1989 V6 - Valve Seal Replacement - Cylinder Head removed.

StillBlue22

Drummer Extraordinaire
its ok, i live in the mountains, work under the table on the property i live on and i have nothing but time. if i had a nice garage i could start a business! yes i'm going over the cost for all the parts right now, writing that down and going over dis-assembly in my service manual.
lash adjusters are pretty cheap so i might just go ahead and replace those, are the valve guides normally something i should worry over as well? just trying to cover all my bases so i can worry about building my bumpers and lifting the the truck a bit.
 

Jay Ayala

Explorer
Valve guides??? I've never attempted to do anything about them. I wouldn't know.


1989 Dodge Raider 3.0L
1997 Mitsubishi Montero 3.5L
 

JohnnyBfromPeoria

I'm Getting Around To It
Jay, thank you for the loan of this tool. We just completed a bench (head off, on a bench, that is) valve stem seal replacement on an 8-valve 2.6l cylinder head that we pulled off a junk engine from inventory. The janky seals on it were weird looking and half of them were damaged from age. The new ones are the metal encased Viton seals that seem to come with every valve cover gasket set I ordered in the past but never knew how to replace. The tool made it simple. Just don't be afraid to ********** 'em. When reinstalling the springs/retainers/keepers, it may be helpful (again, on a bench) to stuff a wad of paper towels under the valve you are working on to keep the stem as high as possible.

I soaked the new stem seals in quality motor oil for days until we rounded up the wagons and decided to attempt this. Both Jorge and I did some, just so we could get the feel for it; of course HoseB just watched and asked questions like "What are valves for?"

This head will be installed on Jorge's '85 Montero ($400) that smokes like a Kansas City BBQ challenge (after the mighty 2.6 warms up and idles for a few minutes...hey, no mosquitoes). We're going to try grinding off some of the old head bolts instead of buying new ones, plus I have a tap for the block threads that I've always used when replacing a head, not to mention the acetone and loads of cleaning I am trying to get these guys to accept as routine for this job. We have a regular Fel-Pro head gasket instead of a turbo one, but it has been debated that the non-turbo gasket may be more forgiving to irregular surface sealing. I won't try to debate that; it's what we have here at the 14th St Corral.

Anyway, thanks again, Jay. We're probably going to use this tool a couple of more times on some 3.0 V-6's, then send it back...or order you a new one!

John B.
 
A note of CAUTION:
with this procedure when using the mallet to strike a spring under tension, be absolutely sure and certain your teeth /face is not inline with the potential rebound of the mallet/hammer.
it has happened. its painful and expensive...and you will get blood on your work.
 

coffeegoat

Adventurer
Good luck using the lisle tool to reinstall valve spring keepers, I've had great luck using it for removal, terrible luck for the reinstall. I gave up and build a 2 dollar tool made it of some pvc pipe fittings and a quick clamp, it worked far better with the heads off. Pic s are in my build thread.
 

normal_dave

waytoomuchwritinginposts.
These Lisle valve tool stories sound like miniature horror stories...I can't figure out what I did wrong while using the Lisle tool?

To me, after ~ 30 years turning wrenches as a hobby, it has to be the single greatest invention for valve work known to mankind. I had decided to find out who designed the tool, and send a thank you note, but I got over it...

The hardest part was fishing the locks out of the magnetic hole. Now I used a hand held sledge, so a single smart shot inline with the centerline of the valve stem, worked like a charm. I did 24 valves with the engine in the car. It should be a cinch when sitting on the workbench. Re-assembly was easier than disassembly to me. Obviously, YMMV.
 

coffeegoat

Adventurer
I have a suspicion that it really isn't the tool's fault, rather poor manufacturing. For example, with my tool, I got the inserter stuck in the tool (had to heat up the handle to get it back out), and broke the ring magnet, this isn't normal. I wouldn't be surprised if the people that have good luck just happened to get tools that were on spec, and the ones that had bad luck were the ones out of spec.
 

jaccox23

Adventurer
I also used this tool with the heads still on and only had trouble with the rear valves next to the brake booster. as for the reassembly i figured out you gotta hit it about twice as hard to get it to work and make sure you're dead in line and not crooked. But like all things taking it apart is the easy part... putting it back together is the real nightmare most of the time lol
 

birdiecat

New member
I hate to give you the bad news but you the springs on up side down. The tight side of the coil always goes towards the cylinder head. My information comes from 26 years of being a automotive machinest
 

Forum statistics

Threads
189,807
Messages
2,921,111
Members
232,931
Latest member
Northandfree

Members online

Top