3/4 or 1 ton gas reliability

Explorerinil

Observer
I wonder if theses Dodge T-case failures are caused by the double cardon joint in the front driveshaft not being greased. So many times this greasing is not performed by do-it-yourself guys and even dealers/lube shops. The sticker under the hood says to grease the joint at every oil change. You need a special needle grease injector to grease it. I could see if the double cardon seized it could cause damage to the t-case.
I bet it is, btw it’s not very common. I had a few free oil changed at the dealer when I got my truck, they didn’t even grease it.
 

Pilotamis

Observer
After speaking with some friends andreading the comments we’ve decided to stick with a F-250. Since the rig is heading south with no return date set we think a Ford gives us more options for parts and mechanics. We’ve found 2 trucks and maybe you can help.

First that we looked at today is a 2010 V-10 XLT F-250 with 150k and it has a ticking sound at cold start up. It goes away after a minute or 2. It sounds like it’s coming from the passenger side of the block. I didn’t see any black soot along the exhaust manifold when I looked. The dealership that’s selling the truck is supposed to be diagnosing it today, but like all dealerships, I don’t trust them. What are my likely culprits? Overall the truck was worked. It’s pin striped and has a custom drain hole in the bed that was a gooseneck hitch. In its previous life it was used to haul equipment to put logging roads in plus haul a horse trailer on weekends. Upside is it has newer Warn from hubs. Max payload is 2450.

Also, I found a 2011 6.2 with 36k miles and 450 idle hrs for 8k more. Truck sounds and looks like it’s brand new, but it’s an XL with no power or cruise but in way better shape. Only issue we had with it was the hubs were never moved to free so they were stuck. Needed a wrench to turn them to free. It also has an electronic rear locker and the other one doesn’t. Our plan is to load our Four Wheel Camper into it and start driving to Argentina then back come October. 8k goes a long way on that trip. Which rig which you rather have and trust? Max payload is 2900.
 

Todd n Natalie

OverCamper
After speaking with some friends andreading the comments we’ve decided to stick with a F-250. Since the rig is heading south with no return date set we think a Ford gives us more options for parts and mechanics. We’ve found 2 trucks and maybe you can help.

First that we looked at today is a 2010 V-10 XLT F-250 with 150k and it has a ticking sound at cold start up. It goes away after a minute or 2. It sounds like it’s coming from the passenger side of the block. I didn’t see any black soot along the exhaust manifold when I looked. The dealership that’s selling the truck is supposed to be diagnosing it today, but like all dealerships, I don’t trust them. What are my likely culprits? Overall the truck was worked. It’s pin striped and has a custom drain hole in the bed that was a gooseneck hitch. In its previous life it was used to haul equipment to put logging roads in plus haul a horse trailer on weekends. Upside is it has newer Warn from hubs. Max payload is 2450.

Also, I found a 2011 6.2 with 36k miles and 450 idle hrs for 8k more. Truck sounds and looks like it’s brand new, but it’s an XL with no power or cruise but in way better shape. Only issue we had with it was the hubs were never moved to free so they were stuck. Needed a wrench to turn them to free. It also has an electronic rear locker and the other one doesn’t. Our plan is to load our Four Wheel Camper into it and start driving to Argentina then back come October. 8k goes a long way on that trip. Which rig which you rather have and trust? Max payload is 2900.
I'd say 2011 XL. More payload, less options to break + e-Locker. If you want cruise (I would for long highway drives) maybe there is someone that can install it after market?
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Cruise control is a plug and play, as is most features on all 2011+ superduties
And everything should be doable without a dealer, using ForScan

All you need is the correct switch panel for the steering wheel, and to turn the feature on using ForScan
 

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