97 E350 Crestline Ambo Build/Mod
- Thread starter Bikersmurf
- Start date
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
It is too bad... 
One of these days I'll paint the rims and something will show. For now, the frame and other bits are higher up the list.
One of these days I'll paint the rims and something will show. For now, the frame and other bits are higher up the list.
flightcancled
Explorer
You lucky duck! Those will be good for years or until you swap a d60 up there!
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
I figure the last set likely had 335,000 km on them... I shouldn't need to worry about front end components for a while. It has tightened things up. I'll need to get something more than a yardstick alignment... Likely wait till I've got tires up front that aren't cheap, crappy tires that are cupped and worn funny.
If your front end is trashed, I'd highly recommend replacing the whole package this way with parts salvaged from someone's 4WD recycle pile
(or anywhere else you can find them).
Last edited:
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
A few weeks back, the old Ambo started lurching when the brakes were even lightly applied. Timing couldn't have been worse. We were in the process of moving our office, so after a quick inspection, I determined that I could limp it for a couple more days till the move was finished.
It was a week or so before I found the time to pull the rear wheels and inspect the rear brakes. The rear brakes, or what was left of them, were toast. I ordered in some parts, and forked over a large pile of coin, and now the rear brakes have been replaced. The list included new: Drums, Cylinders, Shoes, Hardware, Brake lines, and an E-brake cable. All the replaced parts were worn out, rusty, leaking, sticking, or rusted away.
It's good to know that the front brakes are all new as are the rears. The brakes are working well again. I am, however, looking forward to seeing how much better they work after the +/- 1000 lbs of extra cargo in the back to the Ambo is unloaded. I feel like they are working better than they've worked since I bought it, and am curious to see what happens if I step on the brakes and they only have 8500 lbs to bring to a halt.
It was a week or so before I found the time to pull the rear wheels and inspect the rear brakes. The rear brakes, or what was left of them, were toast. I ordered in some parts, and forked over a large pile of coin, and now the rear brakes have been replaced. The list included new: Drums, Cylinders, Shoes, Hardware, Brake lines, and an E-brake cable. All the replaced parts were worn out, rusty, leaking, sticking, or rusted away.
It's good to know that the front brakes are all new as are the rears. The brakes are working well again. I am, however, looking forward to seeing how much better they work after the +/- 1000 lbs of extra cargo in the back to the Ambo is unloaded. I feel like they are working better than they've worked since I bought it, and am curious to see what happens if I step on the brakes and they only have 8500 lbs to bring to a halt.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
DANA 70 LSD (by spec) 4.10 Gears, Dually axle
Drained the rear diff, did a quick visual of what is visible... Very little.
Drained the rear diff, did a quick visual of what is visible... Very little.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Cleaned and painted cover, added 3.5 liters GL5 gear lube and 4oz LSD Friction modifier. :Wow1: What a difference... if in doubt, change your diff fluid, i'm very shocked by how much smoother it rolls down the road, and around corners when parking... the oil wasn't even that black...
It now drives more like a luxury vehicle than an old work truck.
It now drives more like a luxury vehicle than an old work truck.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/deabill.aspx
The Expert DanaMATE.Com Contact Us Search
Enter Bill of Material Number or use the drop downs below.
Bill of Material #:
605951-2
Search by BOM
Select a Make: Select Year: Select Model and Model #:
FORD Model 70/267 REAR 1997 - E-350 CHASSIS - DRW - 70U W/ABS
Bill of Material Diff. Type Ratio Ring and Pinion Kit Differential Assy Kit Differential Case Kit Diff Inner Parts Kit Right Hand Shaft Assembly Left Hand Shaft Assembly OverHaul Kit Bearing Installation Kit
605951-2 P/L 4.10 708126-3 707277-1X 707146-1X 2021290 43811-4 43811-7 2017516 2017528
The Expert DanaMATE.Com Contact Us Search
Enter Bill of Material Number or use the drop downs below.
Bill of Material #:
605951-2
Search by BOM
Select a Make: Select Year: Select Model and Model #:
FORD Model 70/267 REAR 1997 - E-350 CHASSIS - DRW - 70U W/ABS
Bill of Material Diff. Type Ratio Ring and Pinion Kit Differential Assy Kit Differential Case Kit Diff Inner Parts Kit Right Hand Shaft Assembly Left Hand Shaft Assembly OverHaul Kit Bearing Installation Kit
605951-2 P/L 4.10 708126-3 707277-1X 707146-1X 2021290 43811-4 43811-7 2017516 2017528
IdaSHO
IDACAMPER
Cleaned and painted cover, added 3.5 liters GL5 gear lube and 4oz LSD Friction modifier. :Wow1: What a difference... if in doubt, change your diff fluid, i'm very shocked by how much smoother it rolls down the road, and around corners when parking... the oil wasn't even that black...
It now drives more like a luxury vehicle than an old work truck.
Yep, the OEM real LSD units are pretty particular about fluid.
Chances are good that the fluid you removed wasnt even the correct fluid, and did not have the friction modifier.
Without the friction modifier the clutches do not slip as consistently, and can make for one "active" rear end, creating quite a bit of chatter and not-smooth engagement and disengagement of the clutches.
I simply run a good synthetic. Good synthetics have the friction modifier additive built into them.
I also shim the clutches to run a bit tighter that stock, making them a touch more useful.
What he said. Back when I was a Jeep newbie the first one I bought was a 1979 Quadratrac. Works pretty much just like an LSD, except in the transfer case. I'm not sure if the fluid was wrong or had never been changed but man the first time that transfer case let go I thought I'd driven over an IED. Scared the livin bejeezus out of me. Got that sorted real quick.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
The only time I'd observed chatter was in parking lot tight maneuvers. But, I suspect it didn't have all the modifiers or was just past its useful life.
The shocking thing was just how much smoother it drives now... it was almost like it was running dry before (but it was at 100% capacity)
The shocking thing was just how much smoother it drives now... it was almost like it was running dry before (but it was at 100% capacity)
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Found that the cross-member that supports the Rad was broken into 3 pieces.
and the starter wire had all the insulation melted off.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
The starter looked new when I got the rig, so I believe the wiring has been melted for a long time. I pulled the Starter wire from my parts pile so It's as good as new again.
The Cross-member is welded back together and ready to go back in.
@Abitibi Thanks for the Fender Flair, It's nice to have a spare that matches the original... now to decide if I pull the new one I bought off so the flairs natch or leave well enough alone.
The Cross-member is welded back together and ready to go back in.
@Abitibi Thanks for the Fender Flair, It's nice to have a spare that matches the original... now to decide if I pull the new one I bought off so the flairs natch or leave well enough alone.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
I've swapped in newer A/C hardlines, and the fittings are in at the repair shop... shouldn't be long before the A/C is working again.