1971 Power Wagon camper project

toylandcruiser

Expedition Leader
I don't want to get involved with an engine swap. My ultimate rig would be with a Cummins 12V/NV4500m but I'm not ready for that at this time. I will have to look into the NV behind the Slant 6. I love big sixes, I have had several 90s Mercedes before they went to V6s and am also a big fan of the Ford 300-6. They are smooth, torquey, and very pleasant to drive in my experience. I have towed a goosneck cattle trailer with a 95 Ford F150 300-6 with little problems. There is alot of aftermarket support for the Slant 6 as well (mostly from Australia, they drag race them there). I think the axles may be 4.88s... I remember thinking they were geared extremely low.

The Dana 44 will have a hard time living with a Cummings. These closed knuckle 44s are not very strong.
 

justcuz

Explorer
There were two closed knuckle Dana 44's. If you have a true Dana 44 HD it will have the bigger outer balls and everything from the knuckles out is designed for higher GVW. The axle tubes should 1/2" wall. The hubs will be an external bolt pattern, which yours are. This is important to know the difference because if you choose to convert to front disc brakes you have to be sure of the axle, hub and knuckle size. The Dodge Power Wagon website has brackets and a parts list for the conversion.

The weak part on these are the axles themselves, not the housing or outers. Axles can be easily upgraded.
Nothing wrong with a closed knuckle front axle, Nissan and Toyota used them successfully years after domestics went to open knuckle designs.

The slant six can be made to run well, not as torque producing as a 300 Ford or 292 GM, but has solid internals, a good design and new technology can boost your torque and HP a bunch. Get a Petronix or factory electronic ignition, later model 2 1/4" exhaust manifold, two barrel intake and a cam. It will run great.

Power steering is done easily on these and you will want it. These old trucks on rough spots will yank the steering wheel out of your hands with regularity.

You got a cool truck, I will definitely be following your progress.
 
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toylandcruiser

Expedition Leader
There were two closed knuckle Dana 44's. If you have a true Dana 44 HD it will have the bigger outer balls and everything from the knuckles out is designed for higher GVW. The axle tubes should 1/2" wall. The hubs will be an external bolt pattern. This is important to know the difference because if you choose to convert to front disc brakes you have to be sure of the axle, hub and knuckle size. The Dodge Power Wagon website has brackets and a parts list for the conversion.

The weak part on these are the axles themselves, not the housing or outers. Axles can be easily upgraded.
Nothing wrong with a closed knuckle front axle, Nissan and Toyota used them successfully years after domestics went to open knuckle designs.

The slant six can be made to run well, not as torque producing as a 300 Ford or 292 GM, but has solid internals, a good design and new technology can boost your torque and HP a bunch. Get a Petronix or factory electronic ignition, later model 2 1/4" exhaust manifold, two barrel intake and a cam. It will run great.

Power steering is done easily on these and you will want it. These old trucks on rough spots will yank the steering wheel out of your hands with regularity.

You got a cool truck, I will definitely be following your progress.

Eh strength is marginally better between the two
 

justcuz

Explorer
From a weight carrying standpoint the HD is a 3500/3700 lb front axle. Marginally better than a light duty only from a gear and axle standpoint, the rest is way better.

For what he is using it for it is fine, if he decides on a Cummins later on then a 60 is in order.

The truck A833 only has a 3.09 first gear, so you need to be in low range to get a similar gear reduction to the granny gear in the NP435 in high range. Not a good transmission for a 4wd truck. I would look for an old 2 or 3 speed auxiliary trans or Ranger over/under drive to install. It may be cheaper than an NV4500.
 

mtm_motors

Observer
Thanks for all of the input, guys!

I don't think this truck will ever see a Cummins unless I hit the jackpot. Planning on just maintaining and improving in ways that make sense. I definitely plan on doing all the common Slant 6 mods. The A833 idea probably won't happen... not sure what I will come up with for gearing but I will keep the thread up to date.

I believe we have most of the parts for a power steering swap and we plan to do the swap - Evan said it was a bit of a bear on the road. I haven't driven the truck since it has gotten roadworthy.
 

justcuz

Explorer
Other than the steering box, you have tie rod ends, king pin bushings, spring bushings and wheel bearings.
Not much else to go wrong on these old trucks front axles.
If you do king pin bushings it should come in a kit with new felt wipers for the ball.
I don't remember if Rzeppa joints came as late as 1971, it may just have ujoints inside. I'm pretty sure it won't have tracta joints in that late of axle. If you have Rzeppas, check the balls and sockets for pitting and wear.
 

Big_Geek

Drop Bear
I also have a 1971 Power Wagon (W100). If you have any questions along the way, I'll happily share what I know.

Unless someone changed it along the way, you have an NP205 transfer case on that truck.

The front axles for '71 were all closed-knuckle. The good news is that swapping a newer axle in (up to '93) is pretty easy (typically only have to move the shock mounts from the back of the axle to the front). If you can find a Dana 60, you may consider making the swap. Parts for some of the Dana 44s are getting really hard to find. The Dana 60 has much greater aftermarket support.

The rear axle is a direct swap for all axles up to '93. I put a Dana 60 with 3.54 gears under mine. I'm probably going to switch to a D60 4.10 to match a D60 I picked up to go on the front.

I have a 318, but have had the /6 on other trucks. They last forever. I would drive it a bit and see if it's worth the effort of swapping.

68-71 have a unique clutch linkage. Prior years were hydraulic (and could be a real pain). Yours is mechanical and has a unique bell housing. Another thing to consider if you want to swap engines. The big block bell housings for these can be difficult to find and usually run about $500 when they come up for sale.

The wiring diagrams you find online for these trucks are wrong, so be careful with that.

The fuel tanks are problematic and 70-71 are unique. I've been through a few and finally moved to a fuel cell under the bed. Plenty of info on the Sweptline forums on how to make the switch.

My favorite upgrade by far is MSD ignition. It's like a totally different vehicle. Glad you're getting another Swepty back on the road!
 

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