I had a 2006 off road automatic that got totaled in November 2012 in the day i clicked 70k miles. Rear ended by a jerk with no insurance. Never had one service issue with it. We used to load the rear seats with coolers and food and the trunk area with camping gear to the brim for 2-3 night car camping trips in the sierras. Before kids. Wife wasn't down for anything more than primitive forest service campsites. With maybe a pit toilet and fire ring. And day trip excursions into forest roads. At altitudes from 2-10k feet we always got combined trip mileage of 15-19. That includes mostly freeway driving to and from home to campsites and mostly 2wd on forest roads Great rig I'd buy another in a minute. We replaced it with a 3 row seat 4wd 2013 4runner. The X had more power and it was a 7 model year older car ! I'm in the market for a new car and I have a jones for a frontier. The stock tires are uninspiring
2005 and new Xterra owers
- Thread starter Ovis Canis
- Start date
jarmentrout
Observer
I'll try to weigh in here...
I am pushing 50 (really strange to see that in "print"...) and have been buying and driving four wheel drives since I was in high school. Living in Maine we get pretty diverse conditions, from warm weather for a month or so, to fall and then winter snow. And of course there's mud season, which we're in now. I have a place in Northern Maine that I try to get to as often as I can, as well as enjoying exploring New England and eastern Canada.
I have always liked a vehicle that would take me places, keep my stuff clean and dry and allow me to sleep in the back when I want to. I also tow a boat in the summer and a snowmobile trailer in the winter.
I have had two Xterras, the first was a 2006 Off Road, with a manual trans. that I traded at nearly 80k miles for a 2012 Xterra Pro4X, also a manual trans. because I was afraid they'd change the design and screw it up. So I have no experience with the non off-road version. The OR specs come with bigger tires (approx 32”
and slightly better shocks, skid plates. The MTs come with a lower axle gear ratio, 3.69:1.
I like old school, relatively simple stuff (even working on the 47 Willys in the garage this week). But if I were to set out to build an off road wagon to do what I want to do, I'd have a hard time coming up with many changes to the Xterra, with a few exceptions, but I'll get to those. First, let's go through the good stuff, and I'll put some beefs if any, in each section.
Dimensions:
It's relatively short wheelbase for a four door vehicle, for easy maneuvering, short overhang on the front, and pretty good in the back (the stock tow hitch is not so good for this, but an integrated rear bumper/hitch like a Shrockworks fixes this). Breakover angle is pretty good as all the mechanicals are tucked up in the frame. I think it's actually a shorter wheelbase than the JKU if I recall, but the departure angle is worse than the JKU. The roof line and back seats are good, although I have never ridden in the back, I get no complaints from passengers. Interior dimensions are good for me. Not huge like a Suburban, but that would come with a price like longer wheelbase or worse departure angle. If you get a newer one, and don't get the leather seats, then it should come with a front passenger seat that folds forward, allowing you to carry long items. This is also handy if you are sleeping in it. Or if the dog is in the back and likes to look through the windshield. With the rear seats folded, (the rear seat bottom cushions can be removed and left home, bonus) and the front passenger seat back folded forward, it looks simply cavernous inside.
Apparently the JKU cargo space is suppose to be larger on paper. I'd have to see that to believe it, because I use the rear "trunk" in the Xterra for all kinds of stuff and I also use the roof box as well. The stuff I carry in the Xterra every day is amazing, and you don't see any of it. It looks empty when you look in the back. To do the same in a JKU would require some sort of storage bag or box in there all the time, effectively limiting the space I have left for travel items. I also utilize the built in hooks in the rear headliner, because with the tracks and eyes in the back floor, I can use bungee's between the floor and roof, effectively keeping a whole bunch of stuff to one side of the back or the other. This frees up floor space for sleeping, or the dog.
Just for fun, I'd like to compare the dimensions and appearance to the Land Rover Disco's as I bet they are pretty similar. In fact I suspect that some of the body design inspiration came from the LR Disco, it would be fun to see the two side by side.
Beefs: No real beefs with the dimensions. Everything is a compromise and I'm ok with all of this.
Ride and creature comforts:
The stock Offroad ride is pretty good. If you want to really cover some miles and still feel good when you get there, it's good. Seats are good, I like that the seat height is not basically on the floor with your feet out front like a sports car. You sit up straight like a truck and that's the way it should be. The dead pedal is great too.
Some will say that a solid axle is best, I was there, I had a number of them and thought I'd never got to IFS. But... it does ride better. If you know you need SFA (solid front axle) for rock crawling, then get something else and enjoy it. The IFS here works well, rides well, and doesn't beat me up on the way to the woods.
It's pretty simple inside, and I don't want that to change. It's got simple heat controls, AC works great, relatively simple (read: a bit outdated) Rockford Fosgate 6CD 300+ watt stereo (all i need). Comes with not one, but two glove boxes and (the 2012) a large "sunglasses" holder in the headliner. And a pretty large center console as well.
Speaking of the center console, there's a 12V outlet in there, as well as two (on the 06) and one (on the 2012) in the dash, and another in the rear cargo area. I am going to mimic on my 2012 what the 06 had. Which was two 12V outlets in the dash one switched by the key and one not. This was a good setup, it's too bad they changed it. Easy to fix though.
Have to edit again to add a kudos for all the air bags. Seat and side airbags are standard now (optional in 2006).
Beefs: Missing the second 12V outlet on the dash, move the stereo AUX input somewhere else. Also, some have complained that there's no outside temp gauge. Yes there should be one, but only because other manufacturers have it on similar vehicles. I have lived in Maine all my life, and can pretty much tell what the conditions are outside by looking out the window, they usually change in an hour anyway. It's actually easier for me to know the outside temp intuitively in the winter than in the summer.
One other tiny beef is the recirc function. It will not “engage” with the heat/air set to the floor. Clearly Nissan software techs have not been driving down a dusty road and met an oncoming truck and a cloud of dust where you have .23 seconds to shut windows and set it to recirc or you won't be able to breath. If they insist that recirc and floor are a bad combination, just set it to vent+floor automatically when the recirc button is pressed rather than just ignore your attempt to engage recirc.
Mechanical:
Let's start with the great V6 engine. With the manual trans, I can drive it like a V8, it's got torque down low and pulls well. It also spins up if I happen to need the horsepower. Gets pretty good mileage given the tires and weight. I get over 20 on the highway, and average (mostly town driving this winter) 19.4 MPG. I am not an aggressive driver, and am easy on my clutch. But I do have Goodyear Duratrac tires in the stock size (265/75/16), (ditched the stock tires with 5 miles on them when I bought the 2012).
The six speed manual trans is nice. I prefer the control. Manual vs. Auto has been debated to death and I won't do it here. Just get whichever you want. I will note that the auto comes with electronic “hill-descent”. The MT comes with a clutch start cancel switch. I descend icy hills just fine with the MT, sometimes with all four tires chained and rear locker on.
Probably the auto trans would be a better choice if you tow near capacity. My tow duties are pretty easy, and the MT does fine, though with the barn-like snowmobile trailer I tow, filled with two four-stroke “couches” (can you guess the brand?), I have to downshift to 4th and 5th gear on some hills on my way north. No beefs with the engine except one. Though I've never had a problem, I think Nissan should redesign where the alternator is, so that it's higher in the engine bay.
Beef: Please Nissan, make the MT reverse gear the same ratio as first gear. Why they think it's ok to go in reverse faster than going forward but with less visibility, I'll never know. It makes it harder to back a trailer without slipping the clutch.
Both the 06 OR and 2012 Pro4X came stock with a Dana 44 rear axle with an electric locker. Note that sometime after 06 they apparently improved the axle and added two more spider gears for a total of four. Never had issue with my 06 with two though. Both have an excellent VDC (Vehicle Dynamic Control or something like that) that detects slip and slides and auto corrects. Makes me lazy and has saved my bacon a number of times. Would not want to live without it now. If I'm sliding sideways on an icy road, sometimes I don't even bother to correct. I can just leave the right foot and steering alone and magic happens.
It also has an excellent active traction control that will act like a limited slip diff. It even works on the front diff when the rear is locked. Amazing stuff. One of the things I also like, although I am usually "old school" in my preferences, is the electronic throttle, and here's why. They have remapped the throttle response when it's in low range, meaning the throttle plate is less sensitive to the fluctuations of your right foot. Yes, perhaps it's a small detail, and we've gotten by for years with cable throttles, but to drive it in low range is a different and great experience, especially with the manual trans. and on a rough or icy “road”.
Transfer case is old school part time, with a 2.62:1 low range. It does have an electronic actuator, and I think I'd prefer a mechanical lever. Although in 92+k miles (between the 06 and 2012) I've never had an issue with it, it just works. Driving on spotty traction roads is simple, lift right foot, turn dial, and re-apply right foot. Easy.
I think I would like a lower low range, but with the MT and 3.69 axle ratios it's been ok for me so far (almost a 43:1 low range with the manual trans and off road package).
I should note that one of the first things I did to both when I got them was to add a hose nipple to the rear diff and extend a breather hose all the way to the top of the firewall. This keeps moisture out of the rear diff.
Suspension:
I went 40+k miles with the 2006 on the stock suspension. It was bottoming out in the rear with dog and supplies in back. I added a PRG 2 leaf additional springs in back, and a 2” spacer to the front coil over. This fixed all the issues and rode better than stock. Then sometime later, changed the front struts to Bilstein adjustables, set the ring on the third notch and turned the spacer down on the South Bend lathe to .92 inches. This fixed the dreaded upper control arm “coil bucket” contact. The 2012 seems to ride better, and seems to have a better rear springs than 06 did. Though if I decide to change things, I think i'll try the OME system. I don't need a lot of lift. Look what people have, and still are, traveling around the world in.
Don't really know why it does not come with rear coil suspension. The Patrol does and has been around longer. Perhaps it's because the (fully boxed and strong) frame came from the Titan pickup truck. Leafs still work here though.
Brakes:
The 2006 brakes were not great. I insist that Nissan messed up the front-rear proportioning, though Nissan will never admit that. The 2012 is much much better. I have “sexy” brakes now (don't laugh, I know many of you have “relationships” with your trucks too...)
Lighting:
Interior is good, with right and left map lights in the front, another light over the rear seat and one in the rear cargo. I've changed all my interior bulbs to LEDs so I can use them when staying in back without drawing down the battery too much. Headlights are pretty good, and the fog lights work well. I changed the fog bulbs to PIAA amber, because I think that color works better cutting through a snowstorm.
I must note that the 2012 Pro4X comes with roof lights. While at first I thought they looked goofy, after using them up North where moose and deer are all over the place, I don't care how they look. Incredible difference over the 06 that didn't have them. Only beef here is that they tied the roof lights to the high beams. It would be nice to be able to turn them on with the highs or lows. I know why they did that though and it makes sense I guess. If you meet on coming traffic you can turn off your high beams (a natural thing to do) and the roof lights also go off.
Fit and finish and body:
This is good, the doors shut with a nice easy but solid thunk, and are double sealed. All the panel gaps are good. I prefer the rear lift hatch over a door because I can open it and get out of the rain and keep the cargo dry. I can also open it fully with either of my trailers attached. And open it while backing a trailer for better visibility if I need to. If I were to build my own truck from scratch however I'd consider a short rear drop gate and a lift window. Paint is good, but I do live in a state where they salt and sand in the winter. I removed the stock mud flaps because they front ones scratch the paint when they get sand under them. I added "old fashioned" rubber flexible ones. I also repainted the frame inside and out (using POR15 and a hose with nozzle on it from Eastwood.com) on the 2012 for added salt protection. Though the 06 didn't rust much at all, I was careful to watch for it, and rinse them in the winter with hot water to help remove the salt.
Edit: for one more general (though minor) beef: They remolded the front fender liner from 06 to 2012. I used to be able to run chains on the front on the 06 with out any issue, and while I haven't tried yet on the 2012, I'm pretty sure that they would hit the new "bump" in the front plastic fender liner when the wheels are turned. The fix is to heat the area with a hair dryer and push the bump backward. Easy, but why didn't Nissan think about this?
A couple of photos: https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A4532ODWVhahG
So... sorry for the long winded response. If I had the expertise, time, money, etc to build the best general use on and off-road truck for me the Nissan Xterra would be pretty darn close, so close I've bought two of them. I'd change the few things I mentioned above. But other than that I like the idea of an old fashioned off-road capable wagon with just enough modern stuff to make the older mechanicals work even better.
I am pushing 50 (really strange to see that in "print"...) and have been buying and driving four wheel drives since I was in high school. Living in Maine we get pretty diverse conditions, from warm weather for a month or so, to fall and then winter snow. And of course there's mud season, which we're in now. I have a place in Northern Maine that I try to get to as often as I can, as well as enjoying exploring New England and eastern Canada.
I have always liked a vehicle that would take me places, keep my stuff clean and dry and allow me to sleep in the back when I want to. I also tow a boat in the summer and a snowmobile trailer in the winter.
I have had two Xterras, the first was a 2006 Off Road, with a manual trans. that I traded at nearly 80k miles for a 2012 Xterra Pro4X, also a manual trans. because I was afraid they'd change the design and screw it up. So I have no experience with the non off-road version. The OR specs come with bigger tires (approx 32”
and slightly better shocks, skid plates. The MTs come with a lower axle gear ratio, 3.69:1.I like old school, relatively simple stuff (even working on the 47 Willys in the garage this week). But if I were to set out to build an off road wagon to do what I want to do, I'd have a hard time coming up with many changes to the Xterra, with a few exceptions, but I'll get to those. First, let's go through the good stuff, and I'll put some beefs if any, in each section.
Dimensions:
It's relatively short wheelbase for a four door vehicle, for easy maneuvering, short overhang on the front, and pretty good in the back (the stock tow hitch is not so good for this, but an integrated rear bumper/hitch like a Shrockworks fixes this). Breakover angle is pretty good as all the mechanicals are tucked up in the frame. I think it's actually a shorter wheelbase than the JKU if I recall, but the departure angle is worse than the JKU. The roof line and back seats are good, although I have never ridden in the back, I get no complaints from passengers. Interior dimensions are good for me. Not huge like a Suburban, but that would come with a price like longer wheelbase or worse departure angle. If you get a newer one, and don't get the leather seats, then it should come with a front passenger seat that folds forward, allowing you to carry long items. This is also handy if you are sleeping in it. Or if the dog is in the back and likes to look through the windshield. With the rear seats folded, (the rear seat bottom cushions can be removed and left home, bonus) and the front passenger seat back folded forward, it looks simply cavernous inside.
Apparently the JKU cargo space is suppose to be larger on paper. I'd have to see that to believe it, because I use the rear "trunk" in the Xterra for all kinds of stuff and I also use the roof box as well. The stuff I carry in the Xterra every day is amazing, and you don't see any of it. It looks empty when you look in the back. To do the same in a JKU would require some sort of storage bag or box in there all the time, effectively limiting the space I have left for travel items. I also utilize the built in hooks in the rear headliner, because with the tracks and eyes in the back floor, I can use bungee's between the floor and roof, effectively keeping a whole bunch of stuff to one side of the back or the other. This frees up floor space for sleeping, or the dog.
Just for fun, I'd like to compare the dimensions and appearance to the Land Rover Disco's as I bet they are pretty similar. In fact I suspect that some of the body design inspiration came from the LR Disco, it would be fun to see the two side by side.
Beefs: No real beefs with the dimensions. Everything is a compromise and I'm ok with all of this.
Ride and creature comforts:
The stock Offroad ride is pretty good. If you want to really cover some miles and still feel good when you get there, it's good. Seats are good, I like that the seat height is not basically on the floor with your feet out front like a sports car. You sit up straight like a truck and that's the way it should be. The dead pedal is great too.
Some will say that a solid axle is best, I was there, I had a number of them and thought I'd never got to IFS. But... it does ride better. If you know you need SFA (solid front axle) for rock crawling, then get something else and enjoy it. The IFS here works well, rides well, and doesn't beat me up on the way to the woods.
It's pretty simple inside, and I don't want that to change. It's got simple heat controls, AC works great, relatively simple (read: a bit outdated) Rockford Fosgate 6CD 300+ watt stereo (all i need). Comes with not one, but two glove boxes and (the 2012) a large "sunglasses" holder in the headliner. And a pretty large center console as well.
Speaking of the center console, there's a 12V outlet in there, as well as two (on the 06) and one (on the 2012) in the dash, and another in the rear cargo area. I am going to mimic on my 2012 what the 06 had. Which was two 12V outlets in the dash one switched by the key and one not. This was a good setup, it's too bad they changed it. Easy to fix though.
Have to edit again to add a kudos for all the air bags. Seat and side airbags are standard now (optional in 2006).
Beefs: Missing the second 12V outlet on the dash, move the stereo AUX input somewhere else. Also, some have complained that there's no outside temp gauge. Yes there should be one, but only because other manufacturers have it on similar vehicles. I have lived in Maine all my life, and can pretty much tell what the conditions are outside by looking out the window, they usually change in an hour anyway. It's actually easier for me to know the outside temp intuitively in the winter than in the summer.
One other tiny beef is the recirc function. It will not “engage” with the heat/air set to the floor. Clearly Nissan software techs have not been driving down a dusty road and met an oncoming truck and a cloud of dust where you have .23 seconds to shut windows and set it to recirc or you won't be able to breath. If they insist that recirc and floor are a bad combination, just set it to vent+floor automatically when the recirc button is pressed rather than just ignore your attempt to engage recirc.
Mechanical:
Let's start with the great V6 engine. With the manual trans, I can drive it like a V8, it's got torque down low and pulls well. It also spins up if I happen to need the horsepower. Gets pretty good mileage given the tires and weight. I get over 20 on the highway, and average (mostly town driving this winter) 19.4 MPG. I am not an aggressive driver, and am easy on my clutch. But I do have Goodyear Duratrac tires in the stock size (265/75/16), (ditched the stock tires with 5 miles on them when I bought the 2012).
The six speed manual trans is nice. I prefer the control. Manual vs. Auto has been debated to death and I won't do it here. Just get whichever you want. I will note that the auto comes with electronic “hill-descent”. The MT comes with a clutch start cancel switch. I descend icy hills just fine with the MT, sometimes with all four tires chained and rear locker on.
Probably the auto trans would be a better choice if you tow near capacity. My tow duties are pretty easy, and the MT does fine, though with the barn-like snowmobile trailer I tow, filled with two four-stroke “couches” (can you guess the brand?), I have to downshift to 4th and 5th gear on some hills on my way north. No beefs with the engine except one. Though I've never had a problem, I think Nissan should redesign where the alternator is, so that it's higher in the engine bay.
Beef: Please Nissan, make the MT reverse gear the same ratio as first gear. Why they think it's ok to go in reverse faster than going forward but with less visibility, I'll never know. It makes it harder to back a trailer without slipping the clutch.
Both the 06 OR and 2012 Pro4X came stock with a Dana 44 rear axle with an electric locker. Note that sometime after 06 they apparently improved the axle and added two more spider gears for a total of four. Never had issue with my 06 with two though. Both have an excellent VDC (Vehicle Dynamic Control or something like that) that detects slip and slides and auto corrects. Makes me lazy and has saved my bacon a number of times. Would not want to live without it now. If I'm sliding sideways on an icy road, sometimes I don't even bother to correct. I can just leave the right foot and steering alone and magic happens.
It also has an excellent active traction control that will act like a limited slip diff. It even works on the front diff when the rear is locked. Amazing stuff. One of the things I also like, although I am usually "old school" in my preferences, is the electronic throttle, and here's why. They have remapped the throttle response when it's in low range, meaning the throttle plate is less sensitive to the fluctuations of your right foot. Yes, perhaps it's a small detail, and we've gotten by for years with cable throttles, but to drive it in low range is a different and great experience, especially with the manual trans. and on a rough or icy “road”.
Transfer case is old school part time, with a 2.62:1 low range. It does have an electronic actuator, and I think I'd prefer a mechanical lever. Although in 92+k miles (between the 06 and 2012) I've never had an issue with it, it just works. Driving on spotty traction roads is simple, lift right foot, turn dial, and re-apply right foot. Easy.
I think I would like a lower low range, but with the MT and 3.69 axle ratios it's been ok for me so far (almost a 43:1 low range with the manual trans and off road package).
I should note that one of the first things I did to both when I got them was to add a hose nipple to the rear diff and extend a breather hose all the way to the top of the firewall. This keeps moisture out of the rear diff.
Suspension:
I went 40+k miles with the 2006 on the stock suspension. It was bottoming out in the rear with dog and supplies in back. I added a PRG 2 leaf additional springs in back, and a 2” spacer to the front coil over. This fixed all the issues and rode better than stock. Then sometime later, changed the front struts to Bilstein adjustables, set the ring on the third notch and turned the spacer down on the South Bend lathe to .92 inches. This fixed the dreaded upper control arm “coil bucket” contact. The 2012 seems to ride better, and seems to have a better rear springs than 06 did. Though if I decide to change things, I think i'll try the OME system. I don't need a lot of lift. Look what people have, and still are, traveling around the world in.
Don't really know why it does not come with rear coil suspension. The Patrol does and has been around longer. Perhaps it's because the (fully boxed and strong) frame came from the Titan pickup truck. Leafs still work here though.
Brakes:
The 2006 brakes were not great. I insist that Nissan messed up the front-rear proportioning, though Nissan will never admit that. The 2012 is much much better. I have “sexy” brakes now (don't laugh, I know many of you have “relationships” with your trucks too...)
Lighting:
Interior is good, with right and left map lights in the front, another light over the rear seat and one in the rear cargo. I've changed all my interior bulbs to LEDs so I can use them when staying in back without drawing down the battery too much. Headlights are pretty good, and the fog lights work well. I changed the fog bulbs to PIAA amber, because I think that color works better cutting through a snowstorm.
I must note that the 2012 Pro4X comes with roof lights. While at first I thought they looked goofy, after using them up North where moose and deer are all over the place, I don't care how they look. Incredible difference over the 06 that didn't have them. Only beef here is that they tied the roof lights to the high beams. It would be nice to be able to turn them on with the highs or lows. I know why they did that though and it makes sense I guess. If you meet on coming traffic you can turn off your high beams (a natural thing to do) and the roof lights also go off.
Fit and finish and body:
This is good, the doors shut with a nice easy but solid thunk, and are double sealed. All the panel gaps are good. I prefer the rear lift hatch over a door because I can open it and get out of the rain and keep the cargo dry. I can also open it fully with either of my trailers attached. And open it while backing a trailer for better visibility if I need to. If I were to build my own truck from scratch however I'd consider a short rear drop gate and a lift window. Paint is good, but I do live in a state where they salt and sand in the winter. I removed the stock mud flaps because they front ones scratch the paint when they get sand under them. I added "old fashioned" rubber flexible ones. I also repainted the frame inside and out (using POR15 and a hose with nozzle on it from Eastwood.com) on the 2012 for added salt protection. Though the 06 didn't rust much at all, I was careful to watch for it, and rinse them in the winter with hot water to help remove the salt.
Edit: for one more general (though minor) beef: They remolded the front fender liner from 06 to 2012. I used to be able to run chains on the front on the 06 with out any issue, and while I haven't tried yet on the 2012, I'm pretty sure that they would hit the new "bump" in the front plastic fender liner when the wheels are turned. The fix is to heat the area with a hair dryer and push the bump backward. Easy, but why didn't Nissan think about this?
A couple of photos: https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A4532ODWVhahG
So... sorry for the long winded response. If I had the expertise, time, money, etc to build the best general use on and off-road truck for me the Nissan Xterra would be pretty darn close, so close I've bought two of them. I'd change the few things I mentioned above. But other than that I like the idea of an old fashioned off-road capable wagon with just enough modern stuff to make the older mechanicals work even better.
Last edited:
Ovis Canis
Observer
Jarmentrout, thanks for the awesome review. That is great info. I was going to wait to get a X tell after I sold my 02 Avalanche, but I found an 06 X s model yesterday for a good price. So I'm going to try to pick it up tomorrow before someone else does. It won't have the rear locker but I'm hoping adding that won't be to difficult. Thanks again for the insight
jarmentrout
Observer
Subscribe to thenewx.org.
There are a couple things to check when buying used, one is the transmission if its an auto. Search for SMOD on thenewx. Apparently the radiator coolant lines can corrode and mix coolant with trans fluid. An easy fix is to add an external trans cooler and disconnect the lines from the radiator or just replace the radiator with a new one. (I like the simplicity of a manual, and had thoughts of using the radiator transmission heat exchanger lines to heat shower water, but havent done that yet.). Also listen to the engine carefully if its got 60k miles or more. Some people are reporting timing chain guide wear. I had 80k on my 06 and always used synthetic oil and never heard any issue in my engine. And there are many with 200-300k miles. If it sounds more like an old singer sewing machine as you rev it then investigate that further before purchase. As usual the few vocal folks on the internet can make things sound like there are many cases of these, but its a small percentage. Glad to help.
John
There are a couple things to check when buying used, one is the transmission if its an auto. Search for SMOD on thenewx. Apparently the radiator coolant lines can corrode and mix coolant with trans fluid. An easy fix is to add an external trans cooler and disconnect the lines from the radiator or just replace the radiator with a new one. (I like the simplicity of a manual, and had thoughts of using the radiator transmission heat exchanger lines to heat shower water, but havent done that yet.). Also listen to the engine carefully if its got 60k miles or more. Some people are reporting timing chain guide wear. I had 80k on my 06 and always used synthetic oil and never heard any issue in my engine. And there are many with 200-300k miles. If it sounds more like an old singer sewing machine as you rev it then investigate that further before purchase. As usual the few vocal folks on the internet can make things sound like there are many cases of these, but its a small percentage. Glad to help.
John
05nissanXterra
Observer
My 05 Xterra S came locker less and I installed a automatic locker for less than $400 and in less then 4 hrs.
Sent from my iPhone4 using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone4 using Tapatalk
jarmentrout
Observer
I believe there's ARB lockers now for front and rear (esp for the M226/Dana 44 variant) and I know some have sourced a stock M226 rear axle with the stock locker in it from a junk yard. Wiring a switch on it is fairly easy.
05nissanXterra
Observer
Ovis Canis
Observer
Thanks for all the info everyone. Because of you and the people over at ThenewX I picked up I'm confodent was a solid purchase. I just bought an '06 X model, MT, 4x4. It came with undersized tires and 117k miles. With no timing chain whine and only minor scratches and two very small dents on the rear door, I thought it a deal at $7,300.00. Thanks again.
The day I bought it.
A few days later.
The day I bought it.
A few days later.
duckhunter71
Adventurer
Seems like a great deal! And great way to break it in! What kind of tires did you get?
Ovis Canis
Observer
The tires are 365/75R16 Goodyear duratracs
I think you mean 265/75/16 .