A different kind of trailer build: 20' enclosed "support trailer"
- Thread starter orangeTJ
- Start date
This photo shows why it was not feasible to mark the light locations based on measuring the ceiling panels when they weren't installed. The don't line up:
I temporarily installed each panel, then used a carpenter's square aligned with the roof framing to make my marks for each light location. This was used to determine the distance from the wall.
Then I used a metal ruler to measure the distance between each light, which is 32".
Then I drew a line and marked the center of the light, and 1" out from the center for the mounting holes.
The ceiling project has been really time consuming. One of the panels had a plethora of lights in it, which was the second panel from the back, so I had to have an assistant hold the panel in place, while I connected the wires. We did that on Monday.
Today's project has been finish the ceiling and put away all my tools and wiring supplies, then clean up inside. There was a horrendous mess on the floor, even though I'd already vacuumed the floor when I worked on it about a week and a half ago.
I made a list minute decision this morning to attend a Dual Sport motorcycle event, so that was why I focused my efforts on getting the inside cleaned up today.
Here's a photo with my DR-Z400 ready to go tomorrow.... I loaded it up about 9pm tonight
I temporarily installed each panel, then used a carpenter's square aligned with the roof framing to make my marks for each light location. This was used to determine the distance from the wall.
Then I used a metal ruler to measure the distance between each light, which is 32".
Then I drew a line and marked the center of the light, and 1" out from the center for the mounting holes.
The ceiling project has been really time consuming. One of the panels had a plethora of lights in it, which was the second panel from the back, so I had to have an assistant hold the panel in place, while I connected the wires. We did that on Monday.
Today's project has been finish the ceiling and put away all my tools and wiring supplies, then clean up inside. There was a horrendous mess on the floor, even though I'd already vacuumed the floor when I worked on it about a week and a half ago.
I made a list minute decision this morning to attend a Dual Sport motorcycle event, so that was why I focused my efforts on getting the inside cleaned up today.
Here's a photo with my DR-Z400 ready to go tomorrow.... I loaded it up about 9pm tonight
Last edited:
I've decided to add an audio system, so I'm doing some speaker wiring prior to buttoning up the ceiling trim. I won't get the audio installed until later this summer - too many other things have a higher priority.
Speaker wire routing:
Through a hole in the wall inside of the front cabinet:
Dangling for now, where the door spring is housed.
Speaker wire routing:
Through a hole in the wall inside of the front cabinet:
Dangling for now, where the door spring is housed.
Time for a hard start capacitor for the roof A/C.
A hard start capacitor allows the compressor to start better when running the A/C from smaller generators. They are discussed quite heavily on RV forums.
With the trailer being used as a mobile showroom at times, I want the ability to more reliably run the roof A/C from my pair of Honda EU2000i gens so I don't bake while in the trailer.
I'm nearing completion of getting the trailer mods finalized for the upcoming NW Overland Rally
It's housed in a little enclosure on the right side:
I removed it:
Replace with a new one:
A hard start capacitor allows the compressor to start better when running the A/C from smaller generators. They are discussed quite heavily on RV forums.
With the trailer being used as a mobile showroom at times, I want the ability to more reliably run the roof A/C from my pair of Honda EU2000i gens so I don't bake while in the trailer.
I'm nearing completion of getting the trailer mods finalized for the upcoming NW Overland Rally
It's housed in a little enclosure on the right side:
I removed it:
Replace with a new one:
Last edited:
The piece of plywood shown is lays in the bottom of the cabinet. It's tilted up here.
It's soaked with oil from the previous owner storing partial open bottles of motor oil.
It stinks.
I may try to replace it, but doing so requires a trick method of cutting it up so I can remove it. It was in the cabinet assembly when the cabinet unit was bolted to the wall. It's one long piece, so it has to be made smaller to get it out.
It's soaked with oil from the previous owner storing partial open bottles of motor oil.
It stinks.
I may try to replace it, but doing so requires a trick method of cutting it up so I can remove it. It was in the cabinet assembly when the cabinet unit was bolted to the wall. It's one long piece, so it has to be made smaller to get it out.
The plywood was easy to cut and remove. I rotated the wod towards me, which opened up a space between the wood and the top of the ceiling, then cut it vertically (top to bottom) with jig saw. I flipped the plywood 180 degrees and finished the cut. I cut it in to 3 pieces, which were small enough to slide out through the cabinet doors.
Cleaning the oil out of the bottom of the cabinet as another chore. I used 1 1/2 cans of brake cleaner, a putty knife and a bunch of blue shop towels. The oil was basically a coagulated goo that had to be softened with the brake cleaner, then scraped up with the putty knife.
I cut new plywood panels for the cabinets and installed them Monday. It's nice to open the cabinets and not smell that oil stench. The trailer is now ready for the NW Overland Rally! http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/133997-The-Official-2015-NW-Overland-Rally-Thread
Last edited:
The trailer was a big hit, and a cool place to visit (literally) at the NW Overland Rally. The hard start capacitor mods I did to trailer and camper air conditioners helped them start easier when being run on my pair of Honda EU 2000i generators. I ran the generators and the trailer A/C all day during the entire time of the show. It was scorching hot at the Rally.
Upcoming plans:
Remove the newly installed plywood base panels in the cabinet and paint them.
Finalize a method of attaching the gridwall display panels to the trailer wall without leaving unsightly holes in the walls
Install audio system (car stereo and speakers)
Install Link 10 battery monitor and also mount the inverter remote panel
Upcoming plans:
Remove the newly installed plywood base panels in the cabinet and paint them.
Finalize a method of attaching the gridwall display panels to the trailer wall without leaving unsightly holes in the walls
Install audio system (car stereo and speakers)
Install Link 10 battery monitor and also mount the inverter remote panel
Last edited:
Curtis in Texas
Adventurer
Nice attention to details.
I have a 17 foot V nose cargo trailer I've been threatening to do these upgrades to.
So I'm going to use your build as a motivator.
That and something to show the wife since she's got no imagination.
I have to have a visual picture for her to understand my plans.
I have a 17 foot V nose cargo trailer I've been threatening to do these upgrades to.
So I'm going to use your build as a motivator.
That and something to show the wife since she's got no imagination.
I have to have a visual picture for her to understand my plans.
TurtleTagger
New member
Nice trailer mods. I'm waiting for my 6x12 to be built so I can begin modifying it for my needs. I noticed that you had l track mounted on the floor of your trailer and changed it to e track. Why did you change it?