1972 Series III 88"

proper4wd

Expedition Leader
1972 Series III 88", original USA import
LF.jpg


Needs an engine (it's disassembled in the back with a seized main bearing), and firewall repair. Frame is good enough.

On it's way from the UK next week
200tdi.jpg


Engine brokered by David at Urban Land Cruisers in Atlanta. Highly recommend David's company!

This will clearly be an ongoing project.
 

Snagger

Explorer
Being lft-hand drive, you'll have to do something with the steering to clear the turbo, like power steering, but a 200Tdi goes beautifully in a SIII. You'll also want to do something about gearing as it will be dreadfully under-geared for road use. 3.54 diffs work well on road, but it also affects low range for off road. That isn't a problem for torque, but does increase your crawling speed by 33% and reduces engine braking on descents, so isn't ideal. An overdrive is better. I have both because my 109 is more for daily use and expeditions, not for severe off roading. It's over geared now on road, but is better than with the 4.71 original diffs. 4.1 diffs would be ideal. I fitted SII Suffix B transfer box low range gears to my vehicle, which are 17% lower than Suffix C and later gears, including all SIII gears, which offsets half the effect of the later diffs in low range. This has given me reasonable gearing without chopping the chassis about to fit an LT77 and LT230 transmission.

Make sure you get decent engine mounting rubbers, too - many of them on the market are too hard and transmit a lot of vibration to the chassis. You should be able to dig a thumbnail into the rubber fairly easily, but most are too hard for that. A lot of people will say that the SIII transmission is too weak for a Tdi, but unless you drive very harshly or plan to rock crawl a lot, putting a lot of torque through the low gears, then it will be fine. Just make sure you give it an oil change every 10,000 miles or so and keep an eye on the levels, especially the main box, which tends to throw oil back into the transfer box as most didn't have sealing compound applied between the gear box rear bearing carrier and casing.

Have fun - it's a vehicle that'll put a big smile on your face!
 
Last edited:

proper4wd

Expedition Leader
Snagger, thanks for the info.

I will be installing power steering as stage II of the project (after it is running and driving). The engine is coming with the pump and bracketry, and I have P38 steering boxes available for $75 so it should be quite an inexpensive conversion.

I am under the impression that the stock steering gear will clear because I have a Defender (high turbo) 200Tdi. Thoughts?

Good notes on the engine mountings! Have you found a particular brand that works best? I was going to just order Genuine 200Tdi rubbers.
 

uk trailer guy

Observer
You did well, think they only exported '68 to '74, somethign like that. Emissions were one of it's downfalls, believe it or not - now look at Europe!

Enjoy, I've got a '76 SIII myself - love 'em! :)

home353.jpg
 

proper4wd

Expedition Leader
Adam, Good to see you back. May as well convert to discs while your at it. :)

-Jeff

Hi Jeff, it's good to be back. Excited to be working with a proper Land Rover again... I "swore off" the brand a couple years ago and slowly came to the realization it was Range Rovers and Discoveries I was tired of!

Have been looking at the ROAM parts a lot. We will see what this truck truly needs for brake work. At around $2500 to do all for corners the disc setup is pricey but a great value nonetheless.
 

LR Max

Local Oaf
Being lft-hand drive, you'll have to do something with the steering to clear the turbo, like power steering, but a 200Tdi goes beautifully in a SIII. You'll also want to do something about gearing as it will be dreadfully under-geared for road use. 3.54 diffs work well on road, but it also affects low range for off road. That isn't a problem for torque, but does increase your crawling speed by 33% and reduces engine braking on descents, so isn't ideal. An overdrive is better. I have both because my 109 is more for daily use and expeditions, not for severe off roading. It's over geared now on road, but is better than with the 4.71 original diffs. 4.1 diffs would be ideal. I fitted SII Suffix B transfer box low range gears to my vehicle, which are 17% lower than Suffix C and later gears, including all SIII gears, which offsets half the effect of the later diffs in low range. This has given me reasonable gearing without chopping the chassis about to fit an LT77 and LT230 transmission.

Make sure you get decent engine mounting rubbers, too - many of them on the market are too hard and transmit a lot of vibration to the chassis. You should be able to dig a thumbnail into the rubber fairly easily, but most are too hard for that. A lot of people will say that the SIII transmission is too weak for a Tdi, but unless you drive very harshly or plan to rock crawl a lot, putting a lot of torque through the low gears, then it will be fine. Just make sure you give it an oil change every 10,000 miles or so and keep an eye on the levels, especially the main box, which tends to throw oil back into the transfer box as most didn't have sealing compound applied between the gear box rear bearing carrier and casing.

Have fun - it's a vehicle that'll put a big smile on your face!

I've also installed a Suffix B transfer case. LOVE IT especially when I run my 34" TSL tires. As for gearing, I'd say install an overdrive. I recently installed a roverdrive and they are very, very nice. Quick and easy. Great customer service (I ask a lot of questions).
 

proper4wd

Expedition Leader
This project has been progressing at the rate of about 1 day of work per week.

Frame plated for new engine bracket:
7711C7E0-5CAC-47E7-83B8-0F728FFAB8BE-703-000000DBD5515DD2.jpg


New engine bracket installed:
FB976357-B24B-4DE3-A886-F40E63E8A3C2-703-000000DBFEEA5FDA.jpg


200Tdi finally installed (apologies for the blurry photo, this was immediately following 5 hours of wrestling the 600 pound diesel in there, in 100* heat, and photo quality was not at the front of my mind)
CA541965-8C95-4FB9-B331-DB306812A89E-703-000000DC0F2E1014.jpg
 

proper4wd

Expedition Leader
Now that the engine is fitted, I can progress with the supporting systems. The 200Tdi engine oil cooler will be deleted, and the intercooler will be left out for now. The standard Series III radiator will remain, as will the standard manual steering (for now). I will need to shim the steering box out by about 3/4" to provide room for the turbo downpipe.
 

OneTen

Observer
Glad to see you are making some progress with you conversion. I have a Series 3 88 with a 2.5 NA diesel currently installed but have a 200Tdi (Defender version) waiting to get stuffed in. Engine mounts are the same so that part of the install is taken care of. The only real problem I foresee is the steering/exhaust issue so am looking forward to seeing how you make out with the steering box shimming. I am hoping to just keep mine manual steering but have a Scout power steering box on hand if I need to convert.

Brett
 

proper4wd

Expedition Leader
I am prepared to convert to power steering as well. I have the pump and all hoses, and a Defender steering column, at the ready. Would just need a P38 Range Rover steering box (about $100) and to fab up the steering shaft. This is inevitable but I really would like to get the engine conversion sorted and driving and then tackle the power steering as phase 2. I will keep you updated!
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Is that brake or fuel line in the photo of the mount? Whichever it is, if it's copper it should be replaced. Stainless or copper/nickel would be good for your area.
It's not uncommon to find copper used by previous owners on old series rovers.
 

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