2010 JK Rubicon Unlimited 35's or 37's???

[Inc]

I think that 30% should be enough additional strength and if you add inner and outer like Mike said, you're really not going to have issues. It takes a lot more work to make a bullet proof 44 to handle 37s and be able to really beat on the jeep, but I think if you are pretty easy on the jeep you can make 37s work with some, not tons of modifications. 35s will require far less work, especially if you don't really beat on your rig. I guess it comes down to your driving style and where you plan on taking the rig.

 

[F5driver]

This kit was not available when I sleeved and trussed the axle or I would have gone with it.

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16149

 

[mmccurdy]

I have 45k miles on my 35" Toyo M/T's, and I am having this very same internal debate since I need to replace them in the next month or so.

Although I do think 37's and the right amount of lift (4" ballpark) look very nice on the vehicle from an aesthetic standpoint, I think that's really the only thing in favor of going that route.

I have seen a whole host of issues on rigs running 37's that I have never had to deal with running 35's. Death wobble, bump steer, ball joint failures, rubbing at full flex, etc. That said, I believe driving style has as much to do with these issues as the tire size, so I would take it with a grain of salt. I do not believe there is a hard "maximum" you can run with a D44, it completely depends on how and where you drive. A D44 will push 37's all day long on the freeway without issue :ylsmoke:

I'm also pretty convinced that in real-world wheeling, and especially expedition type driving, the difference in capability between 35's and 37's is minimal. I have always been able to follow rigs running 37's anywhere I wanted to go.

I think I am coming down on the side of replacing my 35's with the exact same tire, since I have been extremely happy with them overall. My 2 cents.

 

[mrchips]

Doing the inner is a whole other deal as you need to remove all the internals, have it sleeved and welded, and then replace all the guts and have the gearset tolerances put back to spec, so dont think the average Joe will be taking on such a project.
Now you could go with Dynatracs 44 housing and transfer your guts, and then sell the old housing to offset costs and really have a stout axle with stout brackets, tubes and outer C's . Jk outer knuckles and C brackets are not that strong. I have seen tubes bend, ball joints break and seen pics of tubes that have fractured due to running larger tires.
Randy's Ring and Pinion diff book has recommended tire size to axle charts and he only recommends 35's.
Anyway enough of that, to each his own.

 

[Ford Prefect]

It is really going to have to be up to you. Do not weigh too heavily the opinions you find online.

Personally I would tell you to seriously reconsider the manual tranny. For the overland trip the auto is better, for DD the auto is better, and if you are looking for a more rock ready vehicle, the auto is better. The only good thing about the manual tranny is that you can sometimes save a little on gas if you drive conservatively.

As for the tires.

Here is an important thing to consider. WHERE will you find 37's meant for a wheel as small as a Jeeps, if you are on an overland trip outside of the USA? 37's are getting popular here, but get yourself into Central/South America, not much chance of finding such an impracticable tire. So if you get a flat you have no matching spare, and thus on the second flat you can not use 4x4 anymore, nor the lockers.

Just food for thought. Yes I am sure you can find a 37 for a 22" rim like on the Unimog, but for a tiny little 17-18" rim, I doubt it.

Well, that is my two bits. Make of it what you will. Good luck on your build.