97 F-350 CCLB build:

[redthies]

Yeah, my current rig is everything you described, plus the few things you wanted to change. 98 12 valve NV4500 with Southbend, 4"MBRP, ATS 3pce manifold, BD exhaust brake, BD steering brace, 60lb valve springs, A1 head studs, 2" levelling kit with Firestone bags, modded P7100 pump, BHAF, 1000 watt Rockford Fosgate system and the list goes on... I was super lucky to get it, let alone for the price I paid. All that said, and I still sometimes think about a brand new truck. Annnd, then I wake up

 

[Seabass]

Yeah, my current rig is everything you described, plus the few things you wanted to change. 98 12 valve NV4500 with Southbend, 4"MBRP, ATS 3pce manifold, BD exhaust brake, BD steering brace, 60lb valve springs, A1 head studs, 2" levelling kit with Firestone bags, modded P7100 pump, BHAF, 1000 watt Rockford Fosgate system and the list goes on... I was super lucky to get it, let alone for the price I paid. All that said, and I still sometimes think about a brand new truck. Annnd, then I wake up

Me too! Lot of money for one of those. It's ok- I find satisfaction in working on what I drive. My father owns an 08 F-250 with a 6.4. I can't work on it. Good job with what you've done so far. For today- gotta get the mounting figured out on the camper. So off to tractor supply for eye bolts, chain,and buckles, I think I'm even going to rig up some springs to help out with the flex. Till we meet again!


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[Regcabguy]

My '53 cracked @ 16K on the '98.5. I think that's the record. I got a, you guessed it,another 53. I saw my old truck in Craigslist so it's still lives with a Callen on top. When the Dodge's went with rear discs in 2001.5 and the Superduty's in 1999 those big trucks finally had some stopping power.
The Dodge frames were way stiffer during the 2nd gen era and continue to have that attribute to this day.

 

[Seabass]

Ok. So I've began messing with the camper. Today I got it chained to the bed. I just went the simple rout and bought four forged eye bolts in 1/2" size. I drilled holes at each corner making sure to hit a cross brace on the front and adding steel plating for the rear since the cross brace didn't line up well. Over all I'm pleased. I hand tightened each turn buckle till good and snug and stopped. I'm surprised how secure the camper seems on the stall mats yet how it still seems to give- yes I twisted the truck in the yard to see what it looked like. I forgot to take any pics- next time. I do have one of the completed anchor on the rear

so next I found a battery that was good and charged and set out to hook it up. On the front corner of the camper on the driver side is a plug. It's a four post round. It runs down to a pair of alligator clips. One red and one black. I figured this was how we supplied 12 v to the camper. We'll I guess I'm stupid and this ain't it- or something isn't working. I got nothing. No interior lights - no porch light. Suggestions? The inverter didn't do anything either. It had three positions. On- off- and 12v. I tried them all. But- with the gas on the furnace does work! I ran out of light and quit. Tomorrow I want to try the cook stove and the fridge. I had big plans of leaning on the battery and solar for most of my power needs. I am not planning on hooking in to the trucks electrical. Guys- I've just got a lot to learn. Today it became evident how green I am. As always- thanks for all of your input!


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[Seabass]

Oh- the camper also has running lights. How in the world do they hook up. And for a little clarity: the plug on the front of the camper- the four round, I have a pig tail that came with the camper that plugs into it and the pigtail has the alligator clips. Thanks again in advance.


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[Regcabguy]

I'd seriously consider the Happijac or Tork Lift setups. They have some cushion to them. Those turnbuckles look like they'd strip out pretty easily.

 

[Seabass]

I'd seriously consider the Happijac or Tork Lift setups. They have some cushion to them. Those turnbuckles look like they'd strip out pretty easily.

I suspect you are right. They are aluminum. Like I said earlier- I'm really green. With the hippijac turnbuckles do you think I could use the eye bolts I've already installed? The camper has a wooden frame- looks to me that it wouldn't be too hard to destroy the camper. So I can see why the buckles need to give. I was kinda hoping that if something gave it would be the turnbuckle. The camper came with a pile of em. So I can strip out a few and keep replacing them. They aren't all the same. I've looked at so many posts on the portal that I'm going cross eyed. I've read everything from frame mounted is the only way to go- to guys putting springs between the eye bolts and turn buckles- to set ups like mine, I've seen the hippijac and the Tork lift. I've actually got a set of the stake pocket mounts- but I didn't like them. I use a topper and don't want something to take off the truck every time I remove the camper. I'm flustered. I have a 1300 lb camper that I can close the tailgate on sitting on a soft horse stall mat and I don't know what to do. Saying that I realize that you have offered up two possibilities. Thank you.


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[Seabass]

You know what- I don't know that my camper has a wooden frame. I don't know why I wrote that. I assume it does- but I'm not sure. Does it really matter? Probably not for me. This is the camper that I have. I can't afford any more expense- I looked for a year to find this one. I felt lucky to get it. Anyway- I'm just trying to to the best I can on a limited budget. Thanks


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[surlydiesel]

I think your tie downs should be fine. The bed and camper will flex together. I don't see you ripping it apart. Also if you only hand tightened the tie downs, you prob have some give. I can't help on the battery front. There should be a plug on the front driver's side of the camper that you would tie into your parking lights to illuminate the camper. Looking good!!!
-jorge


01 Reg Cab Tacoma

 

[UHAULER]

I wouldn't stress out too much. On my Northstar camper I used torklift in the front and happijack bumper mount on the back. I left the rears a little loose. With the rubber mats and the tailgate up I don't think I would worry too much.

 

[redthies]

Surly and Uhauler are on the right track. Unless you are going crazy off road, the bed and camper will flex together. It's not like the camper is going to fall out the back with your gate up! Also, I use similar aluminum turnbuckles on my camper (you've seen how huge that thing is) and my stepfather used the same system on all his campers for 40 years of exploring. Fastguns and Happyjac tiedowns are great, but I'm not sure they're worth all the money. If somebody offered me a set for a reasonable price, I'd give them a go, but I'm not putting them at the top of the list.

 

[Seabass]

Thanks guys! I can rock that topper pretty good by hand with no tie downs. I'm thinking I'm going to try what I got. Especially since I'm carrying a couple extra turnbuckles. I'll check them at the end of each days travels and I think I'll be ok. I'm not going to crazy off road anyway because the truck is my best. I don't want to destroy it unnecessarily. But- it isn't confined to gravel roads and pavement either. But anything rough or very severe I'll be traversing very slowly and with great care. As always- thanks for the input.


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[Seabass]

Ok- so today I ran an extension cord over to the camper and plugged it up. Magic! The converter started humming- every light began to work and I'm pretty sure the fridge began to cool. This was very exciting- since the battery hookup got me nothing. I'm fairly certain I have a broken wire on my pigtail that is preventing current from making it to the camper from the battery. I also found the owners manual and it has a ton of useful info in it- including a wiring diagram! The house battery will work now! My next question for everyone- can I put some cross bars on top of the camper to carry two fishing kayaks? I always put a set of Yakima bars on my toppers- I love my yaks! Im unsure about drilling through the roof from the top- but perhaps plates running vertical bolted through the side (same place the buckles are) to carry the bars? This would limit the chance for a leak? I've seen pics throughout the site where campers had them but I haven't ran across any builds talking about them. I'm sure they are here- but dang there's a lot of threads to see!


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[Seabass]

Today it rained here on the farm - so that meant some free time! After doing the basic farm stuff I found the camper ready and waiting. After some study I figured out that I had a ground issue with my house battery. A quick snip and splice and everything started working- we'll I didn't try the fridge. I'll do that one day when I have lots of time. Next I turned my attention to a door that was missing for my propane tank.

I found a piece of 2'x2' diamond tread aluminum and did some pretty tight measuring and got out my trusty saws-all. I was pleased with the fit of the door and decided it needed a lock. I can just see some punk kid turning off my gas on one of the church youth camping trips we regularly attend. So I drilled a hole and added a toolbox lock and it worked out pretty good. Progress is slow- but the farm work doesn't usually allow much time to do much major. But I keep digging- I have a 4 day trip to lake Barkley in a few weeks and want it working smooth. I need to figure out so e form of air conditioning before then too. In the meantime I'm gonna take it out on the farm a night or two and camp with the cows to try it out. I'd hate to be far from home and never tried this thing out. And for fun- and because who doesn't like pictures- here's some of the door.

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[pappawheely]

Looks good. I was thinking you needed a door on that. Out of sight, out of mind. You don't need theft or tampering to your propane tank.:ar15: