The time has come to pass my 1991 Range Rover Classic on to a new owner. I have had a great time with this truck, lots of memorable trips, and it has never let me down. We have camped in hot deserts, snowy mountains, at the beach, and in the forest. We have taken it to Baja twice, as well as many trips exploring Northern California. The first Baja trip was three people for around 12 days, all of us sleeping in the Tepui roof top tent, and the second Baja trip was four people for 16 days, two up in the Tepui and two sleeping in the attached Annex. I will miss this truck like crazy...
On to the details!
I want to sell the Rover as a turn-key expedition vehicle with refrigerator, fuel cans, water jugs, Tepui tent, Trasharoo, Hi-Lift, winch, etc... If there is somebody out there that would really like to buy the truck but doesn't want or need one or more of these items, I would be willing to work with them on price. I am also open to interesting trades.
THE BODY: Well, its a bit smashed. If you are looking for a vehicle that your mother will like riding in, perhaps a vehicle that will give everyone around you the impression that you are a financially responsible middle management type on the road to success, you need a BMW 3 series. If, however, you want a vehicle that will make your mother shake her head and wonder where she went wrong; a vehicle that will give everyone around you the impression that you enjoy bare knuckle boxing with grizzly bears, look no further.
1991 Land Rover Range Rover Classic, Ardennes Green.
Original 3.9 liter V8
107,xxx miles
THE SUSPENSION
Safari Gard JEK Stage 3 suspension system
Safari Gard 3-Link front suspension
Fox Racing 2.0 Reservoir adjustable dampers with the biggest available reservoirs, 11" I think. I just had the rears rebuilt with all of the upgrades (Viton O-rings, hi-temp "racing" fluid, new adjusters, new braided reservoir lines) and had them re-valved to better handle the extra weight of the expedition gear.
Safari Gard poly bump stops
Safari Gard rear shock towers
Safari Gard diff guards front and rear
Safari Gard crossmember (much beefier, and required for the front 3-link)
Safari Gard stage-3 4130 chrome-moly swing arms with CNC's ends
Safari Gard front and rear CV driveshafts. Absolutely zero driveline vibration at any speed.
Wheel spacers, I believe 1.5” front and 2” rear
The above suspension setup was just shy of $5,000 without installation.
I wore the previous set of Goodyear MT/Rs all the way down, and there was never a hint of cupping or any kind of odd wear patterns. The current set of MT/R Kevlars have about 10k on them, and they look great.
This thing has a silly amount of flex, and is capable of covering rough desert at a completely indecent pace. My mother approves, but yours would not. And yet it goes down the highway at 70mph no problem, feels secure and happy. It is amazing what proper front end geometry and nice dampers can do for a truck. Also I think it is worth pointing out that the suspension does not click, knock, clunk, groan, or make any unbecoming old man type noises. I have driven so many trucks that make so many odd noises. Doing a U-turn in my Chevy sounds like a room full of arthritic octogenarians playing twister.
INTERIOR
12VoltGuy dual battery setup with the optional 200 amp relay http://www.12voltguy.com/DUAL-BATTERY-KIT.html
100 amp relay on the output of the "house" battery, so you can kill all systems running off of house battery when you are not using it.
I built a fold down panel above the cargo area that holds both amplifiers and the Painless Wiring fuse panel that runs various "house" draws (fridge, stereo, rock lights, etc.)
Two VDO volt gauges in the dash, one for each battery.
VDO oil temp gauge
VDO oil pressure gauge
Autometer transmission temp gauge on center console.
The backlighting in all of the dash mounted gauges is color matched to the instrument cluster.
LED dome light
Red LED map lights at each seat, each with its own toggle switch. Very useful on road trips for night navigation.
Two LED lights on the rear hatch, a small one for regular tasks like making spam and Dorito sandwiches, and a super bright one for doing open heart surgery.
Bi-Amped stereo system, using a bunch of car stereo stuff I had laying around, and a pair of very high-end Focal coaxials. I would definitely be interested in keeping the Focals and maybe the Nakamichi tape deck.
All of the leather is intact and in fairly good condition. Recently I did a full Lexol cleaning and conditioning.
All of the seat foam is great, no sags or dead spots.
Genuine Land Rover wool seat covers on the front seats.
Both front power seats work.
No carpet or headliner, just weather mats.
New Driver's door window regulator.
Recently pulled all of the door panels to clean and lube all of the window regulators.
Heater and AC working great. Brand new AC compressor and receiver/dryer, new O-rings, re-oiled and charged with fresh R-12
Heated windshield works, in spite of a few cracks in the upper left corner.
Everything works. Cruise control, power windows, adjustable intermittent wipers, power locks, horn, etc.
All of the toggle switches in the interior are ridiculously over built all metal switches from McMaster Carr, rated to handle something like 40 amps. I did this because I can't stand cheap wobbly switches, I want that nice crisp CLACK when you flip the switch. I want my switches to make me feel like I am powering on an army of killer robot weasels.
EXTERIOR
Bosch E-Code headlights with 55w/100w bulbs.
LED rock lights, very low draw and they kick ***.
Home built front bumper. Don't worry, the high-pressure headlight washers are intact and operational! Fun fact: this thing holds something like 20 liters of windshield washer fluid, so you can do a 16 day Baja trip, and wash the windshield and headlights every time you even SEE a mosquito, and you will still come home with half a tank.
Smittybilt XRC-8 winch with two controllers (bought a new backup, just in case).
Sierra Expeditions military battery terminals.
Comes with a full set of spare doors, which I purchased to make half doors, but never got around to it.
Custom made high clearance, high flow exhaust. Much simpler than stock exhaust. Passes CA smog. Sounds like it ate three crocodiles for breakfast.
Home built rear bumper that carries the spare, two 20 liter jerry cans, the Hi-Lift, and the Trasharoo. Hinge held in double shear, with a correct rest pad/tension latch setup. Zero rattles.
Home built roof rack using Conn-Ferr Bulldog clamps http://www.diamondrax.com/bulldog-heavy-duty-rain-gutter-clamps.html
Home built snorkel. Comes with two heads, the normal snorkel head, and the cyclonic pre-filter that I bought for Baja trips. You can see both in the pictures. NOTE: I built this and installed it with the hope that it would help with dust, I have never had this truck in water deeper than the hubs. Just thought I would point this out since about every third person I meet asks how often I take it under water. Just because it has a snorkel doesn’t mean I have tried to drive it through a nine foot deep river.
Bumpers and roof rack painted to match the original metallic grey on the wheels, because three spoke alloy wheels rock my socks.
Brake fluid flushed @ 104k
New spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, and plug wires @ 104k
New OEM O2 sensors @ 104k
New accessory drive belts @ 104k
New OEM PCV hoses and breather filter @ 104k
New front wheel bearings @ 103k
New trailing arm bushings @ 103k
New front rotors and Akebono brake pads @ 103k
Front and rear diff, transmission, swivel pin housing, and transfer case fluids renewed @101k
New Goodyear MT/R Kevlars @97k
Fuel pump @ 91k
Transfer case re-sealed and output bearing replaced @ 91k
Motor mounts @ 91k
Alternator @ 91k
THE BAD STUFF
The body, if you consider it a negative. If someone wanted to repair the cosmetic damage, all of the body panels on a Range Rover Classic are held on with screws. So in one solid weekend of work, you could unscrew the roof skin, front fender, rear quarter, and doors (a full set of spare doors comes with the truck) and replace them. I never did this because I sort of fell in love with the way it looks all banged up.
It leaks a little oil, and I do mean a little, from the oil pan. This truck is remarkably clean and dry under the hood and underneath.
The Nakamichi tape deck doesn't really fit in the dash, it is too deep. This can be fixed by giving me the Nakamichi and buying something that fits.
The windshield has several cracks in the top left corner. It has been like this for a few years, the cracks cannot grow because they go from the left edge to the top edge.
No carpet or headliner.
Wood trim on the dash is not so great.
If I think of more I will add them...
THE SALE
I would not hesitate to take this truck anywhere.
If someone far away buys it I would love to deliver it.
I am open to interesting trades.
Asking $6,500 obo. To put it another way, you pay for the suspension, Tepui tent, and fridge, and you get a free bad *** Rover to carry it home with. If you are looking to get into overland travel, this is a very smart way to start. Maybe your mom won't be that disappointed in your financial responsibility after all...
On to the details!
I want to sell the Rover as a turn-key expedition vehicle with refrigerator, fuel cans, water jugs, Tepui tent, Trasharoo, Hi-Lift, winch, etc... If there is somebody out there that would really like to buy the truck but doesn't want or need one or more of these items, I would be willing to work with them on price. I am also open to interesting trades.
THE BODY: Well, its a bit smashed. If you are looking for a vehicle that your mother will like riding in, perhaps a vehicle that will give everyone around you the impression that you are a financially responsible middle management type on the road to success, you need a BMW 3 series. If, however, you want a vehicle that will make your mother shake her head and wonder where she went wrong; a vehicle that will give everyone around you the impression that you enjoy bare knuckle boxing with grizzly bears, look no further.
1991 Land Rover Range Rover Classic, Ardennes Green.
Original 3.9 liter V8
107,xxx miles
THE SUSPENSION
Safari Gard JEK Stage 3 suspension system
Safari Gard 3-Link front suspension
Fox Racing 2.0 Reservoir adjustable dampers with the biggest available reservoirs, 11" I think. I just had the rears rebuilt with all of the upgrades (Viton O-rings, hi-temp "racing" fluid, new adjusters, new braided reservoir lines) and had them re-valved to better handle the extra weight of the expedition gear.
Safari Gard poly bump stops
Safari Gard rear shock towers
Safari Gard diff guards front and rear
Safari Gard crossmember (much beefier, and required for the front 3-link)
Safari Gard stage-3 4130 chrome-moly swing arms with CNC's ends
Safari Gard front and rear CV driveshafts. Absolutely zero driveline vibration at any speed.
Wheel spacers, I believe 1.5” front and 2” rear
The above suspension setup was just shy of $5,000 without installation.
I wore the previous set of Goodyear MT/Rs all the way down, and there was never a hint of cupping or any kind of odd wear patterns. The current set of MT/R Kevlars have about 10k on them, and they look great.
This thing has a silly amount of flex, and is capable of covering rough desert at a completely indecent pace. My mother approves, but yours would not. And yet it goes down the highway at 70mph no problem, feels secure and happy. It is amazing what proper front end geometry and nice dampers can do for a truck. Also I think it is worth pointing out that the suspension does not click, knock, clunk, groan, or make any unbecoming old man type noises. I have driven so many trucks that make so many odd noises. Doing a U-turn in my Chevy sounds like a room full of arthritic octogenarians playing twister.
INTERIOR
12VoltGuy dual battery setup with the optional 200 amp relay http://www.12voltguy.com/DUAL-BATTERY-KIT.html
100 amp relay on the output of the "house" battery, so you can kill all systems running off of house battery when you are not using it.
I built a fold down panel above the cargo area that holds both amplifiers and the Painless Wiring fuse panel that runs various "house" draws (fridge, stereo, rock lights, etc.)
Two VDO volt gauges in the dash, one for each battery.
VDO oil temp gauge
VDO oil pressure gauge
Autometer transmission temp gauge on center console.
The backlighting in all of the dash mounted gauges is color matched to the instrument cluster.
LED dome light
Red LED map lights at each seat, each with its own toggle switch. Very useful on road trips for night navigation.
Two LED lights on the rear hatch, a small one for regular tasks like making spam and Dorito sandwiches, and a super bright one for doing open heart surgery.
Bi-Amped stereo system, using a bunch of car stereo stuff I had laying around, and a pair of very high-end Focal coaxials. I would definitely be interested in keeping the Focals and maybe the Nakamichi tape deck.
All of the leather is intact and in fairly good condition. Recently I did a full Lexol cleaning and conditioning.
All of the seat foam is great, no sags or dead spots.
Genuine Land Rover wool seat covers on the front seats.
Both front power seats work.
No carpet or headliner, just weather mats.
New Driver's door window regulator.
Recently pulled all of the door panels to clean and lube all of the window regulators.
Heater and AC working great. Brand new AC compressor and receiver/dryer, new O-rings, re-oiled and charged with fresh R-12
Heated windshield works, in spite of a few cracks in the upper left corner.
Everything works. Cruise control, power windows, adjustable intermittent wipers, power locks, horn, etc.
All of the toggle switches in the interior are ridiculously over built all metal switches from McMaster Carr, rated to handle something like 40 amps. I did this because I can't stand cheap wobbly switches, I want that nice crisp CLACK when you flip the switch. I want my switches to make me feel like I am powering on an army of killer robot weasels.
EXTERIOR
Bosch E-Code headlights with 55w/100w bulbs.
LED rock lights, very low draw and they kick ***.
Home built front bumper. Don't worry, the high-pressure headlight washers are intact and operational! Fun fact: this thing holds something like 20 liters of windshield washer fluid, so you can do a 16 day Baja trip, and wash the windshield and headlights every time you even SEE a mosquito, and you will still come home with half a tank.
Smittybilt XRC-8 winch with two controllers (bought a new backup, just in case).
Sierra Expeditions military battery terminals.
Comes with a full set of spare doors, which I purchased to make half doors, but never got around to it.
Custom made high clearance, high flow exhaust. Much simpler than stock exhaust. Passes CA smog. Sounds like it ate three crocodiles for breakfast.
Home built rear bumper that carries the spare, two 20 liter jerry cans, the Hi-Lift, and the Trasharoo. Hinge held in double shear, with a correct rest pad/tension latch setup. Zero rattles.
Home built roof rack using Conn-Ferr Bulldog clamps http://www.diamondrax.com/bulldog-heavy-duty-rain-gutter-clamps.html
Home built snorkel. Comes with two heads, the normal snorkel head, and the cyclonic pre-filter that I bought for Baja trips. You can see both in the pictures. NOTE: I built this and installed it with the hope that it would help with dust, I have never had this truck in water deeper than the hubs. Just thought I would point this out since about every third person I meet asks how often I take it under water. Just because it has a snorkel doesn’t mean I have tried to drive it through a nine foot deep river.
Bumpers and roof rack painted to match the original metallic grey on the wheels, because three spoke alloy wheels rock my socks.
Brake fluid flushed @ 104k
New spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, and plug wires @ 104k
New OEM O2 sensors @ 104k
New accessory drive belts @ 104k
New OEM PCV hoses and breather filter @ 104k
New front wheel bearings @ 103k
New trailing arm bushings @ 103k
New front rotors and Akebono brake pads @ 103k
Front and rear diff, transmission, swivel pin housing, and transfer case fluids renewed @101k
New Goodyear MT/R Kevlars @97k
Fuel pump @ 91k
Transfer case re-sealed and output bearing replaced @ 91k
Motor mounts @ 91k
Alternator @ 91k
THE BAD STUFF
The body, if you consider it a negative. If someone wanted to repair the cosmetic damage, all of the body panels on a Range Rover Classic are held on with screws. So in one solid weekend of work, you could unscrew the roof skin, front fender, rear quarter, and doors (a full set of spare doors comes with the truck) and replace them. I never did this because I sort of fell in love with the way it looks all banged up.
It leaks a little oil, and I do mean a little, from the oil pan. This truck is remarkably clean and dry under the hood and underneath.
The Nakamichi tape deck doesn't really fit in the dash, it is too deep. This can be fixed by giving me the Nakamichi and buying something that fits.
The windshield has several cracks in the top left corner. It has been like this for a few years, the cracks cannot grow because they go from the left edge to the top edge.
No carpet or headliner.
Wood trim on the dash is not so great.
If I think of more I will add them...
THE SALE
I would not hesitate to take this truck anywhere.
If someone far away buys it I would love to deliver it.
I am open to interesting trades.
Asking $6,500 obo. To put it another way, you pay for the suspension, Tepui tent, and fridge, and you get a free bad *** Rover to carry it home with. If you are looking to get into overland travel, this is a very smart way to start. Maybe your mom won't be that disappointed in your financial responsibility after all...
