....I need to read up on wether the system (AHC) is considered an asset or a liability by those people who are overlanding their LXs... !
As mentioned above, you can spend quite some time on Mud reading through various topics, however the basic consensus for those building up their 100's is ditch it. At least for the US userbase, there are very few guys who have attempted to keep the system once real modification starts. From those few, I have gathered that they key is keeping the neutral pressure of the system at or close to factory specs. I believe the cause of failure of most systems is the fact the even most dealers don't properly maintain the systems. After only a few years, they guys that have actually checked have found the pressure high as the factory springs/TBs have softened. So, first order of business if you plan to keep the system is the buy a cable and get ahold of a dubious copy of the Toyota TIS software to check that pressure. Front is easy to correct and compensate for weight with a TB adjustment. The rear is actually were the problem lies. New AHC springs are technically needed to bring the rear back to spec. Some have used a spacer to preload with a little extra height with positive results...but that is just to correct at stock weight. Once bumper/drawers/armor/etc is added the weight will once again be out of spec. Some are then switching to stock LC non AHC springs or 80 series springs which are supposedly softer. However I have not seen anyone actually test neutral pressure with a fully armored/resprung vehicle. Just that it works to go to all height positions and the ride is okay, if a little less refined than stock.
So all of that is just to say that it is possible to run AHC at overlanding weight, but be prepared to invest in time and equipment to set things up correctly. And this all assumes you have a fully functioning AHC system to begin with. I would say that most built trucks on Mud have been higher mileage examples in the past, where the AHC was possibly suspect to begin with...so rather than troubleshoot possibly spending thousands on new components and then have to deal with the weight issue, folks just drop $1000 on an OME lift and call it good. No fuss, no worries...no chance of being dropped to the bumpstops in the middle of nowhere. Also, some question whether the system is capable of correctly dampening the extra weight even if pressures are set correctly. I never saw a definitive answer to that...
I'm still personally rather torn, as I just got a higher mileage LX, but the AHC actually still works pretty decently. I like the idea of being able to cruise the highway without a 2" lift, and even get it lower for easy entry/exit. The ride currently is so buttery smooth, I hate the thought of making it rougher with a lift. Of course I only have an XJ with 4.5" short arm lift to compare to, but still... So I think my current plans are to make an initial attempt at keeping correct neutral pressure, flushing the system and run it...I think I can do all of that for <$100 When the accumulators/globes no longer keep up, then I will have to make the real decisions. Only ~$800 for a Ironman lift + BIOR diff drop, versus at least twice that to replace globes...
Anyway, hope this info helps a little. If nothing else, maybe it can give you some search term ideas to use on Mud...