3rd Gen 4Runner Roof Racks..

TBS

Observer
I am tossing around the idea of building a rack for my 96 runner and was just looking to get some feed back or even get everyone in on a little brain storming.

I have notices that almost everyone is running these half racks simply because the factory rack only covers about half of the roof area and its the most simple way to mount a basket. Its been bugging me since I got the truck just becasue i wanted to be able to use the whole roof area if im going to put one up there. SO, Here are my thoughts....

I have the ability to make my own basket so i was thinking of just building one about the same size as most you can buy (IE - Yakima) But i would like to also have a fairing of a sort to follow the slope of the windshield and decrease wind drag. This is when i saw an xterra and it hit me. Extend some 1" tube from the top tube of the basket and kick it down and out so I can integrate the fairing and also have another small basket setting between the tubes.

Here is were i need help though. MOUNTING. I saw that yakima offers the Qtowers for non factory rack mounting in the door jams. I was wondering if any of you guys had some close ups of the mounting of your racks...all shapes and sizes so maybe I can finish up this idea and start building.
 

jeffryscott

2006 Rally Course Champion: Expedition Trophy
I have 72-inch rails on my 3rd gen which I used to replace the factory rails. This gives me access to the whole roof. They cost 30 or 40 bucks here: http://www.prolineracks.com/proline-roof-end-track-slats.html Have four Yakima towers attached, but want to go with something like this from Sierra Expeditions: http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=868

Been on two years and work great. Have had roof tent mounted when I'm out and about and even driving through the Expedition Trophy sand course, everything held tight. I have a 2x4 "basket" up in front of the tent for extra stowage if needed and have thought of making a storage box with fairing until I can afford to do the Baja rack.
 

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MontanaBBQ

Observer
I have 72-inch rails on my 3rd gen which I used to replace the factory rails. This gives me access to the whole roof. They cost 30 or 40 bucks here: http://www.prolineracks.com/proline-roof-end-track-slats.html QUOTE]

Are your 72" rails installed with sheet metal screws? I've previously mounted Yakima rails on a fiberglass topper, but they had to be through bolted using nuts/washers on the underside.

I am currently running 2 or 3 Yakima bars on my '98 4Runner - 1st bar over the front doors using Yakima Q-towers, 2nd and 3rd bars mounted to the factory rails using Yakima Control towers and Landing Pads. I carry a couple of boats on occasion, so the long front to rear bar spread is nice. I always remove the front bar unless I'm carrying the boats because the Q-towers smash the door seals and rub the paint. I do use a Yakima fairing on the front bar - it seems to help reduce wind noise a tiny bit.

I think these 72" rails look like the perfect setup - especially if they can be installed without disturbing the headliner.

Yakima bars.JPG
Thanks!

Doug B.
 

TBS

Observer
Yes I am on ultimate yota also, just recently got on over there. aka texasammi on alot of other boards. Is this Tearron?

Also, I second the question on the mounting of the 72" rails along with sealing/leaks?

EDIT: I fallowed the link for instructions and appearently they provide "self sealing screws", looks like a sheetmetal screw....
 
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FurthurOnTheFly

Glamping Society
Some folks have taken the FJ Cruiser Baja Rack and modified them to fit the 3rd gens. I thought about this as well, but I am enjoying getting back to having a sunroof too much and I don't want it covered. I'm working with Sergio to get something fabbed up and hopefully if it works out he will add it to the list of racks available for sale.
 

ttora4runner

Expedition Leader
Yes I am on ultimate yota also, just recently got on over there. aka texasammi on alot of other boards. Is this Tearron?

Also, I second the question on the mounting of the 72" rails along with sealing/leaks?

EDIT: I fallowed the link for instructions and appearently they provide "self sealing screws", looks like a sheetmetal screw....

Yep. It's me.

I'd be worried as well about using those screws. I'd think that under enough stress that they would tear out and still leak regardless.

I'd think using Thule or Yakima load bars would be your best bet. They can also be removed. If needs be.
 
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TBS

Observer
Those are my thoughts as well. I'm just cheap and dont want to dish out the dough, esspecially when i have the skills to build my own. I was thinking about maybe just buying the towers if a cant come up with something on my own.
 

jeffryscott

2006 Rally Course Champion: Expedition Trophy
Yes I am on ultimate yota also, just recently got on over there. aka texasammi on alot of other boards. Is this Tearron?

Also, I second the question on the mounting of the 72" rails along with sealing/leaks?

EDIT: I fallowed the link for instructions and appearently they provide "self sealing screws", looks like a sheetmetal screw....

I didn't use the self-sealing screws, but drilled and put in riv-nuts or something similar so they use the same mounting bolt as the stock setup. As mentioned, I've put it through its paces with an RTT on top and it's been very stable and leak free in two years.
 

cryan

New member
Question...I am looking to install a set of the longer Proline tracks. Did you use the existing holes in the rack plus a few extras or did you use all new? Proline said that they can send the tracks with no holes so I can drill them myself to match.
 

cryan

New member
I ended up going this route and am thrilled with it. I used the existing threads for the factory rack and then put two additional of the supplied sheet metal screws on each side in the front. This is way better setup than going with the factory rack plus a q-tower when you need a longer setup.


photo(1).jpg
 

CYi5

Explorer
I ended up going this route and am thrilled with it. I used the existing threads for the factory rack and then put two additional of the supplied sheet metal screws on each side in the front. This is way better setup than going with the factory rack plus a q-tower when you need a longer setup.

You don't have the sunroof correct? I was looking at doing this awhile back, but the new holes to be drilled were super close to the sunroof.
 

cryan

New member
Correct CYi5...no Sunroof. If I had a sunroof, I probably would have gone Q-tower up front. I wanted the length to be able to get the long Thule Box up there for hauling skis without it getting in the way of the rear hatch.
 

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