Ship's Log August 8
Ship’s Log, August 8, 2006
I hope that everyone received and enjoyed the notes we sent out during the trips from Fort Lauderdale to Bermuda and then on to Flores, the Azores. One final comment if I can be so indulged (and this whole writing of logs is an indulgence--your reading it is just icing). One has many freedoms at sea and a successful passage always has to do with how well you align yourself with nature, with the way things are in the world. We had a question which had not come up in our north-south journeys, since as we moved east the sun was setting earlier every day (Bermuda to the Azores is 3 time zones): Do we run our lives by the sun or by the clock? Our contact with the outside world is minimal and no one else cares what time we think it is. The sun’s schedule works with our watch/eating/sleep schedule. So we set it by our needs and choose not to change “clock� time. Period, end of story. Nothing else matters. Very cool.
We arrived in Lajes, Flores, the westernmost part of Europe, at night and anchored under some 300-400 foot cliffs. The wind was calm in the harbor although the swell kept us rolling and the noise coming from the nocturnal sea birds, primarily shearwaters, was impressive: a mixture of an energetic kid with big lungs blowing hard on a kazoo and an angry bee hive. Wild and disorienting after 2 weeks at sea. We must be getting more experienced as there was relief in arrival and from all the little worries, work, decisions and doubt attendant while at sea, but there was not the, “Oh, my god we did it and are safe again,� flood of feeling we have bumped into in the past.
After a good night’s sleep we somewhat reluctantly embraced another world by resetting our clocks 3 hours ahead to synchronize with customs and immigration, restaurant openings, coordinating with taxis and the multitude of other interfaces that just go more easily when everybody is abiding by the same guidelines.
Flores is unbelievable visually; my words will not come close to doing it justice. Think of a mix of Switzerland and New Zealand (especially Hobbit country) packaged on an island maybe 18 by 10 miles in size. The island is surrounded by 400-500 foot cliffs, and most villages perch on the upland areas. Throw in abundant flowers (“flores�) both grown and wild; intricately terraced fields and pastures demarcated with black volcanic stone walls and brilliant blue hydrangeas and wild red roses; the occasional lush terraced valley stretching to the sea ringed by an amphitheater of 400 foot cliffs graced by 10-12 waterfalls of various sizes; working water-powered mills grinding corn; hardly an edifice that looks less than 100 years old and all of black or whitewashed volcanic stone with red tile roofs; lagoons in the misty volcanic calderas; all topped off by vistas of ocean on all sides. Easily the prettiest island we have ever visited.
Flores, like all the islands in the Azores, was settled by the Portuguese in the 15th century and has a long history of industriousness evidenced in particular by the miles upon miles of stone fences from clearing this volcanic land. Dairy products (and wine on some of the other islands) have long been the major source of income, and the land is intensely cultivated. The population of Flores is around 4,000 (down from a high of 10,000 a hundred years ago—many have emigrated), and about 2,000 visitors a year come primarily during July and August. It is very nice to be in a place which attends to infrastructure. Caribbean countries are wonderful in many ways but too often are in the process of being either poorly taken care of and/or pillaged. What a joy to see things looking so well cared for, particularly in a region that is clearly not wealthy. More recently we were told that being a developing part of the European Union has made money available for upgrades of various kinds.
There were maybe a half dozen hikes that were well marked around Flores, and boundless capacity for tramping about. (One contrast to the US is striking--the absence of “NO TRESPASSING� signs.) We did one substantial hike of 4-5 hours along the coast where no roads existed. This took us on an old cobblestone path up from a tiny village at sea level, traversing the cliffs on the NW edge into the clouds at maybe 1,000 feet, and then across high cattle pastures punctuated with ravines and gullies sculpted magnificently over long periods of time by volcanic and erosive elements. Flowering hydrangeas were everywhere. Simply breathtaking. After 4 hours we were at the lighthouse at the N end for a pre-arranged pick up to take our at-sea-atrophied sore and tired legs back home.
Horta on the island of Faial was our next stop and is one of the most famous pit stops for sailing boats in the North Atlantic. Alchemy relished a fresh water wash as we were at a marina for the first time in over 2 months. From our berth we see the lovely town nestled in a valley with hills and cliffs around, while 6 miles away Pico (a magnificently formed volcano) perches majestically on the neighboring island appropriately named Pico.
We had a hectic 2 weeks of socializing, hiking and touristing (there are many boats here going in all directions). There is a Horta tradition of painting your vessel’s name with some sort of picture/symbol on the wall or wharf prior to departure. We procrastinated but finally figured out what to do and executed it. There are literally thousands, some of the most famous names in sailing, and clearly many with artistic talent, but most were just like Alchemy, leaving a simple mark on the world as she passes by.
If there was ever a temptation to feel like we are now pretty salty that inclination has met with some serious reality testing here in the Azores. Of the boats we have become friendly with since arriving in the Azores two stand out. Eric on Fiona has 250,000 miles on his boat and is headed for his second trip to Antarctica with the aplomb many would have returning to the hardware store for a forgotten item. He merely plans a circumnavigation of South America this year before returning to NY. Swn Y Mor has 170,000 miles under her keel (in 30 years of cruising life after 20 years as an active St. David’s, Ireland, lifeboat) for her family of 3 and is headed to Greece. These are some salty boats and Alchemy is not in Kansas anymore. We are also in territory where the American flag does not predominate among the cruising boats. Makes for a different feel.
We have visited 7 of the 9 Azorean islands so far (Flores, Corvo, Faial, Pico, Sao Jorge, Graciosa and Terceira) with our eyes on the last 2 when we head farther east. In many ways the islands are similar (all have magical and wonderful volcanic calderas—the most recent dates from 1973— to remind you of the swiftness and violence with which changes can occur). I will let the descriptions of Flores stand for all and urge you to visit the web site for pictures. Each is also unique and we have seen cheese making, wineries, weaving (on double looms), caverns with sulphurous mud bubbling up, bull “fighting� (no damage done), religious festivals, and fun week long “gastronomic� and entertainment carnivals.
I could write a great deal about our meanderings on the islands, the challenging anchorages, the great hikes, the food, but the people provide the unifying elements by being just very wonderful. Extremely nice and helpful and proud of the Azores and of their individual island while being clear that you and your visit are in no way crucial in their or their island’s life. That frees everyone up to just be comfortable.
One example may also give a feel to how the island people (and government in the small community sense) take care of themselves which I hope captures a bit of their specialness. These islands are volcanic with steep, jagged rocky shores and few beaches. Interspersed regularly around the perimeter of the islands are natural swimming holes in locations where there is some protection from the relentless pounding of the ocean swell, usually a rocky outcropping of some sort, and made accessible by concrete paths and sturdy ladders. Often there are different levels of adventurousness on the same outcropping, including deep areas for jumping or diving from altitude. The protected pools for little ones are made out of the naturally occurring lava augmented by concrete dams where necessary with sea water regularly flowing in. As if this was not enough, clean changing areas and bathrooms with fresh water showers are often ready at hand. One might think this was for the tourists but this is not the case. There are too few tourists for one thing and where we have joined in we have been the only tourists amid good crowds of locals.
As I read this over I am struck by its feel of spottiness and I become aware of how much more I could write about our experiences here. It is like taking a flashlight into a dark room, shining it somewhere, and writing what you see. A lot gets left out and it does not feel cohesive.
We have decided to spend the winter in Lagos, Portugal and plan to leave the Azores in time to be there by mid Sept.
We wish you all well.
Love, ******** and Ginger
In a truck???? 