2011 Tac Ideas

ETAV8R

Founder of D.E.R.P.
Sadr city... It was called Saddam city in ' 03 when 1st Marine Division took it over. I was there with 2nd Bn 5th Marines (V/2/5)
Doc some of my bros were with 2/23, you must have been close in with them. Have you seen 'Severe Clear'. For a short timer like me who never saw combat it was amazing especially since it was filmed by a 1st Lt in an arty unit connected to my bros unit. I watched it at his place while he was at work and then asked him how close it was to what he experienced and he said it was what he went through.
Crazy. Great documentary.
Oooh Rah!
 

southpier

Expedition Leader
.... I would leave the spare down low on the stock location for CG/weight reasons ...


how would this be dropped if a flat occurred on a bumpy lane? i got my first pickup in '73 and never have left the spare anywhere but in the bed.
 

Dave Bennett

Adventurist
how would this be dropped if a flat occurred on a bumpy lane? i got my first pickup in '73 and never have left the spare anywhere but in the bed.

Well, for me, if I cant lift the truck enough with my HiLift and ARB X-Jack I've got bigger problems than spare tire access... Seriously, I'd have to really screwed up somewere I never should have been.

YMMV
 

Newtac11

Observer
As I lay awake at night brainstorming the build direction I want to take, I thought of trailers. The Government is getting rid of a lot of the old M101 trailers (Not Canada 101's) Was wondering if I would loose to much by building up a trailer, and leaving the Tac light (recovery equipment and gas).

Pros (I think): Keeps truck weight down for daily driver
Set up base camp and go
Fewer Mods to truck
Can leave it packed for Hook up and Go option

Cons: Will I be setting up at a central location?
If not, how much will this effect trail-worthiness?
Is the M101A2 even a decent trailer to try this with?

Things I'm thinking of putting on trailer:
water at least 19 gl
Fuel 2 cans
Field Kitchen...stove..counter...grill (really like the Snow Peak setup!)
Tools/repair parts
RTT
Batt and solar charger
Generator
Cooler/fridge

Any thoughts?
 

SPDSHFT

New member
I cant wait to see what it looks like when its finished.

Like others have said, the sliders are a MUST get in the beginning. They will get the most use until you get some ground clearance (I know).

I went with Demello Hybrid weld/bolt-on sliders for the Tundy. They use square tubing for the inner rail and round tubing for the outter. Quality product and great customer service! http://www.demello-offroad.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=27_21
 

musty40

Observer
Newtac11,

I think I would hold out for a 1/4 ton trailer.

Looking forward to watching the build. I'm just starting on my 2010 Tacoma.

Alan
 

Newtac11

Observer
Mod #1 wil be ordered as soon as the Tax refund arrives.

I have decided to use given advice here and get sliders.(a smart man heads advice of smarter men) I chose the All-Pro rock sliders
http://www.allprooffroad.com/05tacomatrailarmor/05tacomarocksliders

I like the fact that they beef up the frame a bit, have countersunk bolts (so they dont hang or become damaged on rock), have the kick out, and use a thicker walled tube (.132 as opposed to .120). I will most likely have them welded on though. The price is nice at $400 also.

Now I leave it up to you all to tell me why I shouldn't...or good choice.
 

deadbeat son

Explorer
Mod #1 wil be ordered as soon as the Tax refund arrives.

I have decided to use given advice here and get sliders.(a smart man heads advice of smarter men) I chose the All-Pro rock sliders
http://www.allprooffroad.com/05tacomatrailarmor/05tacomarocksliders

I like the fact that they beef up the frame a bit, have countersunk bolts (so they dont hang or become damaged on rock), have the kick out, and use a thicker walled tube (.132 as opposed to .120). I will most likely have them welded on though. The price is nice at $400 also.

Now I leave it up to you all to tell me why I shouldn't...or good choice.

Good choice on getting a set of sliders. From the photos, the All-Pro look like a pretty quality piece. I went with Slee Sliders, but they're more than double the price of the All-Pro. The Slees also reinforce the frame, but I think the fit is their biggest advantage. They bolted up exactly, with precise compensation for every little rivet or bolt in the frame. I installed them in my driveway with a headlamp in about 2 hrs. There was something that I didn't like about the idea of welding the frame on my new truck.

All in all, I'd say the All-Pro sound like a good choice for your needs.
 

WASURF63

Adventurer
Mod #1 wil be ordered as soon as the Tax refund arrives.

I have decided to use given advice here and get sliders.(a smart man heads advice of smarter men) I chose the All-Pro rock sliders
http://www.allprooffroad.com/05tacomatrailarmor/05tacomarocksliders

I like the fact that they beef up the frame a bit, have countersunk bolts (so they dont hang or become damaged on rock), have the kick out, and use a thicker walled tube (.132 as opposed to .120). I will most likely have them welded on though. The price is nice at $400 also.

Now I leave it up to you all to tell me why I shouldn't...or good choice.


The good choice was made when you decided to add sliders, period.:ylsmoke:
I've had both. I'm running a bolt-on version this time around.
I don't consistently pound the crap out of them, just periodically,
and both versions have held up pretty well for my intended use.
Could argue pros and cons all day.

There is some good discussion here:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2414

Have you added Stubbs sliders to your list of considerations?
http://www.stubbswelding.com/page14.html
 

Newtac11

Observer
Ordered the ALL-PRO sliders Monday. http://www.allprooffroad.com/05tacomatrailarmor/05tacomarocksliders Was hoping to have them as a weekend project(as I was told they would ship in a couple days), but the gentleman informed me friday that all the stock is there to make em...so...maybe next weekend? Missed out on some good weather for install too...oh well.

Ended up spending the day drooling on some Kimbers and an FNH FNX 40 at the Bass Pro Shop in Denver.
 

Dave Bennett

Adventurist
I have weld on sliders from Bent Up.

Bolt on is better, theyll need paint or powdercoat again in the future... For that reason alone I recommend not welding them on. Bolt on is GTG.

YMMV
 

Newtac11

Observer
Bolt on sliders are in.:wings: now to prime/paint them.
Awfuly hard sitting here at work knowing they are in the bed of the truck right now.:drool:

Whats worse is they will have to wait until wed night at best (bowling league tonite) I was thinking a flat matt black finish...recomendations? A black high gloss may be easier to clean...
 

Dave Bennett

Adventurist
My first recommendation is to NOT rattle can them - it wont hold up, especially on sliders, so while you have them off I'd POWDER COAT them. Otherwise, you'll be like me and repainting those suckers once or twice a year...

If you must paint, I recommend 2 methods in order of preference:

1. POR-15. Good prep, base coat and top coat. Best paint option IMO.

2. Rust Oleum semi gloss black. Good prep, use a good self etching red oxide primer and top coat with the semi gloss black.
 

TangoBlue

American Adventurist
X2 on the PC. In fact I recommend matte finish "crinckle coat" type black. The fine, rough texture provides some grippy texture to climb on, masks deformities caused by rocks, and can be easily touched up with a variety of matte black spray-on paint. I'm VERY glad to have it - makes touch up painless.
 

Newtac11

Observer
Has anyone tried Rhino Liner on these? would it work?

Doc....can I get POR-15 at Lowes or Home Depot? And, are you saying to use the POR-15 as prep and primer? Sorry to ask such simple questions, but I have never painted metal...
 

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