2001 R50 Pathfinder Build-up.

[bushnut]

with a good set of tires you'll be impressed what the R50 will do even in stock form. as for overlanding, how well you've designed and built the interior greatly affects how enjoyable the adventure is. When everything has a place it allows you to minimize the time spent setting up camp and increase time sitting back and enjoying yourself. You are only a poseur if your idea of an adventure is camping in the next towns Walmart parking lot.:REOutCampFire03:

 

[Weekender41]

with a good set of tires you'll be impressed what the R50 will do even in stock form. as for overlanding, how well you've designed and built the interior greatly affects how enjoyable the adventure is. When everything has a place it allows you to minimize the time spent setting up camp and increase time sitting back and enjoying yourself. You are only a poseur if your idea of an adventure is camping in the next towns Walmart parking lot.:REOutCampFire03:

Haha what?! that was totally my next plan haha just kidding. Anyways yeah because I go on trails by myself up in the mountains I tend to stay away from the very technical and difficult looking stuff. Well just the other week I went out with my dad (big tow hooks and lots of power just in case) and I hit all of those area I thought looked really bad and wouldn't you know it, the pathfinder went through and I don't even think a tire slipped unless it was off the ground (hard to tell if that happens because I don't think I have ever had that happen before) Anyways once all the gear in the back is nice and secured up I think she will be able to handle loads more than I though so Ill have to find a place to test it out.

Oh I did manage to get it almost stuck once, this wasn't on trails but actually a dirt road to my house. It had just stopped snowing its last bit so we had a little over a foot it seemed, anyways I was driving and everything was going good... Next thing I know my pathy is dang near sideways and im headed towards the ditch. Have no idea how it happened as my wheel was still completely straight. Anyways I go into the ditch (grill guard saved the bumper probably) and Im like ****** JUST HAPPENED??. Haha so I try getting out in 2wd, It went a little farther forward and then I got a running reverse start on it and the back tires made it up on the road (still slick road) and would not pull the front end out. Gravity and physics I Guess. Put it in 4hi and drove slightly forward then tried backing out and it almost made it. One more slow try and snaking the wheel slightly and boom it pops out.

I have put the pathy in 4LO just to check it out but im not too sure when I would need it. 4HI works pretty stinking good as is. haha

Have a nice week everyone. Drawer pictures follow.

 

[Weekender41]

Okay so this thread was randomly deleted, the great work from Dendy Jerret brought it back so many thanks there. Now it is showing the photos as invalid link.. Is this happening to anyone else?

 

[Allof75]

Not seeing the pictures, but based on others' comments it must be good haha

 

[Weekender41]

Ok so I gotta thank Chazz Layne as well on the restoration. The admin are having some "advanced eyeballs" looking into the photo thing. Will continue to work on this drawer setup and will post the photos as they get updated. Stay tuned. I may just make a drawer-build forum haha.

 

[Weekender41]

"ranges however, most of our custom
designed & fabricated bumpers tend to average anywhere from $1900-$2600
including powder-coating & complete installation"

hah that just came from Armorology. Holy sheeeeet! okay so if anyone knows of a place that makes off-road bumpers for a winch in the mountain-west region please let me know. I am just not okay with that price tag (I may have to resign to getting a tube bumper ....)

 

[duckhunter71]

"ranges however, most of our custom
designed & fabricated bumpers tend to average anywhere from $1900-$2600
including powder-coating & complete installation"

hah that just came from Armorology. Holy sheeeeet! okay so if anyone knows of a place that makes off-road bumpers for a winch in the mountain-west region please let me know. I am just not okay with that price tag (I may have to resign to getting a tube bumper ....)

Are you not a fan of ARBs? They make a Safari Bar for the R50s. I'm very pleased with mine, might check it out!

PS - I've seen the chrome hoop painted to match the bumper (which normally comes in powdercoat gray) and it looked pretty good if the chrome isn't something you're interested in!
http://store.arbusa.com/ARB-Sahara-Bar-Nissan-Pathfinder-2000-02-3938020-P3347.aspx

 

[Weekender41]

Are you not a fan of ARBs? They make a Safari Bar for the R50s. I'm very pleased with mine, ...slice...]

haha yeah I have seen the ARB's. Do like how complete they are, they have excellent ratings and ARB has yet to let my truck down so it's definitely an option... wish they made the deluxe version for it but anyways when all said and done im looking at like 1400 for that one right? another paycheck and im into Armorology's range. I have heard a couple guys beefing up where the winch sits on these bumpers but im not sure if that is normal. A couple users here including txfactor has one. It would be interesting to hear about his reviews of it. Also KMA, which is now TAG (tactical armor group) has a bumper for it, people say the wait time is 3 1/2 months but it is around 1000 with all the options I want. I have heard many mixed reviews there but they seem well built. Only downside for me is it doesn't look any more slim than the stock bumper (no better approach angle) then again I have only scraped my front with the grill guard on and that makes it as low as a car. With the lift and bumper it should sit pretty well.

Pictures here first of alexrex (sp) on youtube as I believe it may be the same person as txfactor (we will stay politically correct with the may be) Anyways this is the ARB without front hoop. I would be using the synthetic line aluminum fairlead and have the single hoop.


If the owner of this vehicle is not okay with me using these images please let me know.

Here is the TAG bumper. The top photo has a shadow casting below the bumper so it looks a lot bigger than it is. This is the old KMA but it is still Kyle working out of Georgia. Solid built, low price, low hanging and poor customer service for wait times but im in no rush. I would get the same basic design but without the pusher rubber things. Probably have lights closer to the winch as well.


Any input or "IMO"'s about these two. Im doing the complete suspension package first but these two are what im looking at currently unless I can talk myself into the Armorology.

 

[Weekender41]

In Other News

HAHA! well either Alaska moved to Wyoming or I moved to Alaska....hmmmm :Wow1:








Safe Travels everyone!

 

[duckhunter71]

I've got synthetic line on my winch and my Hawse fairlead will not work with the ARB as the way it mounts causes the fairlead opening to be below the opening in the bumper. I've ordered a roller fairlead with polyeurethane rollers to remedy the issue. The TAG one isn't bad looking, definitely a little bulkier than the ARB, but not bad at all.

 

[XPLORx4]

You can get an ARB-compatible offset hawse fairlead here:
http://www.okoffroad.com/stuff-fairlead.htm

 

[Weekender41]

You can get an ARB-compatible offset hawse fairlead here:...

Ha and this is why I do like seeing that you commented! Thank you!

And duckhunter71, I try and stay away from those, I was winching the old pickup one and I guess the pressure was a little much or maybe the roller I got was crap but the angle was weird, anyways it snapped the bottom poly roller off and so the line was pressing into the body of the fairlead which caused some major issues with the syn line. As long as the pull weight stays within specs you should be fine tho. good luck!

Thanks for both of your inputs though. All you guys that has responded to this thread have been a big help!

Cheers!

 

[Weekender41]

Almost There

Just pulled the trigger on the 2" AC lift. have new struts and boots to put in along with it.:sombrero: Looking into the Bilstein shocks, the 5150 series has been discontinued but the 7100 series can be made nearly identical with a little bit better stats but will remain same valving. Only question is what travel length should I look into. 10" or 12". 10" would probably suffice but for a little more performance on the mountain trails I could get the 12" and have normal road performance from what I have heard..... choices. Ill keep researching and trying to find the set-up that is right for me. Still waiting on that center skid.:coffeedrink:

OH! I did order to upgrade all my taillights to led! im excited. And if anyone can direct me to the LED's that will fit the map, passenger and cargo lights? the A12V8W-E on the map light areas are a pain finding led's with same connection style and the 12V10W for the passenger and cargo area are proving to be as equally scarce. The front turn signal lights may be getting upgraded to led's as well to tie it all together and draw less amps. The headlights are incredibly bright and pure white so the rest of the lights getting refreshed will be nice. Plus most of the tail light upgrades were free so why not?

 

[duckhunter71]

And duckhunter71, I try and stay away from those, I was winching the old pickup one and I guess the pressure was a little much or maybe the roller I got was crap but the angle was weird, anyways it snapped the bottom poly roller off and so the line was pressing into the body of the fairlead which caused some major issues with the syn line. As long as the pull weight stays within specs you should be fine tho. good luck!

I wish I had known that before I ordered! I also wish I had known about the ARB-compatible Hawse fairleads.. Oh well!

 

[Weekender41]

I wish I had known that before I ordered! I also wish I had known about the ARB-compatible Hawse fairleads.. Oh well!

Duckhunter71, the roller fairleads for synthetic line's are actually better on the line. They have come along way since I was 16 and pulling a much too large truck with one. Just keep an eye on the rollers to make sure they are smooth. They are great because you can file down any impurities on the rollers with a file. I have both now at a shop close to me so once the bumper goes in. That way I can see which will float my boat better lol.

Center skid is on. I like how it's black. The photos show grey and I like matching and symmetry . Anyways Allof75 mentioned pieces to remove from the cross- bar. These are those.


Anyways the rear bolt I had to trim like Allof75. I took my dye set and cleaned the threads once it was cut off then took the bench grinder and added the angles at the end of the bolt and sent the dye through it again to clean it all up. I found FOURTREKS has rock slider washers that I am going to get so the chance of shearing all those off is practically slim. Once those get on Ill have to recut the bolts and clean them up again but I don't mind. Im trying to be thorough with this because the last thing I want is to shear a bolt off a 66 lbs plate and have that thing flapping. Haha anyways here is what the bolts look like now



And here is the whole set that I have. Its easy to see how simple the bolts would be to shear off under the pressure of a rock.



And I certainly hope the ARB front bumper allows me to keep my front skid. That Is my largest worry right now ... :/

Anyways I am still looking into the 7100 series or the 5165 series bilstein shocks. If anyone has experience with either (on any vehicle) please let me know.

Cheers everyone.