50W Solar Panel

FosterWV

Baller On A Budget
Tried searching couldn't find anything on 50W panels.....

I have a small trailer w a RTT, no fridge/no plans for a fridge, just basic led lights and a fan that runs all night. The battery lasts pretty good 2-3 days but to feel more comfortable and maintain the battery I thought a small 50W panel would be all I needed? Plus I'm limited on space so it fits better too. Thoughts?
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
You may find a 50w panel disappointing as it is so small. Bit like trying to weld by holding a match to steel - the concept is right but you need a bit more.

100w generally produces about 5A in full sun.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
You should actually measure the average AH per 24-hours draw of your consumers.

Figure maybe 5AH per day from a single 50W panel, varies by latitude, weather, tilting or flat etc.

That fan likely uses more.
 

FosterWV

Baller On A Budget
Thanks for the quick replies, figuring draw and amps etc I'm still learning.

I might try and find a way to store a 100W panel inside somewhere.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Start with mounting whatever you can fit.

They make folding portable panels if you need more, just not as convenient.
 

DLTooley

Observer
I started with a 50 watt, mostly just ran my CPAP. Check the numbers on your fan, but I think you'll be okay. I've since upgraded to a 100 watt and the 50 gets set out as a semi-portable when needed. The fridge is nice.

At some point you'll want to get some sort of way to measure actual amps, charging and load. An ammeter will do it, but the Victron MPPT charger has it built in so it is reading, and logging, all the time.
 

broncobowsher

Adventurer
50W is plenty. I run my ARB fridge off a 70W panel. Mounted flat (no aiming). Often parked under shade trees. I am only using a PWM charge controller, so I am getting less than 50W of usable power. If I needed more power a MPPT charge controller will bring me back to full output. Couple little fans and LED lights, not a big deal. When I first calculated mine I figured a 100W panel would be correct. Packaging limited me to a 70W. After 6 years of running it, 70W is just fine. Math says it shouldn't be, reality says it is.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
That's likely not often getting back to 100% Full, except maybe in occasional optimum weather.

I would usually go 200W for a fridge to be consistent.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
I don't have any solar installed yet, but am planning it. It is my understanding that a PWM controller is plenty for a small array (100W) and that an MPPT is marginally better, but not worth the extra cost unless you are running more panels. Comments?
 

john61ct

Adventurer
If you consider $80 compared to $20-40 a big saving worth giving up 15-20% output and full adjustability, then stick to the cheap stuff.

Might even have a MPPT label on it.
 

broncobowsher

Adventurer
MPPT milks every possible watt out of a panel. Running large arrays it makes sense a 20% gain is like adding a couple extra panels. Small systems it is usually just more cost effective just to get a panel that is 20% larger and run a cheaper PWM controller. The exception is if you are package limited to a smaller panel, in which case you can't just fudge it with a little larger panel. Using good stuff, a MPPT controller is much more expensive than a PWM. 2-3x more. Of course there are cheap products out there. Some even know to claim MPPT even though they are only PWM because they can get more money. Offshore marketing is a bunch of liars most of the time.

I run a little sunkeeper SK6 on my panel. They are one of the few that will publish the dark power, how much does the controller take from the battery at night when there is no sun. Most won't publish this, and if they do it is often quite a bit. If you have a huge battery bank that is no big deal. But running a single battery it can matter. You could find yourself in the morning with a low battery that was run down by the charge controller that should have been keeping it charged. The sunkeeper is less than 2mA and some that did publish numbers were over 100mA nighttime consumption.

As far as the comment that I need 200W of panel to run the fridge, you must have missed that my 70W panel has been doing great for about 6 years now. And the fridge gets a workout, I live in AZ. I can't keep stuff frozen overnight, but cold it will. That is why I said I run a fridge and not a freezer. Well I have left it on freeze overnight, once, and it stayed frozen, but a single battery isn't enough to run that. So it is a pointless exercise in battery abuse. And sunshine came to the rescue in the morning.

For a single battery system, 50~75W should be plenty. If you are not pulling juice during the day all that goes into a charge.
 

FosterWV

Baller On A Budget
Great info, I didn't even know there were different controllers MPPT or PWM guess I needed to do more homework.

Hopefully the 50W Renogy panel will work because the size it would fit perfect.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
As far as the comment that I need 200W of panel to run the fridge, you must have missed that my 70W panel has been doing great for about 6 years now.
Is that stationary full time living off grid, never any other source of charging?

You may have missed that my comment was wrt getting the bank back to 100% Full. Without an ammeter and/or accurate SoC BM, no way to know.

Your setup may be "working fine" for your usage pattern, in the sense that you are (usually) replacing (most of) the AH consumed by the fridge each day.

But that doesn't mean the batt isn't PSOC that whole time, in between its getting recharged from other sources.

Not even touching on its lowest SoC point per trip.

I concede many (most) people don't care about such levels of detail, as long as their perception is "it works".

And I'm not saying you need to change anything, it's your rig do what you like.

But for those spending long periods of grid, with expensive banks they want to coddle, there are more precise benchmarks to measure and meet.
 

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