7 Amazing Days On KLR's In Chile!

Several months ago my friend Daniel (Zolo on this forum) posted on Facebook about starting a motorcycle touring company in Chile. Then a couple weeks later he asked friends for help in getting the bikes broken in and testing some of the routes. Fortunately I have an amazing wife that immediately said "go for it" and also had a little money set aside for my van to pay for airfare. After talking to Daniel and looking at funds I was able to commit.


So on the evening of September 20th, three us of took a non stop Delta flight from Atlanta to Sanitago, Chile. The 9 1/2 hr flight in the middle seat was not fun for a guy 6'6" like myself but the excitement of the trip powered me through it. Because of a SNAFU in scheduling we had a 10 hr layover in Santiago before taking the domestic flight down to Puerto Montt. The layover allowed us to take a couple hours out in town to explore the capital of Chile. We hired a cab for 4 hrs to drive us around and explore. Santiago is a HUGE city with a population of around 6 million.


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The first culture shock for me was the lack of English speakers or signs. Coming from the southeast where a lot of signs are bilingual and visiting Mexico where some English is known it was a big surprise. There are not a ton of gringos visiting this far south and hence no need for English. I had taken some Spanish in high school 20 years ago and studied on Fluenz but had not prepared enough.

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Tallest building in South America!

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We ate an amazing lunch in the fish market. I had a pisco sour, seafood paella, and a first of many Agua Con Gas (soda water but sounds much cooler in Spanish!).

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After lunch we toured two high parks in the middle of the city. The first had an old missionary and statue on top. It was under renovation but still quite nice. Hiking and biking seemed very popular among the locals here. The second park was an old fort that wrapped around a mountain. It was cool to explore an old area with so much history right in the middle of modern city. We were limited for time so could not explore long.

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After driving around a little more we were back to the airport to catch our domestic flight to Puerto Montt. We flew Sky Airlines from Santiago to Puerto Montt and Air Latam on the way back. Of the two I would recommend Latam (LAM) as the planes were nicer and service was better for the same price flight.


An hour and half later on another cramped flight we landed in a chilly Puerto Montt. Daniel met us at the airport and after collecting our bags we were off to his house outside Puerto Varas to get some sleep. Due to the mess up in flights it had taken us over 26 hrs to get there. Daniel's wife, Paula, had some amazing homemade empanadas ready for us when we arrived. After a quick meal and catching up I hit the sack for some much needed rest. I awoke 8 hours later in the same position I fell asleep in to a beautiful chilly Chile morning. We had arrived after dark the night before so this was my first chance to see the surrounding landscape. I was not disappointed! This is the view of the volcano Calbuco out of the shower window.

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Not too bad, eh?

Will post more once I can get these pictures figured out.
 
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After a great breakfast, we set up the brand new KLR's with Mosko Moto panniers. Daniel had bought four of these KLR's for his trips and part of the reason we were down here was to help break in the bikes according to Kawasaki spec. This meant keeping the bikes under 4000 rpm the first 600 miles and then under 6000 rpm the 400 miles after that. I bike chose #46 (for Valentino Rossi) and it had a whopping 0.7 miles on it! I adjusted the bars and levers and was surprised to find my lanky self fit pretty well on the KLR.

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Once the bikes were set up and we had some Go Pros mounted we set out on the first shake down ride. It was a short ride! The two newest bikes had not been ridden and had very little fuel so we only made it a couple of miles before running out.

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After a quick siphon of the other two bikes we were able to make it to the gas station. One of the guys did some quick conversions from Chilean Pesos to USD and said "wow, fuel is pretty cheap". Daniel quickly burst his bubble by telling him that it is sold by the liter and not the gallon! Not so cheap after all!

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We spent the rest of the afternoon riding around the area taking photos and getting a feel for the bikes. Daniel and Curt have plenty of miles on motorcycle after multiple trips from Atlanta to Alaska. Tony had MX experience and a good bit of road riding on buddies borrowed bikes. I have had dirtbikes for years but very little experience on the road. I probably doubled my road miles on this trip.

Despite being the only one to have never laid the bike over Tony managed to get his KLR stuck several times. This time I made sure to get a photo before helping!

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The KLR impressed me with the torquey power (even when keeping it under 4000 rpm), open cockpit, and surprisingly nimble feel. He hopes to add some bigger bikes to the stable down the road.


Wrapping up the day and practicing my Spanish at the Coffee Shop over looking Lake Llanquihue in Puerta Varas.

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zolo

Explorer
Rio Petrohue flowing into the Reloncaví Estuary in the Los Lagos region of Chile..
 

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Thanks for the compliment Scott!


Sorry all for the delay! Updated the initial two posts.


The second day of riding was supposed to be the first test of a loop Daniel wanted to offer clients for Moto Patagonia. It involved riding out to the falls at Petrohue, up to Lagos Todos Dos Santos, then back around to ride up the volcano Osorno before finally circling Lake Llanquihue with a side trip to Lago Rupanco. A borrowed map from his website gives a better visual.


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This day was one of my favorites of the trip! The weather was completely clear and a little warmer than the previous day in which I was constantly cool when on the road.

Our first stop was the Saltos de Petrohue. This place was stunning! The amazing falls with its massive amount of water flowing over the edge in the foreground did its best to distract from the brilliant volcano Osorno in the background. It was difficult to capture it all in. Photos definitely don't do it justice!


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After the falls we rode up to the source of all of that water; Lagos Todos Dos Santos. I somehow managed to not get any pictures of this little area. It was a cool little area at the end of a dead end road at the base of the Andes. The far side of the lake had numerous homes that were serviced exclusively by boat coming from this tiny dock area. The water was crystal clear but looked frigid!


Next up was the twisty road up Osorno. Unfortunately for us Chile has annoying slow drivers that refuse to pull over and choose to ruin the fun for everyone. We took a very calm 25-35mph up the volcano. During the winter the slop is popular among skiers and even has a ski lift. The snow line was still low enough to prevent us from getting anywhere close to this area.

I managed to ride several miles back down the volcano with the engine off and in neutral while just enjoying the beautiful scene of the lake in front of me with only the noise from the wind. It was a great day to be on a motorcycle!

The trip over to Lago Rupanco was a mix of pavement, gravel, and dirt riding by the lake and then open farm land. We managed to loose a Go Pro on a rough section of rode. I got lucky riding back and happened to find it. I dropped the bike dismounting to get it and had my one and only "get off" of the trip. I personally think it shouldn't count!


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The last leg of the road to Lago Rupanco was new and rough! I got to stretch the legs of the KLR and was impressed of how well it handled the rough doubletrack. I really enjoyed myself riding this more technical stuff on a bigger bike. Being a "tall glass of water" as I was recently told, I have always been more comfortable standing up on a motorcycle. The terrain here suited it well.

As I said, the road to the end of the lake was very new and the handful of houses and small farms tucked into the foothills of the Andes were only serviced by boat until very recently. This little beach area was the end of the road and served as our lunch spot (and the spot where Tony managed to get stuck AGAIN! lol). I munched on fancy cheese, jamon, and some sort of Chilean bread while sipping on my highly agitated agua con gas and enjoying this great view. I could definitely have a house right on this beach with this view!

Away from the beach,

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And on the beach facing the lake,

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danlehombre

New member
Just stumbled on these images. Looks like an awesome adventure. Thanks for sharing. Makes me miss the 3rd world adventure riding. I'll have to settle with the occasional beautiful winter day in CO to ride my KLR for now.
 

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