Superduty
Adventurer
WOW, awesome performance from your F350. My truck is an F350 CC Long Bed - I wouldn't try that trail.....but it would be fun with my Jeep TJ.
2020 Ford F250 on 37s - Expedition Truck Camper Build!
- Thread starter montypower
- Start date
WOW, awesome performance from your F350. My truck is an F350 CC Long Bed - I wouldn't try that trail.....but it would be fun with my Jeep TJ.
I'm facing a dilemma with rear supsension on my F350 right now. Curious why you chose to have a custom spring pack built for loaded condition vs other alternatives (air bags, etc.) which may offer better performance loaded and unloaded? I've recently posted a thread within the Full Size forum-would be curious to have your input.
F350 Suspension Setup for near GVWR Adventures
Hello All, Seeking some advice from the forums. We've got a 2013 Ford F350 CCSB SRW. Lots of aftermarket goodies including winch bumper, Icon 2.5" kit, 37's, 4.88 gears etc. I purchased the truck with the current suspension setup and am looking to make some changes to: 1-Address minor nose...
expeditionportal.com
montypower
Adventure Time!
I really dislike air bags...
1. Air bag fails your trip is over. And it could be just one bag.
2. Off road performance. You are basically ridding on a bouncy ball. Which is fine on road or extremely light off road. But try taking whooped roads or pot holes or rough terrain. It is not a desirable suspension system and quality shocks won't help.
I think air bags sort of make sense for trailer towing... since you'll be driving slowly anyhow. And you have the soft ride when disconnected. I still wouldn't choose them. I've been running the Timbren bump stops and fully stock suspension on the F250 (shocks have been on back order and springs just completed). I think it's an excellent air bag alternative that is cheaper, simple and reliable. Can't wait to get the Fox shocks and Deaver spring installed!
Of course, the issue with building your suspension around the loaded hauling weight is the ride may be a bit rougher if/when unloaded. But what I've found... Quality Deaver springs built for max weight with quality tuned adjustable shocks will ride better than the stock oem truck springs/shocks. So if you can live with the stock ride... anything will be an improvement!
The HUGE upside of building suspension around your loaded weight is that it handles AWESOME! It feels much more nimble almost like a stock truck while fully loaded. You can hit the big bumps and fully absorbs them. And you have reliability, simplicity. Which in the end is most important to me.
We've taken the F250 out already and caught some air on whooped out sections of road. It is incredible how it handles - not harsh or bottoming out. My old 2016 Tundra with Four Wheel Camper could catch air and enjoy a pillow landing. It was fun in Baja driving 60mph on rough roads.
So in the end... depends on what you want and how you plan to use it.
1. Air bag fails your trip is over. And it could be just one bag.
2. Off road performance. You are basically ridding on a bouncy ball. Which is fine on road or extremely light off road. But try taking whooped roads or pot holes or rough terrain. It is not a desirable suspension system and quality shocks won't help.
I think air bags sort of make sense for trailer towing... since you'll be driving slowly anyhow. And you have the soft ride when disconnected. I still wouldn't choose them. I've been running the Timbren bump stops and fully stock suspension on the F250 (shocks have been on back order and springs just completed). I think it's an excellent air bag alternative that is cheaper, simple and reliable. Can't wait to get the Fox shocks and Deaver spring installed!
Of course, the issue with building your suspension around the loaded hauling weight is the ride may be a bit rougher if/when unloaded. But what I've found... Quality Deaver springs built for max weight with quality tuned adjustable shocks will ride better than the stock oem truck springs/shocks. So if you can live with the stock ride... anything will be an improvement!
The HUGE upside of building suspension around your loaded weight is that it handles AWESOME! It feels much more nimble almost like a stock truck while fully loaded. You can hit the big bumps and fully absorbs them. And you have reliability, simplicity. Which in the end is most important to me.
We've taken the F250 out already and caught some air on whooped out sections of road. It is incredible how it handles - not harsh or bottoming out. My old 2016 Tundra with Four Wheel Camper could catch air and enjoy a pillow landing. It was fun in Baja driving 60mph on rough roads.
So in the end... depends on what you want and how you plan to use it.
montypower
Adventure Time!
Camper is 7ft main body. Ours is 7'4" with basement.
The interesting thing with flatbed campers is that they sit over the wheel wells. So you basically gain another 9-12" more than a slide in camper. But flatbed campers are becoming cool....
The interesting thing with flatbed campers is that they sit over the wheel wells. So you basically gain another 9-12" more than a slide in camper. But flatbed campers are becoming cool....
Sorry, I should have been more clear - what is the height to the top of the camper body when installed in the bed of your truck? I know it's a hassle to measure so no worries if you can't. Just curious.
montypower
Adventure Time!
Bed height is about 38". So overall is 126" = 10'5"
Thanks a ton for the information, thought process aligns with mine and has me thinking its worth it to drop the extra coin. Do you mind sharing a bit about your order process with Deaver? What all did you need to provide to them? How long of a lead time? Any specific considerations to tell them such as progressive, etc. Pm is fine as well. Thanks again!
montypower
Adventure Time!
You can call or email Jeff @ Deaver. He designs the springs based on your truck with desired load @ specified height. I requested 2" lift over stock height with 3,500lb load with factory blocks removed. Leaf springs by nature are progressive. Expect 8-10 weeks. Could be longer depending on shut downs (thanks Covid). Hope that helps!
He's built springs for my 2013 Tacoma, 2016 Tundra and will be installing soon for the 2020 F250.
Can you help to share the benefit of having the springs designed for use without Factory blocks? Some would say axle wrap but I'm not buying that if its the factory design. Main reason I ask is because I know Ford designed the F250 with 2" blocks and F350 with 4" block. I do understand the extra 2" in F350 is just to deal with sag from additional load capacity. However, it seems like there should be a reason they at least put a 2" block in for the F250 instead of just using Spring on 250 and 2" block on 350. Not sure why Ford would do this when could have just designed a leaf spring sans block unless it was needed. Does this have to do with clearance of axle components, brake lines, etc.? More just interested in any considerations or the why of moving from a factory block to no block with aftermarket springs.
montypower
Adventure Time!
This is one dislike I have with the Ford design. It's to save them money. They can manufacture a set of springs and use them on a bunch of trucks. 2WD no block. 4WD block and F350 bigger block. Yes, blocks can give more opportunity for axle wrap. But there is absolutely no advantage for having blocks on this truck. It's cost related.
If I have the option, I always choose no blocks or lowest block possible. Most of the cheap lifts just give you bigger blocks and that is where problems happen... The factory suspension with blocks works fine for what it is. Possible upside of removing blocks is gaining compression travel without negative arching your springs.
So partly preference and partly function. You can design replacement leaf springs and retain the stock blocks -- but why?
If I have the option, I always choose no blocks or lowest block possible. Most of the cheap lifts just give you bigger blocks and that is where problems happen... The factory suspension with blocks works fine for what it is. Possible upside of removing blocks is gaining compression travel without negative arching your springs.
So partly preference and partly function. You can design replacement leaf springs and retain the stock blocks -- but why?
McCarthy
Is it riding season yet?
Where do you get your information from? Air bags are not like riding on a "bouncy ball" in any way shape or form.
I drive on nasty whooped roads and rough terrain daily with air bags, no difference from stock when unloaded.
Also, airbags are better off road than timbrens. (though neither are great) Timbrens limit suspension travel and make it very difficult to retain stock or stock like compression. Airbags with a proper daystar cradle allow full droop and within a few mm of full compression.
A deaver leaf pack is great when loaded, and would be my choice 100% of the time for a full time rig, but again, makes the ride very uncomfortable when empty. All shocks do is control the springs, they do not make it ride any better in any way shape or form. They control the springs and keep the truck from bouncing.
Last edited:
montypower
Adventure Time!
Thanks for sharing your experience. Glad that setup works well for you.
montypower
Adventure Time!
Do you need a steering stabilizer?
Yes and No. If you have a solid axle truck…it will help dampen the steering feedback from your suspension and tires. Stock trucks won’t need nearly as much damping assistance from the steering stabilizer. However, installing a suspension lift, larger or more aggressive tires will drastically affect your steering feedback. To help lessen the “bump steer” and steering feedback you’ll want to upgrade your steering stabilizer.
Note: steering stabilizer does not resolve poor suspension, steering geometry or worn parts.
You can upgrade to a higher performance steering stabilizer or install dual steering stabilizers. Dual stabilizers will provide increased damping but typically they are mounted low on the tie rod and not adjustable.
Fox Factory Race Series 2.0 Stabilizer ATS will give you the performance of a dual stabilizers but retain the factory mounting location (up high) on the drag link. It has a 24 click adjuster to fine tune the amount of damping for your truck. The through shaft design allows for consistent performance through the entire range of steering motion. And the piggy back reservoir gives additional fluid volume to help dissipate heat. IFP – Internal Floating Piston keeps the nitrogen gas separated from the shock oil. Really cool technology!
We are running 37” tires with 4” of suspension lift. With the adjuster set at 12-14 it provides more damping than the stock stabilizer did with factory tires and suspension. It is extremely effective.
It’s great to see a drastic improvement in design and performance.
What do you think about this stabilizer?
montypower
Adventure Time!
So… What is the difference??
Body = Same (except badging)
Interior = Same
Frame = Same
Front Axle = Same
Rear Axle =
2017-2019 F250 & F350 Gas (not HD tow) : Sterling 10.5”
2017-2020 F250 & F350 Diesel : Dana M275 10.8”
2020 F250 6.2L : Sterling 10.5”
2020 F250 & F350 7.3L : Dana M275 10.8”
Leaf Springs =
F250 : 3 Leaf Pack (shorter block)
F350 : 4 Leaf Pack (taller block)
Additional variations include: diesel vs gas, camper package, snow plow (available for either F250 or F350)
Motors = Same
Transmissions =
2017-2019 F250 6.2L : 6R100G 6 Speed
2017-2019 F250 Diesel & All F350 : 6R140 6 Speed
2020 F250 6.2L : 6R100G 6 Speed
2020 F250 7.3L & 6.7L & All F350 : 10R140 10 Speed
GVWR =
F250 under 10,000lbs
F350 up to 12,400lbs
F350 offers higher payload and tow ratings (depending on configuration) compared to F250.
F350 is the only option if you want a dually.
F350 may be classified as a “commercial vehicle” check your state.
F250 is cheaper by $1,000+ compared to the F350.
Which would you choose?