotopax holder was nothing more than for athletics and held a white medical roto container. So it's apparent that over time, they've changed their stance on this without notifying me of this change. Clearly there those manufacture who hire person to maintain their social media sites which said person have no clue as to how any of these devices products function. Because of their lack of creditability, I'll not do business with them.
 

jscherb

Expedition Leader
Someday when I get time I'm going to mold a fiberglass storage compartment insert for the factory hardtop, something like this:

RemovableCompartment1_zpshubjgxac.jpg


One consideration for that (and for any use of the blank retrofit kit, which is why I bring it up now) is the depth available between the hardtop and the sport bar. This photo shows a tracing I made in a 2 door - I measured the depth possible at the top and bottom - 2" at the top and 4.5" at the bottom.

2drSportBarClearance_zpsrw5hoyzc.jpg


The compartment could be any depth desired in front of the sport bar, but at the sport bar it would have to be no more than 2" deep at the top and 4.5" deep at the bottom. It could be that depth across the entire width as in the concept drawing at the top of this post, or it could be deeper in front of the bar and that depth at the bar. I haven't decided yet how I'll make the fiberglass cargo compartment. One consideration - if the depth is constant across the width I can make one mold and the compartments from that mold will fit on either side of the Jeep. If I make it deeper in front of the bar I'll have to make left and right molds.

Some cargo compartment concepts:

RemovableCompartment5_zpsb17caocd.jpg


RemovableCompartment4_zpsxnc5otch.jpg


RemovableCompartment3_zpsy9nqxdj4.jpg
 

JDaPP

Adventurer
My comments above are not about my creditably, but the creditably of the manufactures who misinformation me. If their information is wrong and because I'm not aware of how the system works, then everyone seems to point at me as being the faulty chain in the link. As I said.. The manufacture of the window insert told me via email, at the time I emailed them, that the window rotopax holder was nothing more than for athletics and held a white medical roto container. So it's apparent that over time, they've changed their stance on this without notifying me of this change. Clearly there those manufacture who hire person to maintain their social media sites which said person have no clue as to how any of these devices products function. Because of their lack of creditability, I'll not do business with them.

Might be a liability thing too. I have had a couple of manufacturers give me the "although it can, we don't recommend be because of xXxX"
 

Comanche Scott

Expedition Leader
Someday when I get time I'm going to mold a fiberglass storage compartment insert for the factory hardtop, something like this:

RemovableCompartment1_zpshubjgxac.jpg


One consideration for that (and for any use of the blank retrofit kit, which is why I bring it up now) is the depth available between the hardtop and the sport bar. This photo shows a tracing I made in a 2 door - I measured the depth possible at the top and bottom - 2" at the top and 4.5" at the bottom.

2drSportBarClearance_zpsrw5hoyzc.jpg


The compartment could be any depth desired in front of the sport bar, but at the sport bar it would have to be no more than 2" deep at the top and 4.5" deep at the bottom. It could be that depth across the entire width as in the concept drawing at the top of this post, or it could be deeper in front of the bar and that depth at the bar. I haven't decided yet how I'll make the fiberglass cargo compartment. One consideration - if the depth is constant across the width I can make one mold and the compartments from that mold will fit on either side of the Jeep. If I make it deeper in front of the bar I'll have to make left and right molds.

Some cargo compartment concepts:

RemovableCompartment5_zpsb17caocd.jpg

RemovableCompartment4_zpsxnc5otch.jpg


RemovableCompartment3_zpsy9nqxdj4.jpg

I like this idea, quite a bit. In considering this, I've been going back and forth as to whether the "floor" of the recess should be flat, or slightly angled down towards the hatch, so that water from rain, snow, recovery gear would drain out with the door open.
Flat is nice because the floor could support things on them without a retention net, or bar.
So I'm really up in the air on that idea. What do you think?
 

jscherb

Expedition Leader
I like this idea, quite a bit. In considering this, I've been going back and forth as to whether the "floor" of the recess should be flat, or slightly angled down towards the hatch, so that water from rain, snow, recovery gear would drain out with the door open.
Flat is nice because the floor could support things on them without a retention net, or bar.
So I'm really up in the air on that idea. What do you think?

Scott,
That's a good thought, I guess I'd say it should slope slightly for drainage, but it won't have to slope more than a degree or two. I'm not sure if it would be best to have it slope towards the hatch as you say, or perhaps slope to the outside of the Jeep, I'll have to give that some thought before I make a mold for one of these.

Several ways you could keep things from sliding out when the hatch is opened:

- Have a low cargo net across the bottom, maybe 3" high.

- A bungee cord stretched across, maybe 2" high

- A metal rod across, ~2" high

- A vertical lip at the edge, maybe 1/2" high, but with breaks in it for drainage.
 

Comanche Scott

Expedition Leader
Cool ideas! :)
The cargo net on your rear storage tray is what got me thinking about that. Would definitely be a nice tie-in for the whole Jeep, and very functional.
I think that is my personal favorite. Would also lend itself to short and tall objects.
One of the other thoughts I had came from your table design on the fridge slider (which I also think is really cool). If the hatch opened upwards, their could be an inner table that folded down. maybe just half or 1/4 the height. Just enough to be able to lay stuff on while using, or putting things away.
 

jscherb

Expedition Leader
Cool ideas! :)
The cargo net on your rear storage tray is what got me thinking about that. Would definitely be a nice tie-in for the whole Jeep, and very functional.
I think that is my personal favorite. Would also lend itself to short and tall objects.
One of the other thoughts I had came from your table design on the fridge slider (which I also think is really cool). If the hatch opened upwards, their could be an inner table that folded down. maybe just half or 1/4 the height. Just enough to be able to lay stuff on while using, or putting things away.

Yes, could do a small shelf inside if the main hatch opens up, good idea.
 

jscherb

Expedition Leader
A 2dr window opening is the perfect size to make a mounting recess for a 20 liter (5.3 gallon) Rubican. I propped a Rubican in front of the hardtop to check the size:

2drRubican20L_zpsvmbhccrf.jpg
 
*facepalm* Scherb, it doesn't matter where you mount this on the hard top, it would still obstruct the view.. But then again it would appeal to a particular crowd of jeepers I suppose. How about this, create pockets in place of the roof windows.. that way you can mount these on top (flush mount) of the roof under any other rigging or roof rails.. Actually you could do this so the spout would be near or almost nearly off the edge of the roof for ease of access.
 

rubicon91

Explorer
*facepalm* Scherb, it doesn't matter where you mount this on the hard top, it would still obstruct the view.. But then again it would appeal to a particular crowd of jeepers I suppose. How about this, create pockets in place of the roof windows.. that way you can mount these on top (flush mount) of the roof under any other rigging or roof rails.. Actually you could do this so the spout would be near or almost nearly off the edge of the roof for ease of access.
When was last time you looked over your left shoulder driving and utilized the rear side hardtop window? Or better yet can you even see that window if you did look over your left shoulder in the first place. Lmfao!!!!!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

Jurfie

Adventurer
When was last time you looked over your left shoulder driving and utilized the rear side hardtop window?

On a JKU, I'd agree 100%, but on a JK: all the time. I think most people would want the retrofit kit for a slider, windoor, vent or completely removable side Windsor, but you'll still get some people who use theirs as a trail rig who would like this.
 
The objective is to create a non-obstructed 360° view around the vehicle. Thus overtime our rear seat headrest and spare tire would need to be relocated.

Also, in accordance to the forum's moderation team, I've just been notified that I've been placed on probation. Thus several members of the forum, have now been placed on my ignore list as to avoid any further confrontations.
 

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