2005 118" Sprinter Conversion for Alexander

mhiscox

Expedition Leader
It is "destructive strength" which means that the bond will hold and the materials will fail before the adhesive bond breaks...I find that to be true.
I find that to be true, too. Do not use it anywhere you might ever want to undo the attachment. Not only do you have to destroy the surface material, but the adhesive residue is one of the toughest to remove that I've ever run into, with none of the usual solvents having much effect.

Interestingly, though, given its tenacity, I have, possibly caused by high temperatures in the cabin, had the PSA let go of the veneer in a half-dozen isolated areas. It's an easy enough repair when an edge has let go, but it would be a substantial problem when the detached area is surrounded by solidly-attached material.
 

PaulJensen

Custom Builder
# 18

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Here's what the cork lid looks like...

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(above) Since I took two days off to do that show in Portland, I'm working Saturday...I'm also into a cold...But the hope is to get the drop down tables close to done today...This is what the driver side rear door looks like...The masking tape represents the wood backing...

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(above) 1/2" baltic birch plywood core, white fiberglass panel on the outside, stainless steel on the inside...Those are magnets set into the holes...

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(above) The magnets are to hold the table up when not in use...

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(above) Curb side door...The magnets are placed over the FRP door screws...

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(above) Found them on Amazon for about $6...

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(above) Contact cement holds everything together...

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(above) This is the SS mill finish...

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(above) I go over it with 180 grit on a 6" random orbital sander to start...
 

PaulJensen

Custom Builder
# 18

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(above) Curb side door drop down table 99% installed...Still need to white paint the edge and get the right screws to mount it...

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(above) Simple...

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(above) The magnets align with the screws...The screws are washered out for optimum magnet contact...Nylon bimini top hooks hold the cords...

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(above) Driver side door drop down table...The cabinet ply on the inside looks as wild as I hoped for...It's coming together...

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(above) Tailgate party, anyone???...

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(above) This redefines rear door tables...

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(above) Jiveass, is that what you were looking for...???...

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(above) The side door drop down table, still needing edging...Or not...

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(above) these tables are so useful next to the sink and faucet...Where the single burner butane does most of the cooking...

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(above) Figured this one out fast...
 

PaulJensen

Custom Builder
# 18

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(above) Behind the driver seat...

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(above) This is how I did the side door table too...T-nuts go where the screws come up from the brackets...

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(above) Countersink the T-nuts at least flush...

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(above) Rough plywood tabletop mounted to drop down hardware...I'm thinking of 1/4" walnut over the top, maybe oak...???...

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(above) Table down...

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(above) Table up...I added a 1" hole in the bottom of the top for an optional leg...It sits three cozily...

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(above) For a 118" WB, it has a lot of horizontal surfaces...Feels luxurious...

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(above) Looking forward...

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(above) And when the rear doors shut...

For feeling sick, I'm glad to get this day done...
 

jiveass

New member
I think where the mahoganut has been working so well for the cabinet pulls, it should also go for the table top. Or maybe the table top will be where the wooden inlaid <Jensen> symbol should go. Though I'd probably prefer something slightly more subtle, but it's your van for now. Who am I to question the artist?

I'm mixed on the edging, but inclined towards not having it. Seems important were one cooking at sea, and I'm not certain this thing will float. Though on the pro side, parking on a grade the edging would be handy to keep things sliding off. However, if there is any scrap cork left for place matting, that should serve.

I noticed the cork topper that appears destined for the driver's side cabinet top. I immediately liked that. And the exposed ply grain is awesome. As are the industry redefining drop tables in the rear door.
 
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southpier

Expedition Leader
going back to post #1 seems there is some, albeit modest, sleeping provision incorporated. will this be carried over to the conversion?


I mean, how else would the owner . . . well, thinking back, there are ways ....
 

jiveass

New member
Everyone is down on not having a bed. There's 2 25"x3" thick foam and inflatable base camp mats waiting for this thing. Why waste space on a bed when you can have multi functional open space? In the morning the bed bungees to the wall. Alternatively, there's sufficient mounting hardware to hang a hammock or even lower a platform from the ceiling, if I wish.

Explain how this configuration is worse than sleeping in a tent?
 

southpier

Expedition Leader
I asked a simple question. I even went back to read the introductory post to see if I had missed something. if you want to poke 'em on the floor, that's your business. don't hit your head on those walmetto drawer pulls. and you can probably have her pee in the sink, no problemo. I just assumed being the self proclaimed "love monkey" these things might be important to your plan. jeebus .....
 

mhiscox

Expedition Leader
Everyone is down on not having a bed. There's 2 25"x3" thick foam and inflatable base camp mats waiting for this thing. Why waste space on a bed when you can have multi functional open space? In the morning the bed bungees to the wall. Alternatively, there's sufficient mounting hardware to hang a hammock or even lower a platform from the ceiling, if I wish. Explain how this configuration is worse than sleeping in a tent?
Nobody's having any problem with your build, Alex. It's smart to have all of that open space, and if you're surfing or cycling or hauling a moto, that's what you need to do. But some of us are older (or just plain old) and were messin' with Paul and his comment about the "49 inches is plenty for two" bed. Check out the number of high end motorhomes that have moved to king beds . . . that's 'cuz for some couples of a certain age--not me, of course--distance becomes your friend.

And as a person with much experience . . . on the vast majority of days in the Northwest, ANY way you choose to sleep in a Sprinter is going to be better than sleeping in a tent. :)
 

PaulJensen

Custom Builder
...ANY way you choose to sleep in a Sprinter is going to be better than sleeping in a tent. :)

By design, this Sprinter falls into the steel tent category, low on bells and whistles, high on multiple functionality...Purposely, the systems inside are kept simple, low in cost to install and maintain...Compromises exist and those who have me design and build interiors that are similar to this know what to expect...There is no unlimited electrical supply...There is no constant on-demand hot water...Forget about a satellite dish, etc...Nor will Murphy's Law come crashing down hard on you&#8230;

The interior design, as I mentioned, is my interpretation of a very easy to live in steel tent...It's a very efficient, low cost way to go...The materials are simple, the craftsmanship level is better than average...My path to this design is rooted in my travels around the globe&#8230;Bigger is not better, simple is better than complicated, and more stuff does not lead to being happier...The happiest people I know are the ones who live simply and this interior design is based upon that philosophy...Sure, have good things, the best you can afford, but keep it simple...I've seen it worldwide and know it to be true...It's not a dirt floor design, nor is it a fur carpet design...It's on the simple side of the middle...

I understand that a van this basic (or this complicated) isn't for everyone, and I also understand that not everyone wants their camper to be just like their home...If you do, there are a plethora of those designs out there to meet your needs...It's all about choice...

A lot of Sprinters that I've seen, use crappy materials and a lot of them...Pack as much stuff in that baby that you can, then more...Fine, if that's what you need, go for it, be happy...It should be obvious by now that I'm stepping back from those designs...Less and better, with more flexibility of the space usage is the way I'm going...

The bed system as Alex mentioned, is a pair of foam pads that are strapped to the wall during the day, then fit on the floor at night...Sleeping bags, yes...In use it takes about three minutes to figure out this isn't a home size bed, then you snuggle in cozy and get some sleep...And there is sill more than enough space to do the Wild Thing...In style...In a one of a kind custom, built with much love, skill and the desire to exceed the needs of the client...

You can joke around about it being just big enough for pre-teens, but the reality is that Pam and I, with a combined age of over 120 years, do just fine on the floor...Every time we put the foam pads back on the wall after a good night's sleep, I'm smiling, know there isn't a bed design out there that would have me sleep any better than on the floor on a 3" thick dual density foam pad, then still have all that floor space open the majority of the time...No regrets at all, just great memories&#8230;Isn't that really what's important&#8230;???...How you get those is up to you&#8230;
 
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