Advice on Shock Absorbers for Overland LJ

DesertDreaming

New member
We have been overlanding through the west in our 2005 LJ We carry a bit of gear and we also tow an overland trailer that is 800lb empty and 2000 lb fully loaded. We are usually right around our max GVWR for most trips, and occasionally a little over if we’re being honest.

We’ve had the vehicle just over a year now. The previous owners installed a 2.5” lift kit from OME on 31” tires. For the most part we like the setup. However we’ve been on the road a little while now and it’s clear that the shocks are worn out. They are the ARB Old Man Emu Nitrogen Sport shocks that came with the lift. The exact model is 600471 in the front and 60049L in the rear. I know that ARB makes a “light” and a “heavy” set, but unhelpfully they do not list which is which on their web site.

So it’s time to put a new set in and naturally with all the weight I want to get it right. I’m inclined to switch to a new band because I don’t like the way it drives now (even when empty) but maybe a fresh set will be better. Otherwise I’m thinking about Bilstein 5100s which I’ve heard some say they are good for heavy loads. I’d be willing to spend a little more, maybe up to $200 per corner if there is something else that would work better. Any advice is appreciated.
 

Fadeagray

Member
I had Bilstein 5100’s on my 2005 Rubicon LJ. It‘s a bit tail heavy and on a 4“ lift, 35’s and heavy beadlocks. The 5100’s performed well and lasted for 7 years and about 70k miles. What I did not like was the ride over washboard and small irregularities. It just felt harsh. I replaced them with 5160’s. The Jeep‘s ride is night and day better than the 5100’s. After 14 months I am still happy with the ride and performance of the 5160’s.
 

DesertDreaming

New member
I had Bilstein 5100’s on my 2005 Rubicon LJ. It‘s a bit tail heavy and on a 4“ lift, 35’s and heavy beadlocks. The 5100’s performed well and lasted for 7 years and about 70k miles. What I did not like was the ride over washboard and small irregularities. It just felt harsh. I replaced them with 5160’s. The Jeep‘s ride is night and day better than the 5100’s. After 14 months I am still happy with the ride and performance of the 5160’s.
So the ride is improved, but do you feel the 5160’s handle the weight just as well?
 

Fadeagray

Member
So the ride is improved, but do you feel the 5160’s handle the weight just as well?
The 5160’s handle the weight of my heavy tire and wheel package and tail heavy LJ better than the 5100’s. The 5160’s have less fade over washboard and seem to be well matched for the weight of my Jeep.

Just a thought, if weight is a problem, perhaps your springs are not up to the task. As far as dampening and rebound the 5160’s are superior.
 

Beowulf

Expedition Leader
On my 2006 LJ Rubicon with a manual, I continue to run the following set up over and over. I have ran this set up for 156k miles. I replaced everything around 60k and then again at 120k. It is stiff unweighted, but perfect fully kitted for a trip.

OME shock front - 60047
OME shock rear - 60049
OME spring front - 2934
OME spring rear - 2996
OME stabilizer - OMESD48

I also have the NT Degree shock shifters, Coil Relocator bracket and Tummy Tucker. The control arms are from Savvy. To add even more weight for factoring things, I have the 32 gallon Genright Safari tank, so I'm heavy at first with a full tank and all the gear.
 

DesertDreaming

New member
On my 2006 LJ Rubicon with a manual, I continue to run the following set up over and over. I have ran this set up for 156k miles. I replaced everything around 60k and then again at 120k. It is stiff unweighted, but perfect fully kitted for a trip.

OME shock front - 60047
OME shock rear - 60049
OME spring front - 2934
OME spring rear - 2996
OME stabilizer - OMESD48

I also have the NT Degree shock shifters, Coil Relocator bracket and Tummy Tucker. The control arms are from Savvy. To add even more weight for factoring things, I have the 32 gallon Genright Safari tank, so I'm heavy at first with a full tank and all the gear.
What size tires do you run in that setup? We currently have 31s on 15 inch wheels, but i’ll consider whether we can move up to 32s or 33s when this set of tires wears out, probably in 10k miles or so.
 

DesertDreaming

New member
At this point, it seems like the 5160’s are only available for a 4”+ lift, so they probably don’t even make them for my rig.

I am glad to have a positive review of OME, so if all else fails I can just replace what I have.

But my next question is, if I do go with the 5100s, on a 2.5 inch lift, well they don’t make one for 2.5. They make one for 0-2” and they make one for 3”. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to going down or up in this regard?
 

Beowulf

Expedition Leader
What size tires do you run in that setup? We currently have 31s on 15 inch wheels, but i’ll consider whether we can move up to 32s or 33s when this set of tires wears out, probably in 10k miles or so.
I’m running 255/85r16 Toyo MTs with the original AEV rims for the TJ.
 

Beowulf

Expedition Leader
At this point, it seems like the 5160’s are only available for a 4”+ lift, so they probably don’t even make them for my rig.

I am glad to have a positive review of OME, so if all else fails I can just replace what I have.

But my next question is, if I do go with the 5100s, on a 2.5 inch lift, well they don’t make one for 2.5. They make one for 0-2” and they make one for 3”. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to going down or up in this regard?
The only way to know for sure you be to cycle your wheel travel with the bump stop, spring, and shock. Measure the travel and and clearance issues you might have and then compare that useable travel to the compressed and elongated length of the shock.
 

1stDeuce

Explorer
You're in the same area that I am, where stock length shocks are too short, and lifted shocks are generally too long. OME makes a decent shock, and I think they've fixed the horrible valving that was original to the Nitorcharger Sport shocks as compared to the old hydro shocks. IIRC, OME springs are a bit softer than the stock LJ springs which means you need a bit stiffer damping in the shocks to control weight. They're still a bit higher rate than most other aftermarket springs, which is good... I have a set of Nitrocharger sport shocks and I felt that they were too stiff but I've since decided that they were probably not much different than the Bilstein's that I'm running now... (PM me if you'd like a good deal on them...)

The Bilstein 5100's that I'm running now were for a 2" lifted XJ application. I would agree that they're pretty harsh on abrupt bumps, as noted in posts above. That said, if I load the LJ down, it rides pretty well on the 5100's... I suspect you would like them with your normally loaded weight and perhaps slightly softer spring rates than I have with my OE springs.

FWIW, I'm running the Nth rear spring relocators, a stock height LJ rear spring, and a set of ZJ front springs with an extra isolator. I think I have about 1.5-2" of actual suspension lift, no jounce spacers, and full travel with the OME or XJ 5100 shocks. I added a Nth tummy tucker and a 3/4" body lift and 1" MML. That lets me run 255/85R16's on wheels that mimic TJ Rubicon geometry and get very little rubbing. If I limited jounce travel by about half and inch on the front I could probably get rid of all rubbing, but I don't mind and it gives me an indication that I'm maxed out...

Fox valving is nice and soft but their length options really limit droop travel unless you have 4" or more lift. Most other lift shocks are valved for super soft springs, which makes them feel stiff on something with closer to proper spring rates...

I am wanting to try a set of Doetsch shocks... I ran a set on my old chevy and was very happy with the valving but that was decades ago...

If you're in the wild wild southwest, PM me. You're welcome to try the OME's I have laying around, or if you're up for it, you can yank the 5100's off my TJ and try those.
 

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