1998 Montero suspension parts

[newworld2004]

with 171k on clock still running on original shock and suspension, lot's of squeaky while driving on pavement , in additions to shock replacement, what other parts do you think I may need?

Thx for your time.

 

[newworld2004]

Thank you , it is hard to find all part as kit?

 

[newworld2004]

Thank you Sir!

 

[brad2274]

I would go premium if you plan to go hard on it, i went with a cheap kit and not all components were greasable, plus ones that did were so poor fitting that you could not access the grease fitting without unbolting ball joint or drilling out arm. Lasted less than 6 months, just a few trails and 10k miles nothing too crazy

 

[newworld2004]

Heh, I'm on 30k miles so far on the Detroit axle stuff.. no slop at all.

is that same parts as on Amazon?

 

[plh]

Should definitely upgrade to the chro-moly ball joints.

 

[plh]

http://www.adventuredrivendesign.com/tech/

great list! i had not seen that before, thanks for sharing.

 

[Toasty]

Should definitely upgrade to the chro-moly ball joints.

The chromo stuff is probably the Okayest of the aftermarket options, Turbo got 5k miles out of them on his Gen 2 (35's mind you) with just a few trails. So they might hang around a bit on little tires, if you plan on meaty tires or lots of wheeling the Mitsu joints are tough! I've got almost 10k on mine with 35's, just as tight as day 1 and they've been wheeled HARD. My truck's only job is to go wheeling.

 

[Salonika]

Anyone have experience with Moog? Mine have been great for daily utility use and occasional off-road.....

 

[plh]

Japanese MOOG are great, but hard to find these days

 

[davidgreams]

I’ve got an 87 Dodge Raider. Exact same thing just re-badged by Dodge. I love mine. They are bigger than Samurai. Parts a lil hard to find but like many have said there are lots of forums for swaps and what'll work from this or that.

The engine is very underpowered. Vacuum up the ass and like 107hp stock or something like that. For what I want it for its perfect though. Being that they are nearing a collector car status I’m almost afraid to go beat mine up. 1 owner, never wrecked, no rust anything ever modified. I’d like to put a Toyota swap with axles and link it all up.

 

[Swank Force One]

I used the DLZ stuff on my truck. Outer tie rods lasted about 3k miles. Balljoints less than 2k. Replaced with OEM everywhere, they are not expensive.

2/10 would not bang.

 

[Swank Force One]

Everything that has a grease fitting gets greased when installed, and every oil change thereafter.

My truck is my DD, never saw offroad of any kind after install, just hadn't had time. I do have big tires and there's some potholes here that might better be called sinkholes. It's all just anecdotes, we never really know who is making these cheap parts, so who knows.

I ran (never again) Proforged outer tie rods on my Miata, they're completely trashed after 10k miles. That's a small tire vehicle that also doesn't get beat offroad much.

 

[plh]

I ran (never again) Proforged outer tie rods on my Miata, they're completely trashed after 10k miles. That's a small tire vehicle that also doesn't get beat offroad much.

Interesting comment on Proforged...

 

[Swank Force One]

It is, though i suppose not the first comment of its kind about them in this thread.

Honestly in general, i've had absolutely horrid luck with non-oem parts in the last 5 years. If it's not a performance part, i use OEM now. And even then i've had pretty awful luck with oem Mitsubishi parts these days. Poor guy i sold my gen3 to had to re-do essentially all the work i did in the last 6 months i did to the truck only 20k miles later. And that was a big batch of expensive oem parts. Quality seems to be going down across the board.

OEM balljoints are about $50 each, and as we've seen on these trucks, go 100-200k miles. Seems like value to me.