Converting a factory JK/JKU hardtop to modular
- Thread starter jscherb
- Start date
jscherb
Expedition Leader
No brackets are required, but you will need to drill access holes in the inner skin of the rear panel for the bolts.
This photo shows where I've bolted the Safari Cab rear panel to the tub, the same location can be used for the modular conversion.
The Safari Cab rear panel doesn't have an inside skin, so the flange to bolt to the tub is exposed. Since the factory hardtop has an inside skin, you'll need to cut access holes in the inside skin for the bolts. There is a tub flange in there, you just need access holes to get the bolts in. The red lines show where you might cut access holes:
Does this answer your question?
It surely does, thanks. I was just looking at it and was thinking I needed a piece of flat bar bolted permanently to the tub horizontally and a separate one to each strut bracket and bolt together once the top is on. With your idea, I can drill a small access with a hole saw and be good to go. Thanks.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Great, glad I could help. Happy to answer any more questions you might have, and if you are doing the conversion, please share photos here for other people who are thinking about doing the project too.
Will do. I found a 2015 rear section only top from an auto body shop yesterday; picking it up this Sunday. No side glass installed but it comes with a set to install, and no rear glass. I am probably going to remove the side window panels and eventually make them modular using your instructions here, but I am also awaiting the release of the sliding side windows you designed and may get a set. The company should be releasing them soon.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I see JK and JKU hardtops without windows all the time on Craigslist for $200 or less and every time I see one I think they're a perfect candidate for doing a modular conversion and installing the slider window kit. Someone's already done the work of removing the factory glass, all that's required is a quick install of the sliders
.About the sliders, I had a final call with the window company today to give them a few minor tweaks I wanted to see before approving the windows for volume production. They should be sending me a final set early next week so I can verify the changes; full production can happen right after that. Should only be a matter of weeks before they can be bought.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I see JK and JKU hardtops without windows all the time on Craigslist for $200 or less and every time I see one I think they're a perfect candidate for doing a modular conversion and installing the slider window kit. Someone's already done the work of removing the factory glass, all that's required is a quick install of the sliders
Like this one for $100: https://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/pts/6001199594.html
Or this color-match one for $200: https://youngstown.craigslist.org/pts/5967609209.html. (Much easier to repaint to your own color than a non-color-match top, much less sanding on this one.)
Down here in the Dallas Fort Worth area hard tops are a rare find. The top I found yesterday is a white body color one for $250. Looking for the best satin black textured spray can paint to match the OEM black top color. Best choice I have found so far is Duplicolor bed liner.
02rangeredge
Adventurer
from everything I've read that stuff comes out pretty smooth- just an fyi if you're looking for texture
jscherb
Expedition Leader
In my experience with rattle can texture finishes (and with spray gun texture finishes as well), you can control the texture with the distance between the nozzle and the surface and the thickness of each coat - usually a longer distance will result in greater texture. It's worth experimenting with on a piece of scrap before you shoot your actual project, you may find that you can get exactly the texture you're looking for.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I'm here to help - if you've got any questions or need anything I've posted to be clarified, just post up your questions and I'll do my best to answer.
Yuke
Adventurer
Thanks Jeff, I am sure I will. I am told the top has a small crack but I could not notice any from the pictures. A local jeep club member got hers replaced under warranty and is being nice enough to give me the old top. I am sure I will have questions.
I am also eager to document the process from my eyes and I think you'll be happy to see you inspired me to take it on!
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Does it have windows? Most warranty tops I've seen don't have windows because they reuse the old ones in the new top. Sounds like you'll need a set of sliders for it
.Yes, I'll read your documentation of the process with great interest!
Yuke
Adventurer
Does it have windows? Most warranty tops I've seen don't have windows because they reuse the old ones in the new top. Sounds like you'll need a set of sliders for it
Yes, I'll read your documentation of the process with great interest!
I am not sure. I think it may come with windows.
Either way I would want to replace with Sliders. A modular top with sliders would be my ultimate "overland" setup. Security when I want it, and the ability to take the top off on weekends. The rack makes it difficult to remove the hard top as is even with a another pair or two of hands.
Joel and I spoke recently about getting some sliders. Hopefully I hear from him soon once they are ready.