A few basics on trailer ideas - questions

Slice

New member
Well, I'm definitely a lightweight when it comes to trailer usage, but I have a few questions to ask as I'm considering a new trailer. The trailer I currently have is a 4x8 "dump" trailer. That is a straight tongue that goes to a "c beam" with a bolt through both and another bolt up towards the front to hold it from tipping. I've made a number of mods on it including a longer tongue in the hopes of making maneuvering easier when backing up. The original was probably designed for snowmobiles, atv's , the like. Currently, I have a "stick" framed box on it with a door at the rear. It's been hard to maintain, mostly to bad initial design and "school of hard knocks" to improve it. However, I think it's getting past it's usefulness and is almost at a point of needing a full re-build. The longer tongue was also because of problems with the rear light(s) getting broken if I went too tight a turn backing up.

So here's a few questions that should help me with decision making.

Toungs: Straight vs A frame. On a small trailer with 12" oc crossmembers, I'm guessing that the straight would be fine.
Is there a way to determine what the best overall length would be both for cornering while moving on the road and ease of maneuvering while backing up (that is to not have the trailer whip around so quickly)?

Would most people consider it overkill to use backup lights or warning beeper on a 5x8 trailer?

More on lighting: If I'm going to add my own lights, what's the best way to approach that as a DIY project and ensure keeping things dry. (I would assume that would include both gasket and some sort of sealer.) The trailer is aluminum faced 3/8" plywood. I also have a small breaker/disconnect box to mount for electrical needs and I'm thinking the same applies to that, or at least some type of sealer at the bolt points. The current trailer has the box on the outside, but I think putting it inside with a twist lock to connect between it and the cable would probably work well, and with the extra space inside (the nose) I can have a better place to hang the cable and possibly the spare tire. If you've followed this and have better ideas on how to do this I'd be really grateful. I will need 120v in the trailer for lighting and power for chargers for other equipment. If you've gotten this far, thanks so much for taking the time.:):)
 

jim65wagon

Well-known member
If the trailer is light weight when loaded the straight tongue will be fine.

Measure the tow vehicle from the receiver to the outside of the fender or bumper. This will be the minimum length for the tongue to allow you to jack-knife the trailer.

Back up lights are always good.
 

Nd4SpdSe

Adventurer, eh?
I got a straight tongue done on mine. I was told it's less stable. I don't have much trailer experience to compare, but it's just fine with all the towing I've done with it on the highway; a lot of Quebec-Ontario. I also measured to have the tongue long enough to that the trailer will be able to clear the truck when it's a 90 degree with the tow vehicle. It's great for creative parking or tight maneuvres. It actually hits the bumper and never touches the truck.

octmmf0.jpg


I hooked up the trailer lights cause they were there, but on the 7-pin has the line, and I had the spot, so why not, it helps complete the look, but it also helps for safety so they can see that your backing up, and adds some extra lights when reversing at night.

ruNDQWb.jpg
 

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