Alternator wire?

toyrunner95

Explorer
I am running a 22r in my 84 toyota. I am trying to connect my Alternator to the dual battery switch so that it will charge both batteries at once. I have a couple problems though.

1. If i trace the wire from the alt, it ends up in a harness, if i follow the harness it ends up as a bare wire the connects to the positive battery terminal. I suspect this is the charging line. How would i go about getting it out of the loom to re connect it? It wont be long enough as is.

2. I can't find a post on the alt that the lead comes from. It looks like it comes out of a plug? Any ideas?

3. If this works, then that means that the charge from the alt will end up at the ACC post on my battery switch. Will that charge both batteries even if its on 1 or 2? Or will it just charge when it is on both?

4. If i find a post on the alt, should i just run a wire the the second battery or the switch? then it would always charge both but im agraid it will burn out the alternator.

arrug!!! I have looked in Chiltons and Haynes and they both are pretty much mechanical guides.
 

rambrush

Adventurer
I am glad I bought the Hellroaring kit so I did not have to touch the factory wiring.
I would also suggest jumping over to Tundra solutions forum and seeing if there is help there.
 

Don-Key

New member
This is gonna be a pain in the ********, but its the best and only way I know how to get this over to you. I hope it helps

I would print each one and connect them all together. Complete engine wiring harness diagram

This is a 1984 toyota 4wd 22R (the dotted lines are seperations between pages -------)

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Don-Key

New member
Everything is posted in numerical order, the first 5 from left to right top of diagram. The second 5 (the small ones) are bottom row of diagram from left to right.
 

toyrunner95

Explorer
Hey thanks alot, once i figure out how to read it i think it will help.

I did some digging around at a couple places i know and i found that alot of the systems in the truck run directly off the alternator. The plug is simply a way to split the systems directly. So i cant wire directly off the alt. BUT i may be able to charge the system even if i leave the switch is on both. If i connect the alt to the acc post on the switch, then it will charge both batteries when the switch is set to both. If i leave it where it and set it to both it will charge both. Should i just levae it?
 

Don-Key

New member
I am really not certain on how your battery configuration is set up. Are they side by side or one in a differant area of the other. I have done dual batterys and have just ran them in parallel.

My toyota has quite abit of electrical drain with all the crap I have on it between lights, stereo electric fan etc etc.
 

toyrunner95

Explorer
Well its a 22r, so i have a battery behind each headlight. I have a switch on the passanger side of the truck. All i really did was run positive leds to the switch. Its a marine switch so it has options for off, 1,2, and both. The both post runs both batterys so when im winching i use both batteries. The starter is connected to the both post as well. So the truck wont start if the switch is turned to off. Thats more for security. I dont have a radio and all of my accessories run off the accessories run off a fuse block connected to the both post.

My Alternator is still connected to battery 1. So i was trying to figure out how to get both batteries to charge. As it is now if the switch is set to both it will charge both batteries. I think i will just leave it, for now. I need an isolator because if i leave the switch on both one battery will drain into the other. I think one battery is bad anyway so we will see what happens. I checked it today and it said 4volts. So i got alot of things i need to do.
 

toyrunner95

Explorer
How well does the hell roaring system work? Does it charge both batteries at once? Can i select individual batteries? How do i do that?
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
IF you are using the common marine type battery combiner switch the simplest, easiest way to do want you want to do is to switch the negatives from the batteries to ground. I did this on my '91 Suburban 2+ years ago.

Run a battery cable between each positive post. Bring both ground cables to the switch and switch the neg's to a ground cable rather than switching the plus'. Leave the stock alt wire alone. Works a charm.

This also means that when combined both batteries have the same ground point, which means that they can't start the self-discharge cycle since there is no difference in resistance between the grounds. Left to sit over a period of time with even a tiny resistance between the grounds will start the downward spiral of self-discharge.
 

madizell

Explorer
toyrunner95 said:
1. If i trace the wire from the alt, it ends up in a harness, if i follow the harness it ends up as a bare wire the connects to the positive battery terminal. I suspect this is the charging line.

Just so you know, it is normal and desirable that the output of the alternator feeds into the middle of the harness. One of the positive wires, from the regulator, picks up power from the output line and regulates output of the alternator according to the relative power demand sensed where the wires meet. If the meeting point is too close to alternator and battery, the load on the system from various accessories and lights will not register, and the system voltage will suffer (essentially it will read the battery but not the system load). The regulator line should connect to the output at or near the main junction of the harness, approximately at the firewall or fuse block. Don't try to overcome this seemingly convoluted arrangement. It is done on purpose. Tap the output at or near the positive battery post and let the alternator regulator do what it needs to do.
 

RoundOut

Explorer
How big (amps out) is your alternator? In my Tundra, the towing package from the factory puts a 130 amp alternator under the hood. I suspect the vehicle you have would have a smaller alternator, but should still probably charge two batteries if controlled properly. It is expensive, but the National Luna "split charger" kit sold by Sierra Expeditions or Equipt has the ability to charge the secondary only after the primary is recharged totally. I am not sure whether the Hellroaring kit does that or not, but for lower amp alternators, this may be a feature you will want to consider.

I don't have the split charger kit, but wish I did. I have to manually charge my auxilliary, using the Painless Products dual battery kit I bought. I wish I had done more research up front on this, as I pretty much wasted a bunch of money on a solenoid and weatherproof switch. The National Luna kit comes with lots of heavy gauge cable (very expensive alone) and connectors too. I had to buy most of that outside, probably adding up to the same value as the NL kit.

.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Given that the marine switch is already in your possession I do not see any reason to buy more expensive stuff if the switch will meet the needs. As I stated, I have the negative cables switched on the Suburban, and that works just fine without disrupting the vehicle's wiring. The only likely problem with the battery switch (any switch!) is the operator forgetting to switch it.

On the FJ60 I want to try one of the "Voltage Sensing Relays" and see how they work. From the mfg's page:
"The Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR) allows two batteries to be charged at the same time. When the engine is started and the start battery reaches 13.7 volts, the VSR engages, allowing two battery banks (start and house) to be charged simultaneously. When the voltage drops below 12.8 volts (eg the engine is stopped), the VSR disengages, separating the batteries. This system eliminates the possibility of draining the start battery and protects sensitive electronic equipment powered from the house battery from harmful engine start up spikes."
I bought mine from Del City Wire for $76.00


BTW, the answer to question #3 is that to charge both batteries the switch has to be set to "Both". Otherwise it will only charge the battery that the switch is set to.

And just in case, you can switch while the vehicle is running, but you can NEVER switch through the "Off" position! Always rotate from 1 to 2 or 2 to 1 through the "both" position.
 

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